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2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Help with 327 build.
Hello folks, been researching/reading on building my 327. I would like to keep it a ~327, use the bottom, ie block, crank, rods, maybe pistons.
I have already bought AFR 195 heads, have a older performer dual plane intake with oil fill and a holly 650 and want to use 2.5 inch rams horn ported to Fel-Pro Exhaust Header Gasket Set 1405.
I’m think on using Comp Cams CL12-677-4 Mechanical flat tappet.
I live in a area with minimal city driving and love the sound of a high revving 327. I’m thinking my useful rpm range at 2,000-6,400 rpm.
The only engine I have built is a GMC 270, am I out to lunch with my 327?
There are some facts we have to face. Any kid can put a down payment on a new hi performance car. Old ladies drive 500hp sedans. My and your C2 ain't going to keep up unless you build a race car. When is the last time you went out and nobody noticed your C2? The point is we have nothing to prove, you are driving the coolest car ever built. (build a 327/365, with the money you save you can buy an expensive wooden steering wheel or something.)
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
So what is your question? You want someone to walk you through a sbc rebuild? Too many good books in print for that. If you can't make the effort to read some reference material then you are the hands of internet gossip and hearsay.
Unless it’s a “numbers” car there is no reason to build a 327 other than nostalgia. The basic cost of rebuilding an engine from 283 to 383 is basically the same. Now having said that the biggest factor is cylinder bore taper and piston wear/condition. If they are acceptable hone ring and bearings with maybe a crank polish will be cheapest. If you gotta buy pistons and bore than go bigger and newer. JMHO
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I did know if resizing the rods would be acquitted for a street car. I haven't removed the rods yet, but it is a 1965 3858174 block with pad F0203HE. I was under the impression they had good rods. Cylinders look good with no ridge but haven't taken good measurements at this point
In my research I have seen some really nice 327,s with AFR 195's producing very nice power and would like to go that way. The 327 is what it came with, nostalgia.
I like the looks of 327 top swap
At this point I guess I'm having difficulty picking the appropriate cam.
That cam is a bit much for a street driven car with a small motor like a 327. If you have tall rear end gears (3.90+) it won't be too bad, but otherwise, kinda doggy off the line. If the crank and rods will fit in that block you can make a 350 out of it at least; not sure about a 383.
Nothing wrong with reusing the block and keeping it simple. Just consider a different cam. Chevy LT1 seems to be a well regarded option for this size motor and it does indeed rev.
Trying to keep it simple. Small journal crank. Thought I could have it blue printed and reuse.
You can keep it simple and cheap and still meet the criteria you laid out in your first post.
To keep it simple and (relatively) cheap, use a factory cam grind. I'd use the Duntov 097 or the .30-30 cam. They both fit the top end of your rpm range but you'll have to move the bottom rpm up to 2800 at least before they lay you back in the seat. Either cam doesn't require any fancy springs, rockers, machining or any extra $$$$$$ for compatible parts or machine work. Reliability is great. Maybe not so with after market?
Here is a link to a thread that talks about rod strength. No need to argue about it. Read the link and make your choice. If your engine hasn't been apart, it has the leas desirable rods.
The stock 327/365 is a great mechanical flat tappet engine, stay close to those specs and you can't go wrong. It was in my first C2 and had the best sound of them all. I have owned just about all the C2 engines except the tri-power 427s, my favorite engine is the 327/350.
Unless it’s a “numbers” car there is no reason to build a 327 other than nostalgia.
I would respectfully disagree....although freely admit, I am probably in the minority. I have no love for "numbers matching" but I do love the driving characteristics of a solid lifter 327. Given the constraints of the factory chassis, and narrow tires, I really like the high winding almost European driving characteristics of the 327. I thoroughly enjoy driving around with the pedal mashed to the firewall regularly....a feat hard to replicate with the torque provided by a 383 build without blowing the tires off. Anyway, not looking to argue, just providing a counter point. Good luck with the rebuild. If it were my money, I would build the stoutest, angriest 327 I could get away with on pump gas.
the short stroke 327 will rev out of this world, use a cam that will utilize the higher revs, if you are just going to low rpm cruise, then go for displacement. to get you the best low end torque.
I have a 68 HT 327-350 with 2.02 heads sitting in my garage.. can't wait for something to put it in .. maybe a 66 chevy II
For your 327 the heads are a bit large. In running Brodix IK180s with an LT1 cam and intake, stock holley 585cfm carb. Stock pop-up style speed pro pistons L2166, getting hard to find but Northern Auto still has a few available. For rods I'm running Crower Sportsman. There are several motors with this combination here, heads may differ, several have ported stock heads and they run to 7k RPM no problem and put out 300 hp at the rear wheel.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Jan 19, 2021 at 10:07 PM.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by 66rdstr
That is good information Mike so now I need rods and pistons, more research. Hope the crank is sufficient.
Hey can I have those terrible small journal rods now that you don't need them. I'd like to build a budget offset stroker with them. Ahhh! Superstition gonna make this a great build for someone.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
I would respectfully disagree....although freely admit, I am probably in the minority. I have no love for "numbers matching" but I do love the driving characteristics of a solid lifter 327. Given the constraints of the factory chassis, and narrow tires, I really like the high winding almost European driving characteristics of the 327. I thoroughly enjoy driving around with the pedal mashed to the firewall regularly....a feat hard to replicate with the torque provided by a 383 build without blowing the tires off. Anyway, not looking to argue, just providing a counter point. Good luck with the rebuild. If it were my money, I would build the stoutest, angriest 327 I could get away with on pump gas.
Cheers!
basically my sentiment as well but want it to look OEMish. Almost went with the Trick Flow double hump heads but the AFR 195 seem to have so much more potential so I made a compromise on the OEM look.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Also, the people I bought the AFR 1034 is in stock, with hydraulic roller springs, the 1034 would have to be built with the flat tappet springs which takes about 4 weeks. So I would like some opinion on the proper cam. I guess I'm not opposed with using a hydraulic roller cam unless there is a good reason not to.
basically my sentiment as well but want it to look OEMish. Almost went with the Trick Flow double hump heads but the AFR 195 seem to have so much more potential so I made a compromise on the OEM look.
You can order the AFR heads without the logo on them to tone them down a bit