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I've seen so many awesome modded C2's here on the forum. I'm curious what you fellas do ...if anything...with the front end to handle the big power ? My BP 383 makes 430/450 which I feel is very close to my very maintained but bone stock front end handling limits .
Can I ask for those making 500-600HP what mods are done .....if any...to get the front end responsive, tight and safe under power ?
Do a search for member 632C2, and do a search for some of his posts...... as I recall, he is well North of the HP range you asked about, and would be able to tell you what he has done, and what is experiences have been.....
560 hp L72 with roller and Brodix aluminum heads. Engine weight slightly more than a SB. F41 springs and bars with Bilstein shocks. 225/50R17 Front. 235/50R17 Rear. The manual steering box is very different from rack/pinion, but curious what your handling/driving goals are. With only a shoulder harness and no roll bar, I'm not comfortable with aggressive back road driving. But I have no problems with stock steering under power. The C2 racers here may be more helpful.
Jam 421, I do not have the answer (apologetically), however If I wanted to know the answer to your question (which is interesting), I'd ask this forum member: "Lakebum". He is the expert (as far as I know) on a modern approach to stock framed C2 handling....
Also you can search for his forum posts....However, his C2 "kills it" on the contemporary autocross circuit.
Last edited by vjjack04; Dec 14, 2021 at 09:47 PM.
That's because all those guys converted from FWD to RWD. That way they just had to figure out how to get the assend to stick.
Duke
Seriously, the stock front end is capable of handling whatever forces the rest of the car can generate. If you just make sure the suspension is up to spec (fresh ball joints, etc.) there should be no need to do anything else.
Thanks fellas. I'm not an autocross guy and chose the BP 383 because despite attention to the front end at shops + poly Rear Control Arm bushings I felt there was wiggle room in the steering. Like many guys we have or had other cars that make Big Power. I was not comfortable once I felt the steering have virtually no response with movement of the wheel ie: from 11:30-12:30. I've had two 600-650hp 2200lb FFR Cobras (Mustang front ends) and just sold my 4.10 geared 850HP '13 GT500 all of which I could handle under WOT on the street and felt confident I could get out of trouble if things got loose during spirited pushes on the go pedal. A few of the non-FFR Cobra guys had Flaming River steering racks installed for better handling.
I know our C2's don't have a modern front end & should not be compared with anything from recent muscle car chassis or suspensions. But...under power I can't feel confident with steering wheel play in the event I need quick & stable corrections. My C2 is currently in the shop getting a Free Repair of headlamp louver spider cracks that were not addressed properly back in April. I posted a thread on that and that high end custom hot rod shop is making good on our verbal warranty after I was told to enjoy the summer season before bringing back for a " Re-Do". When I dropped the car off ....in the showroom they had a custom built resto-mod tube chassis C1 Vert with 500HP LS2 engine, stunning interior with a C4 Rear & C4 front end assembly. The shop told me it rides amazingly smooth & handles like a go kart on the road and around curves. Of course, those mods are not options for my C2. FWIW...that C1 may be for sale ( I'm making offers) as I'd LOVE to see that C1 sitting next to my C2 in the garage ! When I pick up my C2 after the holidays I'll make the final push on that awesome C1 resto-mod. I will also ask their recommendations about tweaking my front end for tighter more precise steering upgrades. But...it's always best to ask what works on the forum for our C2's as I explore what the shop has to say. I was hoping for a simpler aftermarket solution (:-> !
The '64 has Guldstrand Sport Suspension touring springs, cut down 1". I also have an adjustable sway bar and Vette Brakes and Products adjustable strut rods and Tokico shocks all around. I run 225/60/15s on 7"-wide wheels front and rear. Oh, can't forget the line lock. I also have the Guldstrand rear end "locating kit" in the '64.
Did you upgrade to the Big Block yolks in the rear end? That would be the first improvement to make if you haven't already.
560 hp L72 with roller and Brodix aluminum heads. Engine weight slightly more than a SB. F41 springs and bars with Bilstein shocks. 225/50R17 Front. 235/50R17 Rear. The manual steering box is very different from rack/pinion, but curious what your handling/driving goals are. With only a shoulder harness and no roll bar, I'm not comfortable with aggressive back road driving. But I have no problems with stock steering under power. The C2 racers here may be more helpful.
Originally Posted by Jam421
Thanks fellas. I'm not an autocross guy and chose the BP 383 because despite attention to the front end at shops + poly Rear Control Arm bushings I felt there was wiggle room in the steering. Like many guys we have or had other cars that make Big Power. I was not comfortable once I felt the steering have virtually no response with movement of the wheel ie: from 11:30-12:30. I've had two 600-650hp 2200lb FFR Cobras (Mustang front ends) and just sold my 4.10 geared 850HP '13 GT500 all of which I could handle under WOT on the street and felt confident I could get out of trouble if things got loose during spirited pushes on the go pedal. A few of the non-FFR Cobra guys had Flaming River steering racks installed for better handling.
I know our C2's don't have a modern front end & should not be compared with anything from recent muscle car chassis or suspensions. But...under power I can't feel confident with steering wheel play in the event I need quick & stable corrections. My C2 is currently in the shop getting a Free Repair of headlamp louver spider cracks that were not addressed properly back in April. I posted a thread on that and that high end custom hot rod shop is making good on our verbal warranty after I was told to enjoy the summer season before bringing back for a " Re-Do". When I dropped the car off ....in the showroom they had a custom built resto-mod tube chassis C1 Vert with 500HP LS2 engine, stunning interior with a C4 Rear & C4 front end assembly. The shop told me it rides amazingly smooth & handles like a go kart on the road and around curves. Of course, those mods are not options for my C2. FWIW...that C1 may be for sale ( I'm making offers) as I'd LOVE to see that C1 sitting next to my C2 in the garage ! When I pick up my C2 after the holidays I'll make the final push on that awesome C1 resto-mod. I will also ask their recommendations about tweaking my front end for tighter more precise steering upgrades. But...it's always best to ask what works on the forum for our C2's as I explore what the shop has to say. I was hoping for a simpler aftermarket solution (:-> !
A rebuilt steering box is a common upgrade for a 60 year old car, along with a new rag joint and new tie-rod ends, to tighten up decades of wear.
Many have upgraded to power steering with a Borgeson steering box and pump. The steering box is a modern variable ratio and effort box that improves the on-center feel with less backlash slack. Do a search for threads, because some feel it's over boosted, but fixes are discussed to enhance the modern car feel in the 60 year old C2 chassis. A smaller steering wheel can also make a world of difference to the driver.
Be aware that loose trailing arm and strut rod bushings in the rear suspension on a C2 can induce a lot of steering handling ills, and the high rear roll center can promote snap oversteer (something GM corrected with parts changes in the C3 era}. Both ends of the car may need attention.
Toddalin ...The rear was upgraded years ago which actually included adjustable control arms to eliminate the need for shims. I had the car 4 wheel aligned about 4 months ago. THAT made a big difference in overall handling on cruises.
Thnx 63 340HP....I like the Borgeson set up !