Does gmperformance make any blocks that will fit in a 65? Their website lists only 1986 and newer blocks.

 

any chevy V8 from 1955 to current will fit. your problem is accesses, and intake clearances

 

What is it you want to accomplish? You can use early heads and intake on the later style block. The main differences will be the dip stick location and a one piece rear main seal which is a major improvement anyway. If for some reason you wanted to use an early crank you simply put an adapter on the rear of the block and use a 2 piece seal and the early style crank.

 

I have a 1970 style LT1 in it, 350ci, but the block has an issue. I have read mixed reviews on aftermarket engine manufacturers like ATK and Blue Print, so I want to get a block from GM and build either another 350 or get a 383 notched block and go that route. I just want to make sure I won't have any issues mating up to the original bell housing and 4 speed, exhaust manafold, or clearance in the front of the engine.

 

You can use your heads and intake and the exhaust location will not change. If you are going the 383 route and changing the crank anyway it's a good time to go with the one piece rear main seal. The rest of the block is the same as far as the front and bellhousing. Your dipstick and oil pan will be different.

 

Most obvious (to me) change to the later blocks is the location of the dipstick (from Left side, to the Right side).

Plasticman

 

[QUOTE=Bdeliman;1604297358]I have a 1970 style LT1 in it, 350ci, but the block has an issue. I have read mixed reviews on aftermarket engine manufacturers like ATK and Blue Print, so I want to get a block from GM and build either another 350 or get a 383 notched block and go that route. I just want to make sure I won't have any issues mating up to the original bell housing and 4 speed, exhaust manafold, or clearance in the front of the engine.[/What kind of mixed reviews on Blueprint? I have heard nothing but good about them.

 

Don't know what HP levels you want.

They have all kinds of ways to go, depending on your price level, performance desire.

They have their 350/290 hp, which is a good base for most, most economical.

The ZZ series, is a performance step up, and they actually sell I think it in a short block, you use your own heads (pistons installed), or a long block with heads.
They have a CT series, circle track engines, and the higher HP ones tend to get higher end parts. Not cheap, but more bang for the buck, than their ZZ6 or 383.

The 383 seems popular also.

Your post said Blocks, not engines, and they do offer raw blocks. I like the BowTie Race ones (#24502503), but they have the most economical Sportsman ones too (#12480047)

 

Only two things of significant concern: dipstick and flywheel'
In the late 70s, the dipstick changed from the left side to the right side, thus, requiring an oil pan made for a right side dipstick.
The LAST year for a 2-piece rear main seal was 1985. For 86-later small blocks, which have a one piece rear seal, the rear flange of the crankshaft completely changed, thus, requiring an 86-later style flywheel. BOTH the center hole and the bolt pattern are different. But they still accept the same clutch pressure plate bolt pattern.
Also, with an 86-later block (with one piece rear seal), it is also necessary to use an 86-later style SB pan.
All the earlier SB parts, such as bell housing, water pump, etc, will bolt onto an 86-later SB.
The later heads will have a different bolt pattern for the intake manifold and valve covers (center bolt valve covers------------------YUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). But the earlier heads bolt on just fine so that earlier manifolds and valve covers can be used. Bolt pattern is the same for exhaust manifolds.

Now, with all that said, since I rebuilt my very first babbitt beater 216 in the 51 Chevy almost 60yrs ago, EVERY GM engine that I've built (more than I can ever count) has been with a factory, production GM block. In almost 60yrs of building engines, I've used ONE set of aftermarket iron heads (DART) on a SB420, one set of alum heads (Trick Flow) on a SB400 and one set of Edlebrock alum heads on an Olds 455 built to W30 specs. ALL other GM engines got GM production heads.
ZERO issues with GM cast blocks and heads. And yes, I have my machinist thoroughly check and inspect them before spending good money for machine work.

 

Yes

 

I would and did go with a Dart block. Plenty of options.

https://dartheads.com/