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I can't remove my distributor without moving the engine forward first. The distributor is tucked under the "rain gutter" at the back of the engine bay opening in the body. In the side shot picture you can't even see the rear most (in this case #6) plug wire. The angled picture shows it hiding underneath.
What would be causing this? Could the body be mounted this far forward on the frame? Is there that much play in the mounting points that this could happen?
Your engine appears to be set back further than mine is. I don't recall the transmission mounts or motor mounts having a lot of fore/aft play in them so not sure why your engine sits so far back. You could try loosening those mounting points and the exhaust hangers at the trans and shifting the engine forward. Or, as suggested, remove wires and cap to get the distributor out.
We don't know enough to be any help.
We can see your engine is not stock, with the coil mounted on the left, rather than the right.
We don't know the year of your car,
What frame is under it,
What engine is in it, or the intake manifold on it.
Provide a lot more detail about the car, and someone here should be able to help.
Your engine appears to be set back further than mine is. I don't recall the transmission mounts or motor mounts having a lot of fore/aft play in them so not sure why your engine sits so far back. You could try loosening those mounting points and the exhaust hangers at the trans and shifting the engine forward. Or, as suggested, remove wires and cap to get the distributor out.
Patrick
If I take the rear wires off first I can get the cap off. However, the distributor still needs to be taken out straight up several inches before it clears the intake and by then the body of the distributor kits the fiberglass and cannot be removed. I literally need to disconnect the motor mounts at the engine block, the transmission from the cross member, the exhaust pipes from the manifolds, the clutch and throttle linkage and move the engine forward an inch or so to be able to remove the distributor.
I have not seen any other cars at shows that are in this situation, which is why I was wondering if the body might be mounted too far forward on the frame but I don't know how much play there is in the body mounting points. Obviously the engine cannot be mounted with any adjustment since the frame mounts are welded on.
We don't know enough to be any help.
We can see your engine is not stock, with the coil mounted on the left, rather than the right.
We don't know the year of your car,
What frame is under it,
What engine is in it, or the intake manifold on it.
Provide a lot more detail about the car, and someone here should be able to help.
The engine configuration is basically stock but it has an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap aluminum manifold but that makes no difference since the distributor has to be in the same location otherwise it wouldn't line up with the block. It is a 427 which is why the coil is on the drivers side which is stock. It is a 1967 with a stock factory frame.
From: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
St. Jude Donor '12
It is possible when mounting the body to have about 3/4" adjustment, as I remember. If it was shoved to the extreme front of the mounting holes I guess that would account for that. It would be a whole lot easier to loosen all the mounting bolts and move the body back than to move the engine and trans.
Last edited by vettsplit 63; Jun 4, 2021 at 10:09 AM.
It is possible when mounting the body to have about 3/4" adjustment, as I remember. If it was shoved to the extreme front of the mounting holes I guess that would account for that.
Thanks vettsplit 63. Would it be as "simple" as loosening all the body mount bolts and sliding the body backwards to gain as much clearance as possible? I don't think I would need to disconnect anything (except for maybe the throttle and clutch linkage and do a final adjustment afterwards) since I would not be doing a body removal. I shouldn't have to do anything with the shifter since it is a Hurst shifter that is attached to the transmission and not the frame like the Muncie shifter was. I have never done this before so I am not very familiar with all it takes to do it.
Can the engine be lifted enough in the front to remove the front engine mounts. Then lower engine down in the front. That will tilt the distributor forward and then maybe ii will clear the restrictions. I do not know about fan clearance maybe that would also have to be removed.
Not sure by your pictures what all has been done to your 427 but a stock setup had no issues removing the distributor straight up out of the engine bay.
If you remove the console and boot, how is the shifter centered in the hole in the tunnel? On side view, how are the wheels/tires centered in the wheel wells?
Do they seem to be offset to the back of the wheel wells? It would be subtle but should be noticeable if you focus on it.
The radiator core support is tied to the inner fenders in a fixed location. Sliding the body back 3/4" would bring the radiator back the same into the front of the engine.
How is the fan located in the fan shroud now? Back of it so the whole fan is outside of the shroud?
If you remove the console and boot, how is the shifter centered in the hole in the tunnel? On side view, how are the wheels/tires centered in the wheel wells?
Do they seem to be offset to the back of the wheel wells? It would be subtle but should be noticeable if you focus on it.
The radiator core support is tied to the inner fenders in a fixed location. Sliding the body back 3/4" would bring the radiator back the same into the front of the engine.
How is the fan located in the fan shroud now? Back of it so the whole fan is outside of the shroud?
Good points. It appears that the body is pretty well centered on the wheels and the fan is mostly inside of the shroud, with nearly an inch of clearance from the front of the blades to the radiator side of the shroud. So if the body were to be moved back 3/4" there would be a slight clearance for the fan blades to the front of the shroud.
From: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
St. Jude Donor '12
It would also be interesting to see where the harmonic balancer is in relation to the front crossmember. I wish I could look at the car/engine placement in person
How does the transmission bolt to the crossmember? If it were to low it would cause the engine to pivot down and the distributor would come too close to the firewall.
I would look at the connection piece and cushion .
See the photos in the 63 seatcover thread for reference.
Last edited by silver837; Jun 4, 2021 at 07:08 PM.
How does the transmission bolt to the crossmember? If it were to low it would cause the engine to pivot down and the distributor would come too close to the firewall.
I would look at the connection piece and cushion .
See the photos in the 63 seatcover thread for reference.
I searched for the thread above but could not find it. Here is a picture of my rear transmission support for reference. I also included a picture of the bolt heads with reference to the slots in the crossmember. The bolts are offset to the rear of the slots.
It would also be interesting to see where the harmonic balancer is in relation to the front crossmember. I wish I could look at the car/engine placement in person
Here is a picture of the balancer from below. The rear face of the balancer is approximately 3/4" to the rear of the front crossmember.
If you have a copy of the AIM , check to see if your transmission is installed correctly.
Obviously something is not right. It is going to take some time and detective work to figure it out.
Distributor clearance issue
