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Jake, It was likely pressed under tons of force while extremely heated. I don't know if that could be replicated easily.
To me, if me, I wouldn't try to replace it. It may turn bad on you.
Yours doesn't appear to be that bad. Maybe dress it with some emery cloth to remove any ridges. When its locked into the drag link socket caps and tightened I doubt you'd notice any play at all.
To me trying to replace it could be a weak link if it ever loosened up.
I would not replace that either based on the wear I see. If you did replace it I would not heat it. This is going to anneal it after it's been heat treated and make it soft, this is not a guess it's fact. Anything above 400 degrees starts annealing which you do not want. I believe only the ball end is heat treated,and the part you peen is still soft. But I wouldnt replace it unless absolutely necessary and I don't see that. I have one off of a 55 nomad that someone welded and it broke loose. My friend was driving it around with the ball flopping he noticed a lot of play in the steering. He wanted me to repair it but we found new ones for $100 and I didn't want to be responsible for the ball coming loose and wiping out his family and maybe others.
Last edited by Robert61; Jun 26, 2021 at 07:50 PM.
Found that Paragon has written up 99% instructions on how to remove the existing ball and install new. What they don't say is what should be used to peen the end of the shaft like the original.
If one follows Paragon's procedure (which it appears they do offer a service to replace them), I certainly wouldn't heat the 3rd arm much. Since the ball would be in dry ice the arm would need minimal heat to warm it up to expand just enough to easily drop the cold stud into. I'm sure just placing the arm in an oven to a few hundred degrees would do it as well.
I sent Tom an email last night asking about how he peens it - anvil + 3lb hammer + chisel; followed by a flat nose punch (hard steel) to flatten it down flat.
In my mind the key is to have a good interference fit and solid peen over.
Last edited by Jake Morgan; Jun 29, 2021 at 08:16 AM.
DZ auto says he's done a few of these without issue. Did you note the first line in the instructions, if this isn't done correctly it will result in loss of steering or car. I would do this only if absolutely necessary and we've mentioned yours doesn't appear to be in that category. Also they say send them the parts and they will do it. The one I worked on for the 55 nomad someone had welded it in and the weld broke loose allowing the ball to wobble around. Fortunately it didn't fall out. This and brakes are the 2 most important things youll work on.
You beat me to the punch. You posted while I was typing.
The scary thing about peening to me is knowing 100% for certain you have the ball seated after the peening operation and you didn't knock it down any while hitting on it.
Last edited by Robert61; Jun 29, 2021 at 08:20 AM.
Anyone have an idea what type of iron the arm is made out of?
I would think it would take more than 400 degrees to start annealing the arm? Maybe not?
There are lots of charts for various processes that show cast (if that's what we're talking about here) needs 500+ degrees C which would be about a 1000 degrees F
Thus why I would expect a welded arm to fail (unless a pro is involved with preheating, etc) given mig/arc/tig create high temps (well above 1000F).
Anneal and ductile are fascinating subjects. My great grandfather was a blacksmith and machinist way back in the turn of the 20th century and learned his trade fixing equipment in the western mines. He later worked for North American in LA during the space race. I was lucky enough to have known him as a 9-10 yr old. Later I would hear great stories about how he could do the impossible with metals.
Last edited by Jake Morgan; Jun 29, 2021 at 08:59 AM.
DZ auto says he's done a few of these without issue. Did you note the first line in the instructions, if this isn't done correctly it will result in loss of steering or car. I would do this only if absolutely necessary and we've mentioned yours doesn't appear to be in that category. Also they say send them the parts and they will do it. The one I worked on for the 55 nomad someone had welded it in and the weld broke loose allowing the ball to wobble around. Fortunately it didn't fall out. This and brakes are the 2 most important things youll work on.
You beat me to the punch. You posted while I was typing.
The scary thing about peening to me is knowing 100% for certain you have the ball seated after the peening operation and you didn't knock it down any while hitting on it.
Agreed. I've done something similar with the rear crossmember rivets (3/8" steel rivets). I haven't had a chance to post my findings and work yet. But similar concerns exist as to make sure the rivet head is tightly seated and flat against the crossmember while driving the rivet shank.
Jake, do you need a replacement? If interested I can clean it up and get better photos.
I'm good for now..until i make a decision on replacing the ball stud. It appears its made out of the same material as the clutch/zbar ball stud. I replaced that one and welded it.
The replacement that i welded in. Notice I left evidence of the center of the stud for the next person that needs to replace it.
The replacement fitting. I beveled it a bit to increase the welding surface.
Original factory ball stud on the clutch bracket.
Last edited by Jake Morgan; Jul 2, 2021 at 12:55 PM.
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Third Member - ball stud replacement
