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I just went thru cam break-in on my freshly rebuilt (stock) 66 corvette L72, wiped out several cam lobes on comp cams solid lifter 11-106-3. I’m thinking I would like to go solid roller and looking for similar characteristics. Also anyone tried comp’s nitriding option?
Looking for advice, Bob
Bob - I'm building a 427 to replace the 'flat cam 454' that was in my 65 396 Roadster when I bought it nearly 2 years ago and while I'd love to put in a solid flat tappet cam along the lines of the factory #143 cam...for 'the sound', I'm going to be using a Hydraulic Roller Cam. I've stayed away from
the idea of using a Solid Roller due to so many writeups and shops saying they aren't a great idea for a street engine. Regarding Comp Cams issues, I have no first hand experience but can say they seem to get more than their fair share of comments from
dissatisfied customers. A few of them are regulars on here and you might just hear from them.
Out of curiosity, what's your best guess as to why the Comp Cams went flat on your so quickly, too much spring pressure by chance?
Mike T - Prescott AZ
From: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
St. Jude Donor '12
I have a Nostalgia plus 30-30 flat tappet Comp Cams that I had nitrided at purchase, and am using the edm lifters with the extra lubrication, and I was very careful about following the instructions on break in, and had the lobes slathered with Comp break in lube, and also was using motor oil that was for break in on flat tappet cams. Whatever I did, it worked. It works great. I am also about to fire up a 380" engine in my 62 that is a solid roller. Comp made it as well. I'll let you know how it goes.
Last edited by vettsplit 63; May 18, 2021 at 07:37 PM.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
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St. Jude Donor '25
Bob - what a bummer to hear about your cam wiping some lobes - especially on a fresh rebuild. That's gotta be frustrating as hell. With that much metal running through the oiling system, are you planning on checking your bearings?
From: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
St. Jude Donor '12
PSB- whose lifters are you using? I have heard the Enduro X Comp lifters are OK, but the best are Crower, Isky Red Zone or Crane Ultra Pro. Something about HIPPO. High Pressure Pin Oiling.
I have a Comp 280AR-10 in my 3500# with driver 69 Camaro. I installed that cam in the motor in 1988. It ran 12.7 at 110 mph in 1994 which was FAST for a car driven to the race track. That was street tires and through the mufflers with a 1.97 60 foot. Car has a 2.64 first Super T10 and 4.10 rear gears. It has an exceptionally broad power bound, a fabulous idle and pulls hard to 6500 rpm in first gear. My motor is 355" with single trough valve relief pistons ('71 LT-1), 492 straight plug double hump heads that have been ported. I have hemmed and hawed about going hydraulic roller, but honestly, valve adjustments just haven't been a big deal and when you look at the power bounds and the output my mild motor has you'd be hard pressed to match it. I highly recommend the same cam for your motor. (236/236 @ .050 .550 lift intake and exhaust) Peak power would probably be about 6800 rpm with 327 so you could step down one size. Something in the 228-230 range at .050.
Check with CF member Lotsacubes. He's running a Comp hydraulic roller in a stock L72 block and seems to do well with it. I gave up on hydraulic anything in a big block bc they all seemed to float valves above 5500, but thats just me. The risk with solid rollers, i still read, is the lifters can grenade at unpredictable times. Member 427hotrod says just change em every so often and don't worry about it. That might be the right advice.
So what to get? On a 427, solid roller, you can get away with 240/250 duration st .050, and lobe separation 112 to 114.
I went to a solid roller from a solid flat tappet in the 502 in my 69. Couldn’t be happier. On advice from many, I called Mike Jones at Jones cams and he spec’d out a street friendly roller cam based on my wants and my engine specs. It has softer ramps and he said it would give great street life. I think just as important is to use good quality lifters. I am using the Morel bushing lifters with the high pressure oiling. There are no needle bearings and the bushings would give you warning of problems by seeing lash widening. Must keep good clean oil in engine with the bushing lifters. Only other must is on any roller cam, use a billet core!
The roller cam is a little bigger than the flat tappet it replaced, but has a totally different feel. Feels like it would rev to 10000 rpm lol. Don’t have many miles on it yet, but love the way it feels. Also nice not to have to go through the flat tappet break in process. I now agree with the saying that life is too short to not run a solid roller. Good parts and attentive maintainence should give good life.
Last edited by 69ttop502; May 19, 2021 at 07:45 AM.
Contact Chris Straub at Straub Industries. I worked with him on a solid roller for my small block. Very good guy to work with and happy with the results.
Patrick
Last edited by Patrick03; May 19, 2021 at 05:49 PM.
Contact Kurt Straub at Straub Industries. I worked with him on a solid roller for my small block. Very good guy to work with and happy with the results.
Patrick
Chris Straub. And he has an excellent reputation for providing the right cam to maximize power, driveability and durability. https://straubtechnologies.com/
PSB- whose lifters are you using? I have heard the Enduro X Comp lifters are OK, but the best are Crower, Isky Red Zone or Crane Ultra Pro. Something about HIPPO. High Pressure Pin Oiling.
good advise... I've never had a cam problem after going to the HIPPO lifters on several built up small blocks, last one had .700 lift and spent 95% of it's time on the street before I did the LS7 swap on my camaro. Before those were available I had 1 destroyed cam and several rebuilt lifters on previous motors with aggressive solid rollers.
I took the engine back to the rebuilder, he is going to tear it down and check bearings. When I did the beak-in I was told by him and his final assembly guy it was ready to fire, I questioned them on not removing the inner valve spring and was told they never do and it was a lot of extra work. I’m thinking I shouldn’t have to pay for the rebuild again should be warranty. I’ve read on another site posts by Jones cams and was impressed by their knowledge on cams and that they use high quality cores for their grinds.
I think I’m going to order a stock L72 flat tappet cam and lifters with the EDM hole.
Bob