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I’ve got a 62 that has the bellhousing that the starter bolts to. What bellhousing do I need to go to so I can bolt a starter to the block,also my car is a manual transmission.
First of all, ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL 55-62 Corvettes used a bell housing that had the starter bolted to it.
Second of all, if it has a bell housing-------------------THEN IT WOULD ONLY HAVE A MANUAL TRANSMISSION.
Last, if you want to use a starter that bolts to the block--------------------------IT IS MANDATORY THAT YOUR BLOCK HAS THE THREADED HOLES FOR A BLOCK MOUNTED STARTER! As below.
Since your car is a 62, with a starter bolted to the bell housing------------------------THAT MEANS IT HAS THE LARGER, 14IN DIAMETER, 168 TEETH FLYWHEEL.
To use a block mounted starter with that flywheel---------------------IT MUST BE ONE WITH A STAGGERED BOLT PATTERN (as above) AND A CAST IRON NOSE. If a starter with a staggered bolt pattern and an ALUM nose is used, the alum nose is to fat to fit into the starter bulge of the bell housing (cast iron noses are smaller).
Now, with all that said, what if wrong with your starter that bolts to the bell housing?
First of all, ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL 55-62 Corvettes used a bell housing that had the starter bolted to it.
Second of all, if it has a bell housing-------------------THEN IT WOULD ONLY HAVE A MANUAL TRANSMISSION.
Last, if you want to use a starter that bolts to the block--------------------------IT IS MANDATORY THAT YOUR BLOCK HAS THE THREADED HOLES FOR A BLOCK MOUNTED STARTER! As below.
Since your car is a 62, with a starter bolted to the bell housing------------------------THAT MEANS IT HAS THE LARGER, 14IN DIAMETER, 168 TEETH FLYWHEEL.
To use a block mounted starter with that flywheel---------------------IT MUST BE ONE WITH A STAGGERED BOLT PATTERN (as above) AND A CAST IRON NOSE. If a starter with a staggered bolt pattern and an ALUM nose is used, the alum nose is to fat to fit into the starter bulge of the bell housing (cast iron noses are smaller).
Now, with all that said, what if wrong with your starter that bolts to the bell housing?
it’s a 65 motor and I’m having a lot of issues with hot starting problems. I suppose I could put a solenoid on it like Ford does but I really don’t want to unless I have to. I’ve been looking at some 383s. Not sure what I’ll end up doing.
DZ the washer and large nut are done in what must be true REDNECK STYLE. Did you learn that from Reba??
Once in a while I am confused with the OP problem. The first thing I would do would be a tune up and check (retard) the timing if not correct. Points also can cause timing variation. I am confused as to how the starter mounting will resolve the problem, but I am wrong quite often according to my wife.
DZ the washer and large nut are done in what must be true REDNECK STYLE. Did you learn that from Reba??
Once in a while I am confused with the OP problem. The first thing I would do would be a tune up and check (retard) the timing if not correct. Points also can cause timing variation. I am confused as to how the starter mounting will resolve the problem, but I am wrong quite often according to my wife.
well I thought maybe I could change the starter but my choices on that are limited. 2 the car is tuned 9btdc shouldn’t be a problem 3 I’m thinking about an engine swap in the future and just wondering what bell housing I should go with.
Wasn't trying to harass you, just needed more info as to why.
OK, hot start is generally flooding or timing. So, when you try to start it, does it spin normally or spin like you have a low battery? Does it fire at all or just crank?
Has this just started? A bad starter will draw excessive current and drag, especially when hot. I would set the timing at factory specs and the point dwell at 30 (if you have points) and then try it again. Keep in mind, on these old cars, the harmonic dampener or timing chain cover may have be changed and the timing marks are wrong. You might want to find TDC with a piston stop to verify your starting point.
DZ is a much better source than I am, so I will quit jumping in.
DZ the washer and large nut are done in what must be true REDNECK STYLE. Did you learn that from Reba??
