While in the process of replacing my top I had posted earlier about the bow to windshield gap and the angle of "tilt". Those out there recommended I do NOT attempt to tilt it (by bending the attaching tabs at the end of the side window runners) and instead try to test fit it with the seal installed. This was good advice and what I found was that the bow itself was "bowed" too much. Sitting on a flat concrete floor I gave it a couple of mild shots with a dead blow plastic hammer which "flattened" it about a half inch and it now seals great (passed the dollar bill test) without having to touch the side rails. I'm nearing completion and have one last issue with those side rails over the windows. I can't get the joint in the middle of the window to go up enough. It needs about another 1/4" up on both sides (only in the middle at the joint). When trying to close the doors with the windows up it hits the outer edge of the window seal lip which blocks the window from getting to the inner lip. The fit is perfect out at the window corners and sides. I've tried every adjustment I can think of and can't seem to make any difference and I'm on the edge of calling suicide hot line. What the H am I doing wrong???

Can't seem to get this point any higher

Adjustment bottomed out (don't know if this is correct). Also tried it forward and back and all over the place.

 

Does the back of the top fit tight to the body

 

If you're talking about the rear bow where it meets the rear deck, yes. In fact I think it is a little too tight as it is real tough to operate the toggles.

 

I had the exact same problem with my 59's top. I compared the driver side with the passenger side of the top. The passenger side was streight across and the window fit well when rolled up. The driver side was a differen't story. The part of the frame from the joint to the front of the frame had a significant bow in it when you placed a streight edge on it. I had to streighten that piece to get rid if the problem you are showing. You may have the same issue.
PS I played with all of the adjustments also and nothing worked for me until I did what I stated above.

 

Finally got it after a whole day of fighting (both sides). I had to put a clamp on the joint pictured, tighten it down then futts with the arm "adjustment" noted above. This got the top rail to follow the curve of the window top. After that just a minor trim of the outer lip of the top seal (in the middle only) so it wouldn't catch the window and curl under. Now just fighting with the rear bow seal gap in some spots. The rubber seal is new but not all that pliable to meet the deck in some spots.

Key joint

 

Thank you for getting back to us with your solution. Most members, that post their problems, never provide that courtesy to post's responders.
Leave your car out in the sun, with the top up. It should "relax" and take it's correct shape. Great job on the fix.
Phillip

 

Finally got it done and as others have said 'all C1 tops leak' this one does also over the windshield. I had said, above, that the front bow had "too much" of a bow to it not sealing in the center. I see now that with everything in place that once buckled down the back part of the seal doesn't sit on the windshield even though the front part does. Blasting the hose at it exposed some drips. I'm not too worried about it because a strip of self adhesive soft foam should stop it and be hidden. One final issue was the rear deck seal on the outer driver's side. This is very dangerous, on '60 and earlier C1s with exhaust out the bumpers, as I found out the hard way and as I'm sure others found out. Two years ago when my wife and I were driving to a show with the top up (being a little chilly in the morning) I started getting woozy and thought I was going to pass out. I stopped and got out and my wife was saying she felt the same. The exhaust likes to sweep around the deck and leak into the cabin under the seal. We put the top down and continued with no problem later fixing the seal. What I did with this new seal was to get some of that #m foam tape (mostly because it's thick) and slopped a couple of thicknesses between the seal and the steel bow. This pushed the rubber edge down at that point enough to form a good seal.


Very dangerous.