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I'm pulling the engine only. I'm leaving the trans/bell housing in the car. I'm concerned about the engine mounts. Will the engine tip up sufficiantly to remove it with the motor mounts still on the block (remember, bell housing stays) or would it be better to leave the mounts on the frame and just slide it fwd? Same for reinstall. Thanks........
While I have never pulled an engine on a C2, I have done so on C3's, and many other Chevy powered vehicles (leaving the trans in). Never had a problem with leaving the mounts on the engine, other than one 70 Z-28 Camaro where it had suffered a frontal hit (large tree) and we had to do some prying to get the mounts lined up properly to get the long bolts (frame to mount bolts) to go back in.
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Re: Engine removal question (MasterDave)
When I pulled my Motor years ago to freshen up and mod it, we just pulled the bolts on the bell housing, pulled the bolts on the motor mounts at the frame and hooked up a "TILT-TA-MA-JIG" thing on the end of the hoist and were able to tilt the motor at any angle we needed to get it out and back in.
Of course, we disconnected all the other stuff you need to dissconect before you pull the motor.
We also had a lot of beer which gave us a much better mechinical abilities and help reduce the pain of skining our knuckels and cutting our hands during the removal and install. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Dave, This is probably stating the obvious, but...if you're pulling the engine only, you have to move it forward quite a bit before it disengages from your 4spd. And, you have to be pretty careful not to "booger" up your pressure plate splines (if you have them) if you have "fingers" on the pressure plate, this may not be as big a deal. Make sure to loosen, or totally remove the bolts in the tranny mount to allow the tranny to tilt up with the engine. I would put a floor jack under the tranny for support, to help guide the input shaft of the tranny straight out of the pressure plate.
I'm not very talented at explaining myself (which is obvious), but you will understand what I'm saying when you get into it. I would hook up the hoist, remove motor mount bolts and tranny mount bolts, tilt the whole mess up, and then remove bellhousing bolts, and slide engine forward to disengage it. All the while having a floor jack under the tranny for support.
I wish I could come over and help!!!! Dad and I just pulled the engine out of his '30 Ford 5 window last weekend. It was fun :thumbs: :thumbs: Good luck. Keep us updated. Brian
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Re: Engine removal question (MasterDave)
Quote*
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your "tilt-a-ma-jig" name came after a 6 pack.
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Actually, after the KEG..................
:cheers:
Hood, radiator assy, manifolds etc are out. Now I gotta sawzall my pipes to make room for the headers!! :cry I got so much money in this exhaust system it just kills me to hack on it. Oh well. Taking the family including the grandkids to Disneyland this sunday so will be away for a week. This is the grandkids' ( ages-8,5,3&1/2 and 1&1/2) first trip to this place so it should be a blast. :D Will get back to the vette next friday. Later....... :chevy
You lucky dog! You'll love the Indy Jones Ride. Heck they're all fun if you're a kid at heart like me. My wife doesn't think I'll ever grow up. Don't plan to neither. Yeah grand kids are great. :yesnod: :lol:
I pulled my engine recently enough to remember that this was not too big a deal. My radiator was still in the car, and it was not big deal for two of us to pull it.
The only thing to be careful of is when you re-install the engine. I have been told that it can be really tough to re-align the splines of the input shaft to the engine, since they are not easily seen as you try to muscle the engine down. I was advised by a few people here to pull the transmission and attach the transmission to the engine on the hoist, then drop the two into the car.
The engine is still on the stand in my garage, and the transmission is on my creeper, so I can't say how good this advise was... :D
If you have a manual trans, you might want to pull both out as an assembly. You might have trouble aligning the input shaft to the clutch disc upon install and could bend the disc.
You should use an engine tilter. I just did my 61 and installed the engine/trans as one.
See pics. http://temp.corvetteforum.net/classi...de/Page2.shtml
About a half hour south of Anaheim is Legoland (in Carlsbad), which is a great place for kids that age. Lines are shorter and there are more activities aimed at the 8 and under set. It's my 6-year old son's favorite place. If you have the time, check it out. :yesnod:
hey dave when i did my motor 427 I seperated the trans from bellhousing and slid the trans back.I did not see how they could come out as one unit because the trans cross member is a fixed unit. i dont remeber if the advice I had recived was from here or the ncrs board I was afraid or damaging the fiberglass.
I'm concerned about the engine mounts. Will the engine tip up sufficiantly to remove it with the motor mounts still on the block (remember, bell housing stays) or would it be better to leave the mounts on the frame and just slide it fwd?
when I did mine the motor mounts split with one bolt half stayed on the frame and half on the motor.With the trans slid back we just raised it about
1 1/2" and it came right up and out.(I had allreadt pulled the distributor )
Take the trans bolts out. Buy two bolts about 2-3 in longer than those bolts. Cut the heads off and screw them in the bellhousing. This will provide a 'slide' that protects the clutch/pressure plate as the trans slides out of the bellhousing. It also makes putting the engine in MUCH easier as you can see just how much to tillt the motor to get it aligned correctly.
Much easier removing the engine, bellhousing and trans as a complete unit. You will need to take the radiator out and disconnect the exhaust at the heads. Use a floor jack to get under the trans and set your chain and cherry picker so that the engine and trans assembly will drop to the rear when hanging in mid air. DRAIN ALL FLUIDS from the block as a big mess will occur even when empty.
Have two friends help. One on the jack, one on the engine. You work the cherry picker. I have always left motor mounts in the car. But your choice.Just take your time and watch the paint. Plenty of fender covers for sure.
We use to pull the whole assemble in 1/2 hour with a little practice.
The neat thing is all clutch and transwork and alignment can be done BEFORE you replace the whole assembly back in the car. Replacement should take about another 1/2 hour. But the hook up of accessories, exhaust fuel lines etc. will take lots more time.
Good luck. A feeling of real accomplishment will glow over you when done.
Jim
I have to agree with Jim,
"Much easier removing the engine, bellhousing and trans as a complete unit."
I have pulled and replaced many SBs in many vehicles. Anytime we ever screwed around with trying to leave the tranny in it was a major PITA. Now, I always pull the engine and tranny together. With a tilt bar on the cherry picker it is a piece of cake.
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