Once in a while I am confused with the OP problem. The first thing I would do would be a tune up and check (retard) the timing if not correct. Points also can cause timing variation. I am confused as to how the starter mounting will resolve the problem, but I am wrong quite often according to my wife.
That is NOT, repeat, NOT my engine/starter (I have several CORRECT starter bolts in the 3 different lengths). I just picked up those pictures from another site. I copied them because I do not have any good pictures of straight/staggered bolt patterns on a block.
well I thought maybe I could change the starter but my choices on that are limited. 2 the car is tuned 9btdc shouldn’t be a problem 3 I’m thinking about an engine swap in the future and just wondering what bell housing I should go with.
My all time favorite bell housing for a Chevy V8 is an open bottom housing (preferably aluminum). Also, I prefer the larger 168 teeth flywheel vs the smaller 153 teeth flywheel.because I prefer to have an 11in clutch.
All open bottom housings were made for a housing mounted starter. But, as long as the block has the needed holes, a block mounted starter can be used with an open bottom housing.
ALLLLLLLLLLL 55-59 Corvettes had a cast iron bell housing. Then the 60-62 Corvettes had an alum open bottom housing. The ONLY housing that can be used on the 55-62 Corvettes is the 55-59 open bottom cast iron or the 60-62 open bottom alum housing. The specific reason is because there is a boss on the left side of these housings with 2 threaded holes. This IS REQUIRED for attachment of the bracket for the clutch linkage cross shaft (Z-bar). NO OTHER BELL HOUSINGS HAVE THIS BOSS WITH THE 2 THREADED HOLES. a 60-70 CAST IRON OPEN BOTTOM HOUSING WILL NOT work because 59 was the last year fot those 2 threaded holes on a cast iron housing.
Wasn't trying to harass you, just needed more info as to why.
OK, hot start is generally flooding or timing. So, when you try to start it, does it spin normally or spin like you have a low battery? Does it fire at all or just crank?
Has this just started? A bad starter will draw excessive current and drag, especially when hot. I would set the timing at factory specs and the point dwell at 30 (if you have points) and then try it again. Keep in mind, on these old cars, the harmonic dampener or timing chain cover may have be changed and the timing marks are wrong. You might want to find TDC with a piston stop to verify your starting point.
DZ is a much better source than I am, so I will quit jumping in.
when it gets hot it sounds like a drag when it cools down a bit it will start almost like a flooded engine you have to hold throttle down. The starter has been replaced with a new deacon starter and solenoid. I’m not sure if the gas is percolating or the starter. I just put a 1/4 in phenolic spacer on I’m going to run it til it gets up to temp and see if that helps. I did lower the fuel level ever so slightly in bowls. I’m probably sometime down the road and I don’t want my starter bolting to the bellhousing that’s what I was asking about the bh
My all time favorite bell housing for a Chevy V8 is an open bottom housing (preferably aluminum). Also, I prefer the larger 168 teeth flywheel vs the smaller 153 teeth flywheel.because I prefer to have an 11in clutch.
All open bottom housings were made for a housing mounted starter. But, as long as the block has the needed holes, a block mounted starter can be used with an open bottom housing.
ALLLLLLLLLLL 55-59 Corvettes had a cast iron bell housing. Then the 60-62 Corvettes had an alum open bottom housing. The ONLY housing that can be used on the 55-62 Corvettes is the 55-59 open bottom cast iron or the 60-62 open bottom alum housing. The specific reason is because there is a boss on the left side of these housings with 2 threaded holes. This IS REQUIRED for attachment of the bracket for the clutch linkage cross shaft (Z-bar). NO OTHER BELL HOUSINGS HAVE THIS BOSS WITH THE 2 THREADED HOLES. a 60-70 CAST IRON OPEN BOTTOM HOUSING WILL NOT work because 59 was the last year fot those 2 threaded holes on a cast iron housing.
Ok so after I put the spacer on I ran it at idle for about 20 min let set for 15 min went back out and it fired right up. I’ll run longer in the morning maybe this crappy gas was my problem.
Bellhousing
