When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I started out just wanting to replace the heater hoses on my recently purchased 64. They had paint on them, looked swollen at the clamps and the tee connection at the expansion tank was all corroded. I guess it's typical with older cars tp have project creep. I have new heater hoses and stainless steel clamps, I now also have a new battery (old one was dated Dec 2014), replaced missing battery hold down and hardware, I replaced the loose battery cable clamps and added a battery disconnect. Figured while I was at it might as well replace the radiator hoses as well and just flush the system. While I was installing the expansion tank the slightly higher battery made contact with the positive terminal and now I'm looking at a new tank. So much for a $20 set of hoses and clamps. On the bright side I found concentrated Zerex G05, got 3 gallons for $32 at NAPA, normally around $20/gal. My question to the forum: how could I have prevented this beyond just being told not to make contact or be more careful? Should I have placed a towel or foam padding over the positive terminal?
Wait until you start looking at the 8 bolts that hold the body to the frame.
I used to jokingly tell my wife I was 8 bolts away from disaster.
Then I started test loosening them just to see if they would come loose or not.
And indeed they did.
The body came off shortly after that
Which was 2 years ago
and it still isn't finished and running
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C2 of Year Finalist (stock)
2016 C2 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by slopoke17
I started out just wanting to replace the heater hoses on my recently purchased 64. They had paint on them, looked swollen at the clamps and the tee connection at the expansion tank was all corroded. I guess it's typical with older cars tp have project creep. I have new heater hoses and stainless steel clamps, I now also have a new battery (old one was dated Dec 2014), replaced missing battery hold down and hardware, I replaced the loose battery cable clamps and added a battery disconnect. Figured while I was at it might as well replace the radiator hoses as well and just flush the system. While I was installing the expansion tank the slightly higher battery made contact with the positive terminal and now I'm looking at a new tank. So much for a $20 set of hoses and clamps. On the bright side I found concentrated Zerex G05, got 3 gallons for $32 at NAPA, normally around $20/gal. My question to the forum: how could I have prevented this beyond just being told not to make contact or be more careful? Should I have placed a towel or foam padding over the positive terminal?
Were the battery terminals oriented away from the expansion tank. Still a tight squeeze, but I also keep a pair of these in my tool box. The caps come with new batteries. If you ask nice, local parts houses may give you some free.
Oh I know all about project creep! I had started the SAME JOB and wound up with a whole new heater core, new outer heater box, new underlayment, and repainted speaker grill
Bummer about that tank. That could be an expensive oops. I'd see if you could find a good TIG guy.
The new battery terminals are like yours, negative to the top left. Unfortunately someone replaced the negative cable with a shorter version and it wont reach the far corner even with a blade type cutoff switch. The only way the cables fit as it is now is with the positive on the inside toward the backside of the fender (see below). The negative cable is attached to the rear of the bellhousing and isn't really accessible to be removed unless the motor is pulled. I can get a box wrench on it but its really torqued on there and no room for leverage. Can I add another longer negative cable and if I can where does it need to be connected? ANY suggestions will be appreciated.
Someone might say otherwise, but I doubt it! Your battery is backward. Reverse the orientation, get a new negative cable of the necessary length. My personal liking on my car is,REDfor positive, and BLACK for negative. Yes, this is not the colors as GM did it, but visually, no mistaking what is positive. Your car, your way! Dennis
Someone might say otherwise, but I doubt it! Your battery is backward. Reverse the orientation, get a new negative cable of the necessary length. My personal liking on my car is,REDfor positive, and BLACK for negative. Yes, this is not the colors as GM did it, but visually, no mistaking what is positive. Your car, your way! Dennis
When I installed the new battery, I just figured it was correctly oriented as the cable lengths dictated the location. I never questioned it until the tank hit the positive post. I ordered a black negative cable so it should be fine after I reorient the battery.
The battery is on the other side. And you have to remove the wheel to swap it out!
I wonder if that was to keep it close to the alternator or offset the weight of the compressor on the passenger side? Seems like a lot of work to remove the battery, there must be an access panel then to slide it out.
I wonder if that was to keep it close to the alternator or offset the weight of the compressor on the passenger side? Seems like a lot of work to remove the battery, there must be an access panel then to slide it out.
there is no room on the passenger for the battery with factory AC
If you can’t loosen the end of the negative at the bellhousing, cut it as close to the bolt as possible, switch your battery around, install the correct negative cable and put the cutoff switch on the negative terminal...done!
Now, there are plenty of other projects you can creep into!
I did not read all the of this thread, but I think the battery is installed backwards. I just replaced my 11 year old Delco last Friday. The negative terminal goes closest to the engine. I have spring ring cables and the neg.cable is secured at the bell housing and is a brown color and the positive cable is black. If I have this backwards it works. I have a GREEN cut off switch.
Project creep
Dennis
