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Do a search here. Lots of threads on what to look for. Highly recommend hiring a C2 expert to inspect the purchase (threads on finding those people here as well). Lots of one year only parts in a 63. If you don't care about originality maybe that's not a big deal, but the price should reflect that. Take lots of pictures and post them here. You'll get some feedback.
From: Edmonds Washington (Stunning view of Olympic Mtns and Puget Sound)
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Nothing mechanical about that vehicle is correct and d/s hood fitment concerning. Check bond strips underside of front wheel wells for prior body damage. Check inner birdcage structure and under glove box for rust. Be very cautious...........what I see are many red flags.
The far side (passenger side) headlight and hood gaps look really odd. I wonder if that car took a whack to the nose? There may be a reason that this car is 20-40k cheaper than all of other 63s for sale on the same site.
Pretty car, don't get me wrong, but the nose appears (to my untrained eye) to have gap issues.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by Redbird
Pull up the photos on the C2 Corvette Registry #00732 and let me know what stands out.
You'll help your buddy out far better if you post a link to many current, large photos, as seen in seller's adverts.
Biggest single piece of advise, but most often unheeded? Hire a professional classic Corvette inspector/appraiser. While costly, these types can save a buyer tens of thousands of dollars due to overpriced classic Corvettes not being correct, missing correct $$$$$ parts, having prior hidden damage, having a hidden but rotted frame or worse yet, a hidden but rotten birdcage ($$$$).
The last I saw, split window bright trim runs about $2,500 a set or more. Parts add up quickly on these cars, and an early VIN '63 SWC has tons of hard to find and replace parts.
Just because someone has a '63 SWC priced at the low end of the price range does not mean that it's automatically a good deal. It may be, but it could also be an overpriced disaster that a seller is hoping to foist off on an unknowledgeable buyer.
First off the Trim tag shows 898A which is Saddle tan leather, paint 932A also Saddle Tan. Master cylinder is not 63 , more like 67. Radio is not original. Shifter looks like a Hurst, not original
You have received some great advice in the responses. I would add find a qualified 1963 inspector and have them perform an inspection. It will be money well spent.
From: Edmonds Washington (Stunning view of Olympic Mtns and Puget Sound)
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
There is virtually nothing original regarding engine bay...........but maybe that is not a concern for potential buyer if all he is looking for is a driver. Still would advise to have it inspected by knowledgeable person.Good luck. begee22
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by begee22
There is virtually nothing original regarding engine bay...........but maybe that is not a concern for potential buyer if all he is looking for is a driver. Still would advise to have it inspected by knowledgeable person.Good luck. begee22
I'm no expert on '63s, but that tach does not appear to match the intake manifold on that engine as well. Looks like it should be a 340HP engine (at least) under that hood, which is not correct for that cast intake.
Last edited by Easy Rhino; Apr 30, 2021 at 08:24 PM.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C2 of Year Finalist (stock)
2016 C2 of Year Finalist
Okay guys. Thanks for the clues. Here is what we found in a nutshell. Power went out before we got there due to storm. It has an 870 block with what appears to be K278 cast date. Nothing on pad. No double hump heads. No ign shielding. Carb aftermarket w/ elec choke. Not sure what HEI distributor is from. Appears rear main seal leaking, but could be valve covers. Trans missing vin stamping, can't read number on posi. All u-joint appear good. Spin on oil filter. No AC on fuel pump. Fan replaced with electric fan. Alternator from Mexico. Whole front clip replaced. Fiberglass repair to jack tubs on both sides of driveshaft - appears u-joint let loose, no rust on frame rails or kick-ups. rear shock bushings a little shot. Rear nubbers in place, leaf spring donuts old. Center exhaust ground straps missing. Power antenna not correct. Gas tank looks newer. Gas lid is correct. No spare tire, but tub in great shape. No lock on spare. Battery tray looks good, but moved to passenger side. Looks like newer power steering and pitman arm. All tie rod end replaced. Power disk brakes on front added, new radiator. Mix & match on hose clamps. Wrong cap on expansion tank. Oil looked clean. Rag joint looked good and no play. Trailing arms had aftermarket shims. Could't see TA bushings. Power brakes booster & dual MC appear aftermarket. Wiper blades should be replaced w/originals. Originally Saddle tan/saddle tan per trim tag. Starting to scratch after market WS on passenger side. All other glass dated correctly. Vent windows open/close with no effort. PS glass up/down good. DS window has a hitch about half way down. Door locks have been flip-flopped, but could be changed. Door mirror is correct and dated. Same mirror on PS, but could not see date. Ext door handles work good & have raised area. W/Washers missing and switch should be replace or rebuilt. H/L flip up and down. Dash warning light for headlights and parking brake does not working. Glove box light missing. Aftermarket headlamps. PS courtesy light moved to center console area due to AC ductwork. DS vent pull handle & cable missing. Car has working Vintage A/C. All gauges appear to work. Has a Hurst shifter. Never got to drive vehicle due to heavy rain storm. Engine fired right up and sounded good. No lifter noise or knocking. A couple rivets missing on PS door jam. Seats were correct and adjusters worked fine. Not sure what kind of scissor jack it was, but not correct. Carpeting average. Appears new dashpads. Door fitment was pretty good. DS drip W/S missing. Could not tell if H/L buckets were fiberglass. Magnet would not stick to them. All interior molding was present. Cookie sheets on hood were loose. Hood fitment a little high on DS. Aftermarket knockoffs look new and appear to be bolt-on wheels. Unable to pop off the center cup with a suction cup. That is it. How did I do? I guesstimated around $70k. Up to my buddy and the owner now. It will be a driver.
Last edited by Redbird; May 1, 2021 at 12:51 AM.
Reason: Color change