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[C1] Reverse Lockout

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Old Aug 2, 2021 | 11:09 PM
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Default Reverse Lockout

My reverse lockout no longer works on my 59 stock shifter, no spring tension. Can this be repaired topside, or must the shifter be removed?
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Old Aug 3, 2021 | 01:47 AM
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If I remember correctly you remove the lock out rod and replace the broken spring from the top.
Do you have a copy of the AIM ?

Last edited by silver837; Aug 3, 2021 at 01:48 AM.
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Old Aug 3, 2021 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by silver837
If I remember correctly you remove the lock out rod and replace the broken spring from the top.
Do you have a copy of the AIM ?
Yes I do, didn’t think to look there. Thanks!
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Old Aug 3, 2021 | 08:50 AM
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This may help a bit...






Good luck... GUSTO
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Old Aug 3, 2021 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GUSTO14
This may help a bit...






Good luck... GUSTO
Yes, thanks, more so than the AIM.
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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 04:46 PM
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I don’t know what this is but the only pic that matches what I have is the top one. I can find no screws or set screw as shown in the second and third pic and the AIM rfo 385, sht. 2.00 is no help either. From what I see, that bottom pin (photo) must come out. Is that correct? Can it be knocked out from the top, provided I can get something in there?




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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 06:06 PM
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The written instructions shown are C2.
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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 06:56 PM
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I thought so, great. So my original question still is, can the spring be fixed or replaced from the top? If so, how?
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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 07:54 PM
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Back when these cars were new, the most popular "Bubba Fix" to this issue was to unscrew the shift ****, drop on a good-sized spring, and put the **** back on. Worked so well, many of us drove 'em that way for years.


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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fyreline
Back when these cars were new, the most popular "Bubba Fix" to this issue was to unscrew the shift ****, drop on a good-sized spring, and put the **** back on. Worked so well, many of us drove 'em that way for years.

Plus, you get several good sized blood blisters where palm and finger skin get pinched in the spring coils/

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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fyreline
Back when these cars were new, the most popular "Bubba Fix" to this issue was to unscrew the shift ****, drop on a good-sized spring, and put the **** back on. Worked so well, many of us drove 'em that way for years.

Good idea, didn’t think of that. I’ll do that until which time I have to remove the shifter then I’ll fix it proper. I’m convinced that that bottom pin must be removed for disassembly and I don’t think that can be done from the top.
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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Plus, you get several good sized blood blisters where palm and finger skin get pinched in the spring coils/
Sounds like fun!
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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Plus, you get several good sized blood blisters where palm and finger skin get pinched in the spring coils/
I drove a couple different C1's that were "fixed" this way for many, many years and never even came close to doing that, not even once.
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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by fyreline
I drove a couple different C1's that were "fixed" this way for many, many years and never even came close to doing that, not even once.
Let's just see how that works for this man.
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Old Aug 14, 2021 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fyreline
I drove a couple different C1's that were "fixed" this way for many, many years and never even came close to doing that, not even once.
Good to hear, then I’ll try to get a spring like your pic.
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Old Aug 15, 2021 | 11:32 PM
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Got the spring and it works great. Didn’t experience any pinching, may depend on the type of spring, tension, number of coils, etc. Thanks for the tip!



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