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[C2] 67 F41 Shock Replacement Options

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Old 01-04-2022, 01:21 PM
  #21  
dcamick
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From Duke:

"Have you removed the shocks and just manually tested that they have substantial resisting force to being stroked, especially in rebound?"


I will plan to pull and test a right rear Koni shock today or tomorrow......And try to eliminate the shocks as a issue.
Old 01-04-2022, 01:30 PM
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68hemi
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After you go through everything mentioned here about the only thing left will be the flywheel which might just be the problem.
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dcamick (04-13-2024)
Old 01-04-2022, 01:41 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 68hemi
After you go through everything mentioned here about the only thing left will be the flywheel which might just be the problem.
Always in the back of my mind!!!!!
Old 01-04-2022, 03:38 PM
  #24  
dcamick
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Update: Shocks are Very Good! Damn those rear shocks are tough!!! LOL!
Old 01-04-2022, 04:54 PM
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63 340HP
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I recommend new strut rods (those bushings are shot).
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Old 01-04-2022, 05:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 63 340HP
I recommend new strut rods (those bushings are shot).
Fricken Can't disagree with you!!! Thanks! In your opinion, can those struts cause that Vibration I'm Chasing?
Old 01-04-2022, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dcamick
Fricken Can't disagree with you!!! Thanks! In your opinion, can those struts cause that Vibration I'm Chasing?

Yes. The wear and metal contact will amplify any imbalance in the drive shaft, half shafts, and stub axles (and with more wear make the rear suspension feel loose and steer).
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dcamick (01-04-2022)
Old 01-05-2022, 09:24 AM
  #28  
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It looks like the strut rod bushings need to be replaced. Back in the day GM did not service them. You had to buy the whole rod, but they were't that expensive. I now understand that replacement bushings can be bought, but don't know if they are OE quality or not.

Duke
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dcamick (01-05-2022)
Old 01-05-2022, 11:09 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SWCDuke
It looks like the strut rod bushings need to be replaced. Back in the day GM did not service them. You had to buy the whole rod, but they were't that expensive. I now understand that replacement bushings can be bought, but don't know if they are OE quality or not.

Duke
Duke,

I have taken a "Leap in Faith" and purchased replacement OEM Strut Rods....... I will have them installed... I will plan to inspect and re bush the rods that are removed... Maybe there will be a positive effect with my vibration issues... My Struts, definitely were not replaced prior to my purchase considering there condition and the fact that there was black over spray paint on the inboard rod ends............

Thanks Much!


Old 01-15-2022, 04:15 AM
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Check your differential front mounting “Snubber” bushing. If unknown, just order the new set. This eliminated my vibration that I chased for a few months.



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Old 01-15-2022, 09:19 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ghostrider20
Check your differential front mounting “Snubber” bushing. If unknown, just order the new set. This eliminated my vibration that I chased for a few months.
I am assuming the Snubber Bushing set was replaced.......I also ASSUMED that the strut rods would have been replaced with a Nut and Bolt Restoration...They were not! The Nuts and Bolts were!!!!

Bushing Set Purchased.....Thank you!
Old 01-15-2022, 10:28 AM
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Doug - At this point, it's a process of elimination and while a deteriorated snubber is more likely to create a 'thumping' sound due to movement because of old bushings, it's not typically going to show itself with a vibration issue but it's worthwhile to replace it.
Check out the pic of the 'lower' snubber bushing that was on my 65 396 Roadster. Looked old but still serviceable. Then I reached in over the top and felt the upper bushing was toast and replaced the set.
Mike T - Prescott AZ


Old 01-15-2022, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Vet65te
Doug - At this point, it's a process of elimination and while a deteriorated snubber is more likely to create a 'thumping' sound due to movement because of old bushings, it's not typically going to show itself with a vibration issue but it's worthwhile to replace it.
Check out the pic of the 'lower' snubber bushing that was on my 65 396 Roadster. Looked old but still serviceable. Then I reached in over the top and felt the upper bushing was toast and replaced the set.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

Mike, I will definitely check that out! Very good information........Is there much shifting when dropping the snubber bolt to replace the bushing set? Any surprises for me?
Old 01-15-2022, 11:01 AM
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Doug - The only movement I can recall is the snubber trying to push that large lower bushing up into the frame, meaning I had to pry the snubber down to let it drop out. That's with everything connected by the way.
There isn't a whole bunch of room on the topside for the wrench but if you hold your 'mouth' just right, it's doable ;-).
Mike T - Prescott AZ
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Old 01-15-2022, 02:41 PM
  #35  
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WELL! Process of elimination:

Slight improvement with strut rod replacements/full alignment


Snubber Bushing (Lower) looks to be in very good condition. Upper Bushing....Hell, I can barely touch it let alone look at it! LOL!
And what is under the lower bushing? Spacers?



