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65 TI conversion

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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 02:05 PM
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Default 65 TI conversion

I have a 65 396 that is all original and my plan is to keep it that way but I'm done messing around with the TI ignition, I'm looking for advice from guys that have changed out the TI. What is the easiest and best way to change it over. I know I didn't give the best description on the problems and that's because I'm not looking for advice on fixing it I just want to be done with it.
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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 02:19 PM
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You realize TI is one of the main thing that helps determines if it’s a L78. Removing it and adding anything else will cause doubt. Your be better off fixing what you got if it’s a real L78 car. It’s not that complex of a system.
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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 02:36 PM
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I installed a one wire system form lectric limited years ago still starts and runs that was on a points dist on my fuelie
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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 03:07 PM
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My original TI quit about 10 years ago. I replaced the amp with the modern module, replaced the ign coil and pickup coil in the distributor.

Worked great for about 8 years, then began starting hard. After much diagnosis, discovered no spark while cranking. Solution was to disconnect the 12v from the starter. Then I had spark while cranking. (I know, it makes no sense, however when connected, no spark while cranking)

Worked great last year, however, began to start hard again this past Summer and also ignition breakdown above 4k. When pulling a plug wire, the spark was very weak.

For trouble shooting, I connected a HEI 4 pin module in place of the TI amp. (TI distributor triggers the HEI Module) I now had a Huge spark and could easily do 6k with no breakdown. Starting was amazing. Starts on the first turn.

I had some concerns about leaving this setup, as to the life of the HEI module connected to the TI coil, or the life of the TI coil itself.

In looking thru "acquired" stuff from over the years, I found a HEI remote coil (E-core type - vintage 1995 Camaro) and connected that in place of the TI coil. That worked great as well.

With everything zip tied under the hood, I drove it for a week or so that way. I was so impressed with the starting and running, I mounted the HEI coil on the TI coil mount holes, and mounted the HEI module hidden under the brake booster.

I've been using this setup since July, works very well. As Fox mentioned, I was also TI "tired" and just wanted something that worked.

I may repair the TI sometime, however plan to enjoy how great the HEI setup works. All TI harness and amp are still in place. (Not used)

Below is a diagram on the setup, very easy setup. Note, HEI module does require a heat sink, they can get hot. Also used existing TI ignition power wire to energize a relay, to connect 12V to the HEI module, as it requires more power. (12 Gauge wire)
Cost was "0" dollars, module & coil left over from other projects.




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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 04:57 PM
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I understand it will change the look of the car, I'm going to keep all the original parts and eventually have them restored through Dave at TI specialties, I'm at the point I just want the car up and running.
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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Fox 2/23
I understand it will change the look of the car, I'm going to keep all the original parts and eventually have them restored through Dave at TI specialties, I'm at the point I just want the car up and running.
why not fix it right the first time and forget about Mickey mousing it
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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Fox 2/23
I understand it will change the look of the car, I'm going to keep all the original parts and eventually have them restored through Dave at TI specialties, I'm at the point I just want the car up and running.
I wish I lived in a place where I wanted to keep the car running right now Here in northern Illinois, it'll be late March at the earliest. Perhaps you could describe the problem you are having with the TI. Maybe we can find a quick and easy fix? A common problem (I heard) is the insulation on the wires coming out of the distributor gets cracked and you might get a short there?
Otherwise, the amplifier or the connections to it might be a problem?
Hope it's something simple and you are back on the road!

Gerry
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Barry's70LT1
My original TI quit about 10 years ago. I replaced the amp with the modern module, replaced the ign coil and pickup coil in the distributor.

Worked great for about 8 years, then began starting hard. After much diagnosis, discovered no spark while cranking. Solution was to disconnect the 12v from the starter. Then I had spark while cranking. (I know, it makes no sense, however when connected, no spark while cranking)

Worked great last year, however, began to start hard again this past Summer and also ignition breakdown above 4k. When pulling a plug wire, the spark was very weak.

