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Pat your cluster is the right one. Original switches had a special tab to lock in place with the escutcheon. In the harness was a special flat lamp bracket held with a screw, as yours is set up for. The lamp illuminates the key slot for better aim at night.
My 63 coupe had a aftermarket switch too. It has a threaded backup nut to keep tight. It would loosen on occasion so I got a original switch and reconnected the dangling lamp base.
Ill add photos later.
This is the lamp base. Someone cut this one but it should be part of the harness.
It mounts in that box next to the switch. This is a Feb built cluster.
Pat your cluster is the right one. Original switches had a special tab to lock in place with the escutcheon. In the harness was a special flat lamp bracket held with a screw, as yours is set up for. The lamp illuminates the key slot for better aim at night.
My 63 coupe had a aftermarket switch too. It has a threaded backup nut to keep tight. It would loosen on occasion so I got a original switch and reconnected the dangling lamp base.
Ill add photos later.
This is the lamp base. Someone cut this one but it should be part of the harness.
It mounts in that box next to the switch. This is a Feb built cluster.
Rich
Thanks Rich!
I did hook up the light with the new wire harness.
Pat
Also, the large red wire coming from the switch....is that the one I should add a fuse into?
Ok but I think the lamp may not work with the repro switch. Just thought of that. Glove box already fused(Courtesy lamps fuse). I forget if 63 lighter is fused or not. If not, good idea to add a 15amp for that.
You'd be better to add fusible links like the 67's had instead of a big 30Amp on the Red wireOne would go at the starter Bat+ terminal at the solenoid, the source of the main feed to the entire electrical system. I'd have to check wire color, it may be black.
You could add others at the alternator and Buss bar(horn relay), along with the Battery Gauge source at Bat+ at the solenoid. This is a separate wire from the main feed wire.