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Let me start by saying I've never run the car on the lift before. So, I don't know if this is a new or preexisting problem.
Just finished replacing the parking break shoes, springs, cables, etc and cleaning the half shafts. I didn't replace any of the the half shaft parts; flanges, u-joints, etc. Pre-teardown I marked both ends of the half shafts and put it back in place as-is (was) during reassembly. Thought I'd try a lift test before street test. Now I have a small tick (wobble) on the right side. I thought maybe I screwed up my marks on the wheel side. So, I rotated the wheel flange 90* at a time 4 times. 90* x 4 = 360* ? In all cases I still had the "tick". Video below. Nothing in the AIM cave drawings on this one.
First of all as has often been said here you never run the rear axles at full extension. It puts the U-joinss at extreme angles and you might well hear strange sounds. You may have munged up a needle bearing or worse. I don't even let them hang when I tighten them onto the differential stub yokes.
I cringed while watching your video
(vettsplit_63 beat me to it)..
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Feb 23, 2021 at 07:25 AM.
Damn! I woke up this morning thinking that the axle hanging like that might be the problem. And, I should put a floor jack under the leaf and get it up a bit. Funny the left side didn't have this problem. Make the 2 floor jacks.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Oh dear!
Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
First of all as has often been said here you never run the rear axles at full extension. It puts the U-joinss at extreme angles and you might well hear strange sounds. You may have munged up a needle bearing or worse. I don't even let them hang when I tighten them onto the differential stub yokes.
I cringed while watching your video
(vettsplit_63 beat me to it)..
Curious what the damage will be. Never heard of a "lift test".
Curious what the damage will be. Never heard of a "lift test".
You can do a suspended test but the trailing arms have to be supported to reduce the angle at which the half shafts operate and safety is a concern - you have to be VERY careful. Its a bit easier with drum brakes.
The C2 "three link" rear suspension is a bit delicate in some regards.
Even without running the car, with the half shafts extended completely you can turn them by hand and feel and hear the "clunking" of the U-joints as they transition through their rotation. Then you'll see how damage running the car like this can happen.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Feb 23, 2021 at 07:52 AM.
You can also put a steel shim of some sort between the lower side of the trailing arm and the frame pocket before raising the car up to keep the suspension from dropping (or at least reduce the drop) when the rear of the car is raised if you must rotate the drive train for a test.
You can do a suspended test but the trailing arms have to be supported to reduce the angle at which the half shafts operate and safety is a concern - you have to be VERY careful. Its a bit easier with drum brakes.
The C2 "three link" rear suspension is a bit delicate in some regards.
Even without running the car, with the half shafts extended completely you can turn them by hand and feel and hear the "clunking" of the U-joints as they transition through their rotation. Then you'll see how damage running the car like this can happen.
Damn II. I did feel that slight clunk when I rotated by hand. Didn't think much of it. Live and learn.
.....or, you could put the right length rear shocks on the car and not have that problem.
Center to center for the rear shocks is 14-1/4 inch MAX. Check what you have installed. Having shocks with a longer dimension can also cause issues if you hit a bump or speed-bump in the road and go airborne for a few seconds.
Center to center for the rear shocks is 14-1/4 inch MAX. Check what you have installed. Having shocks with a longer dimension can also cause issues if you hit a bump or speed-bump in the road and go airborne for a few seconds.
Center to center for the rear shocks is 14-1/4 inch MAX. Check what you have installed. Having shocks with a longer dimension can also cause issues if you hit a bump or speed-bump in the road and go airborne for a few seconds.
Larry
Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I still wouldn’t run it with the suspension fully extended.
One last thing, you do not need to index the yokes in the differential or trailing arm side. Once you make a turn, the yokes and half shafts will be at a different position. Jerry
half shaft tick