For trouble shooting, I connected a HEI 4 pin module in place of the TI amp. (TI distributor triggers the HEI Module) I now had a Huge spark and could easily do 6k with no breakdown. Starting was amazing. Starts on the first turn.

I had some concerns about leaving this setup, as to the life of the HEI module connected to the TI coil, or the life of the TI coil itself.

In looking thru "acquired" stuff from over the years, I found a HEI remote coil (E-core type - vintage 1995 Camaro) and connected that in place of the TI coil. That worked great as well.

With everything zip tied under the hood, I drove it for a week or so that way. I was so impressed with the starting and running, I mounted the HEI coil on the TI coil mount holes, and mounted the HEI module hidden under the brake booster.

I've been using this setup since July, works very well. As Fox mentioned, I was also TI "tired" and just wanted something that worked.

I may repair the TI sometime, however plan to enjoy how great the HEI setup works. All TI harness and amp are still in place. (Not used)

Below is a diagram on the setup, very easy setup. Note, HEI module does require a heat sink, they can get hot. Also used existing TI ignition power wire to energize a relay, to connect 12V to the HEI module, as it requires more power. (12 Gauge wire)
Cost was "0" dollars, module & coil left over from other projects.

Barry,

Question for you. I have never seen an HEI module out of a distributor, do you think it will fit inside the TI amp? I've been thinking about this method for my L72 with missing TI also. Thanks

Steve
Reply
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
Barry,

Question for you. I have never seen an HEI module out of a distributor, do you think it will fit inside the TI amp? I've been thinking about this method for my L72 with missing TI also. Thanks

Steve
it will fit in the palm of your hand.
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 10:49 AM
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I slept on it and decided to call Dave this morning at Ti Specialties and I decided to send him all the parts so he can go through it and give me the correct working parts. Thanks for all the responses.
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Barry's70LT1
My original TI quit about 10 years ago. I replaced the amp with the modern module, replaced the ign coil and pickup coil in the distributor.

Worked great for about 8 years, then began starting hard. After much diagnosis, discovered no spark while cranking. Solution was to disconnect the 12v from the starter. Then I had spark while cranking. (I know, it makes no sense, however when connected, no spark while cranking)

Worked great last year, however, began to start hard again this past Summer and also ignition breakdown above 4k. When pulling a plug wire, the spark was very weak.

For trouble shooting, I connected a HEI 4 pin module in place of the TI amp. (TI distributor triggers the HEI Module) I now had a Huge spark and could easily do 6k with no breakdown. Starting was amazing. Starts on the first turn.

I had some concerns about leaving this setup, as to the life of the HEI module connected to the TI coil, or the life of the TI coil itself.

In looking thru "acquired" stuff from over the years, I found a HEI remote coil (E-core type - vintage 1995 Camaro) and connected that in place of the TI coil. That worked great as well.

With everything zip tied under the hood, I drove it for a week or so that way. I was so impressed with the starting and running, I mounted the HEI coil on the TI coil mount holes, and mounted the HEI module hidden under the brake booster.

I've been using this setup since July, works very well. As Fox mentioned, I was also TI "tired" and just wanted something that worked.

I may repair the TI sometime, however plan to enjoy how great the HEI setup works. All TI harness and amp are still in place. (Not used)

Below is a diagram on the setup, very easy setup. Note, HEI module does require a heat sink, they can get hot. Also used existing TI ignition power wire to energize a relay, to connect 12V to the HEI module, as it requires more power. (12 Gauge wire)
Cost was "0" dollars, module & coil left over from other projects.

I did the same thing to my L76 many years ago. I used a 4-pin Accel HEI module on a heat sink, which was located out of sight, and wired it to a canister coil in the stock location. With the magnetic pickup in the distributor, it runs great to over 6,500 rpm!
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
Barry,

Question for you. I have never seen an HEI module out of a distributor, do you think it will fit inside the TI amp? I've been thinking about this method for my L72 with missing TI also. Thanks

Steve
Hi Steve,
I did experiment with the module in a TI amp many years ago, however never actually used it any more than testing, however it did work. I mainly carried it as a spare. I see no reason you could not use it in place of the TI amp.

