I'm replacing the vent weatherstrip and window run fuzzies on the left door, '64 convertible. Two questions which a search didn't really answer. I have the manuals and still can't get this.

1. The long vertical part of the ventilator assembly attaches to the vent frame with 3 small (about 3/8") screws, one through the bumper at the very top, the other two about level with the top of the door. That's these two parts, in case I'm using the wrong terminology:



My problem is the two lower screws don't seem to engage the threads when I try to install them. They are supposed to go through the blue holes at right and screw into the blue holes at left. The rubber of the vent glass sticks up slightly but I can press that down as I'm trying the screws to where there is no interference. So questions here are A) why won't the screws reach the threads, and B) since it's attached to the door at the very bottom, and to the vent assembly at the very top, and has the window glass holding everything snug, is it critical they are installed? I'd prefer to put them in because they "should" be there, but occasionally the prevailing wisdom is "skip it".




2. The glass run channel with fuzzies attaches to the tall vertical channel with two rivets, one at the red arrow in that pic and the other way down at the bottom. The rivets remained when I pried out the old channel, I will drill the old ones out. The new strips don't have holes, I can drill them if necessary. Any reason I should not put a nice bead of black 3M weatherstrip Adhesive along there instead of rivets?

(I don't want to "bubba" things up to where they don't operate right, but for where I'm going with this car, there's no need to duplicate the factory work if a reasonable alternative exists.)

Thanks!

 

Greetings!
I just completed this same operation on my 65. The two screws into the vent frame are needed. The threads may be stripped out so you have two choices. You could purchase longer screws that would go deeper into the frame and grab the threads deeper in the hole. OR go one size larger on the screws and tap out the frame holes to match the new screws. I went with a longer screw and it worked for me. You could try filling hole with JB Weld and then drill and re-tap the hole to fit original screws but I have not had success with that method.
The window run fuzzys are supposed to be riveted into channel but most people will use small screws and nut on outside OR use epoxy like JB Weld to glue the fuzzy into the channel. If you go the epoxy route you can use the rivet holes to secure the fuzzy into the channel with a screw and nut while the epoxy sets up and remove later. Good luck on your project!
RC

 

Thank you rccarson! I am not disputing nor discounting what you say, but is JB Weld really necessary to secure that strip? If it ever had to be replaced again there's no getting it out after that. You feel a good dose of adhesive would not be sufficient to hold it? Not what I was hoping to hear, but if it is so, well, that's why I asked.

 

RRMan, will try my memory from doing this task last Nov. The fuzzie kit I purchased came with rivets. They worked fine. I can even share some if needed. I actually used some bulk ones that were about 1/32” longer. On the screws, I did purchase SS ones just a bit longer. If you can’t size them, I’ll see if I can find the package. Got them from Lowe’s. The real difficulty I had was the flimsy tabs of the rear vent seal. Working to solve those tabs caused the fuzzies to not be as tight so I did add some weatherstrip adhesive to that pass side, behind the fuzzie channel.

Once installed, the vents are not tilted reward enough for a uniform gap at the A pillar. I still need to adjust that. Otherwise it’s straightforward.

 

Thanks Pop! Just double checked my long fuzzy strips and no rivets. And it wasn't until I was doing follow-up "search" that I learned some of those long strips come pre-curved, while others are straight and you have to gently bend them yourself. Guess which type I have?

Those small screws are self-tapping it appears altho a slightly longer replacement might not have to be. I'm headed to the garage to bring in my 3 coffee cans of loose unsorted screws, and a large broiler pan to dump them into. Maybe I'll get lucky and save a trip to the big box store, I've been battling a nasty cold etc for over a week. Negative on the COVID test but it's taking a long time to leave. I figured just work on some of the Corvette stuff I have in the basement, what could possibly go wrong?

 

I had the same issue with the long strip fuzzy tried to bend them and rivet them in ,after about a half hour i gave up and ordered the correct precurved ones like night and day on the install.
I still have the old style straight ones if you need them getting ready to throw them out FREE
Bob

 

How does one install these rivets? I am doing this exact job right now.

Thanks!

 

Where did you buy your vent rubber? Any issues with fitment? I am doing all of this now.

 

ZIP for me. To set rivets, snug, clamp or otherwise secure the fuzzie in place. Insert the rivet in from the fuzzie side, place this on an “anvil” of sort that will not give. From the backside, strike the tube rivet upset tool you can also get from ZIP, or others.

 

I bought through Bair's but it's from Corvette Rubber. The only thing I have in so far is the angle piece you see in that pic and it went in OK - had to push and squeeze but seems to fit fine once it's there. You have to fight to get it all the way into the corner of that acute angle, otherwise the end will stick out. But that's because it's new and stiff. I have not dome the rest, we have not spent much time out at the shop so I've actually been hitting the '66 Chevy truck project heavier since it's here at home. I need one house with one big shop where i can work on everything every day!

 

Found the pack of screws today (I think) and they were Phillips 10 X 32 X 1/2”, stainless.
Don’t waste your time with the straight weatherstrip. I have a couple free too

 

Thanks, local HD should have those screws. I will order the curved runs, just have not done so yet.

I have not done anything with the car for a couple weeks, staying at the house and have been working on the '66 truck project just because it's right here. I need to re-focus on the Vette, we're overdue to spend a few days out there soon.

 

I got that size screws and they won't quite bottom out in the holes. the head stays about 1/16" above flat. I took a punch and tried to enlarge the taper in the channel, thinking that was the isue, but it's the hole itself. I'm going to get a tap and see if I can get a tad bit more depth.

Which vendor did you buy the curved run from?

 

I use ZIP. They are local and offer good service. I’d think most vendors carry them.

 

I have bought from them before. I just want to be sure what I buy THIS time is curved. I'll verify with them that they carry those and get some coming. Thanks!

 

Item WS 765 @ $59.99 , in stock

 

You bought those yourself? The pics show the straight ones.

 

When I did both sides on my 1965 roadster, I had one side with a stripped screw hole as well as your ones in blue above.
I ran in very short course thread small screws and they bit.
I riveted the front felt track over them and all back together.
The pot metal frames will rethread easily. You run the screw in as a self tapper as I did or tap it out.
Marshal

 

Yes. Look at the description, says “precurved”. Came with rivets too .

 

Flies on me, I only looked at the pictures. (an old habit I got from magazines in my teens ) Good deal, thanks!

Marshall, thanks, sounds promising, I'll make it work!