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So on my new-to-me 67, the headlights both open and close, but the passenger side takes noticeably longer to open and close,
but since they both work, I assume the switch, circuit breakers, wiring and motors are all working…
So I decided to pull and check/lube the gearbox… one at a time.
easy to remove through the hood opening…. Except I had to disconnect the hood support because there wasn’t enough room to get the assembly out otherwise (perhaps if I played with it more, but I was worried I’d scratch the hood…
came out EASILY…. There was no clip, so it felt like it would come free when I was trying to unplug the wiring…. The ground screw came off with my fingers only ( perhaps this was one reason for the slower /weaker motor?)…
so tonight I’ll start the gearbox clean/relube…
I think Bubba was here…. Hood support to hood was two “ screws”, and ground wire had a crimp connector ( no star washer either)…
Well, I discovered that taking out both the prop rod -to-hood “ bolts”, and the using the upper prop rod hole in the lower hood hole allowed the hood to stay open in a more vertical orientation, enough to get my arm under the front and R&R the motor assembly…
I also discovered the reason my passenger side headlamp housing was “ loose…. There is no locating stud, so the only thing keeping the motor engaged is the ground screw…
but it is much faster than before. I want to try R&R the drivers side before I order any other parts…
Get a different mounting hracket/ground wire screw or chop a bit off the one you show in your pic. It didn't happen on yours, but it might.. a too long screw can touch the field coil wire and possibly damage it. I did that to one of my original to the car motors 30 years ago. 🤬
Get a different mounting hracket/ground wire screw or chop a bit off the one you show in your pic. It didn't happen on yours, but it might.. a too long screw can touch the field coil wire and possibly damage it. I did that to one of my original to the car motors 30 years ago. 🤬
I will be ordering the replacement screws. On the work bench, it did touch, but that was without the bracket. The thickness of the bracket doesn’t allow the screw to go that deep…
waiting to see if the drivers side bucket rotated easily, or if I need to order other stuff…
I noticed the Chassis Service Manual mentions the adjustment of the bucket surface, but the language isn’t quite clear.
but buckets rotated easily. Drivers gearbox was crusty, passenger was nice inside.
rotated the gears.
both fully close in about 4.5 seconds.
passenger opens in about 4.5 seconds, but drivers side takes just over 6 seconds…
Good enough…
Found some significant play in the system, but turned out to be no locating pin/stud on either side…. Jyst held in place with the ground screw and bracket
I’ve found that hooking them up to a battery on the workbench and running them helps to keep the commutator shined up. Run them both directions for a good while. 5 minutes or so.
they will get hot as they are just a intermittent duty power window motor.
Another headlight thread…