Some wiring would need to be changed, as I believe the existing 12+ wire to the TI amp is a resistance wire. The HEI module needs a good high current 12v supply. (12 gauge wire from a good source) I'm using a relay and picking up the 12v from the horn relay.

Below is a photo of the module mounted.
Barry


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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry's70LT1
Hi Steve,
I did experiment with the module in a TI amp many years ago, however never actually used it any more than testing, however it did work. I mainly carried it as a spare. I see no reason you could not use it in place of the TI amp.

Some wiring would need to be changed, as I believe the existing 12+ wire to the TI amp is a resistance wire. The HEI module needs a good high current 12v supply. (12 gauge wire from a good source) I'm using a relay and picking up the 12v from the horn relay.

Below is a photo of the module mounted.
Barry
And that's the idea, thanks Barry! What distributor did you trigger it with?

Steve
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
And that's the idea, thanks Barry! What distributor did you trigger it with?

Steve
I'm using my stock original TI distributor.
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry's70LT1
I'm using my stock original TI distributor.
I need one of those too.... Thanks

Steve
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Fox 2/23
I understand it will change the look of the car, I'm going to keep all the original parts and eventually have them restored through Dave at TI specialties, I'm at the point I just want the car up and running.
Can say that I blame you.
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 08:33 PM
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the more I think about it the HEI module in place of the amp board is a very InGenius solution, the great point is the HEI module is cheap and available at any local auto parts store. If I ever get the nerve to swap TI into my Chevelle I might have to look more into it.
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Old Jan 8, 2022 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
the more I think about it the HEI module in place of the amp board is a very InGenius solution, the great point is the HEI module is cheap and available at any local auto parts store. If I ever get the nerve to swap TI into my Chevelle I might have to look more into it.
I agree and thought of this early last year but was waiting for it to pop up...and it did. My only concern is the heat generated by the module while putting it in a box. now they were originally on top of a distributor on top of a heat machine but not sure in stop and go traffic it will stay cool enough? Maybe silicone it in smeared between silicone pads with dielectric grease trying to get the heat to the case?

Barry, on the drawing you posted I do not understand the ground with a ring terminal showing it goes on top of the module? And there's a condenser in the TI box?? Thanks!

Steve
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Old Jan 8, 2022 | 10:22 AM
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I installed an HEI module in a TI box used in a 68 W30 442 my buddy owns. The Olds TI box did require a bit of machining to get the HEI to fit. I mounted it to a steel plate with heat sink paste to make sure it did not overheat. It has been working for five years with no issues. It did require some minor rewiring. We used the original TI coil and distributor.
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Old Jan 8, 2022 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
I agree and thought of this early last year but was waiting for it to pop up...and it did. My only concern is the heat generated by the module while putting it in a box. now they were originally on top of a distributor on top of a heat machine but not sure in stop and go traffic it will stay cool enough? Maybe silicone it in smeared between silicone pads with dielectric grease trying to get the heat to the case?

Barry, on the drawing you posted I do not understand the ground with a ring terminal showing it goes on top of the module? And there's a condenser in the TI box?? Thanks!

Steve
I got that diagram from the internet, and the module does have a metal insert and metal flange in that mounting hole, so when mounted in an actual HEI distributor it is grounded. I didn't question the need to ground the module. Since what I actually ended up using was a module mounted to a heatsink and then I grounded the heatsink. Used heatsink compound between the module and heatsink. After a 150+ mile drive on a hot day, I checked the heatsink for heat and it was barely warm. So mounted in a TI amp, with heatsink compound should be more than adequate.

As for the condenser in the TI box, I have no idea why I used that. That particular setup never went "into production". Just carried it for a backup which never got used.

Note, for the "B" & "C" electrical connection on the module, I used an alternator (internal regulator) pigtail, same spacing.
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