Looks like a 9 leaf spring!!! HD (F41) are 7 Leaf, Correct?

Last edited by dcamick; 01-15-2022 at 02:46 PM.
Old 01-15-2022, 03:01 PM
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Doug - Never have seen that use of spacers before. I kinda get the feeling whoever was in there before happened to have a shorter lower rubber bushing and used what looks like the outer leaf spring cupped washers at the ends where they connect to the trailing arms with long bolts. Or maybe they thought they would help out the orientation by using the washers/spacers and effectively drop the nose of the diff? I know there is a slight twist to the leaf spring when installed but that's when it's up on jackstands and just hanging.
And no, you won't be able to see the upper bushing unless you use a mirror on a wand. It's strictly a 'by feel' sorta thing.
Glad to hear your new rear struts have helped a bit on the vibration issue.
Ran across a conversation about a year ago regarding 66 L72s and I used to think they 'all' came with the F41 suspension but turns out it was still an option, even on the high horse L72. Not sure if that's the case with your '67 L71 or not.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
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Old 01-15-2022, 03:11 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Vet65te
Doug - Never have seen that use of spacers before. I kinda get the feeling whoever was in there before happened to have a shorter lower rubber bushing and used what looks like the outer leaf spring cupped washers at the ends where they connect to the trailing arms with long bolts. Or maybe they thought they would help out the orientation by using the washers/spacers and effectively drop the nose of the diff? I know there is a slight twist to the leaf spring when installed but that's when it's up on jackstands and just hanging.
And no, you won't be able to see the upper bushing unless you use a mirror on a wand. It's strictly a 'by feel' sorta thing.
Glad to hear your new rear struts have helped a bit on the vibration issue.
Ran across a conversation about a year ago regarding 66 L72s and I used to think they 'all' came with the F41 suspension but turns out it was still an option, even on the high horse L72. Not sure if that's the case with your '67 L71 or not.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Mike,

You're absolutely correct! those are Strut end cups stacked! If I took them out what would that do to the differential/driveshaft/trans angle requirements? Man, I am sorry for these questions!!! I think I might be closing in on my issues with Vibration. My L71 was listed as having an F41 Suspension.......Not with that rear Leaf Spring!!!!!

Last edited by dcamick; 01-15-2022 at 03:24 PM.

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Old 01-15-2022, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dcamick
Mike,

You're absolutely correct! those are Strut end cups stacked! If I took them out what would that do to the differential/driveshaft/trans angle requirements? Man, I am sorry for these questions!!! I think I might be closing in on my issues with Vibration. My L71 was listed as having an F41 Suspension.......Not with that rear Leaf Spring!!!!!

New pinion support cushions and removal of those spring end bolt washers should help.

The slip joint angle and the pinion angle should both rest at equal but opposite angles with respect to the driveshaft (engine/trans angled down and pinion angled up).






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Old 01-15-2022, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 63 340HP
New pinion support cushions and removal of those spring end bolt washers should help.

The slip joint angle and the pinion angle should both rest at equal but opposite angles with respect to the driveshaft (engine/trans angled down and pinion angled up).





Ed,

So I completely understand:

By removing those Steel strut Caps (WHAT THE HELL ARE THEY DOING THERE?) that will draw the snubber UP toward the frame raising the pinion end of the differential, as shown in your drive shaft level drawing. I will then make certain that the transmission is at the same opposite angle....but not more that 3 degrees....... Correct? and Thank you!

Doug Amick
Old 01-15-2022, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dcamick
Ed,

So I completely understand:

By removing those Steel strut Caps (WHAT THE HELL ARE THEY DOING THERE?) that will draw the snubber UP toward the frame raising the pinion end of the differential, as shown in your drive shaft level drawing. I will then make certain that the transmission is at the same opposite angle....but not more that 3 degrees....... Correct? and Thank you!

Doug Amick
Yes.

Removing those steel washers will draw the snubber up toward the frame, possibly raising the pinion end of the differential too high (unless you install new bushing cushions).

Once you install new bushing cushions, the pinion angle can be measured, and then the trans mount can be shimmed to set a matching slip yoke angle.
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