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1. 10a rating is for the switch (electronic relay), not the contacts tor the battery current.
2. So what if the kid behind you turns off your car (or lightning strikes your car while you're driving), you won't even know the kid turned it off until you turn the car off and try to operate something electrical. The car will continue to run on the alternator output.
3. I wouldn't buy the Chinese piece of junk at any price for my Corvette.
4. It's just another device to add into "standby' current draw. It has to draw something to be allowed to turn on when you're ready. I wonder what bypasses that circuit when you try to start it without re-enabling the device? It's like people who use a battery disconnect, but then install a 1a (or whatever) fuse around it to keep their clock running expecting that to keep the battery draw off. Then if you try to start the car, or even open the door, it pops the small fuse.
Id pass. The specs say 10 amp current rating but the heading says 180 amps. A bit contradictory. Old starter current draws can avg 200 to 600 when they start going bad which will take out/ruin that contactor anyway.
1. 10a rating is for the switch (electronic relay), not the contacts tor the battery current.
2. So what if the kid behind you turns off your car (or lightning strikes your car while you're driving), you won't even know the kid turned it off until you turn the car off and try to operate something electrical. The car will continue to run on the alternator output.
3. I wouldn't buy the Chinese piece of junk at any price for my Corvette.
4. It's just another device to add into "standby' current draw. It has to draw something to be allowed to turn on when you're ready. I wonder what bypasses that circuit when you try to start it without re-enabling the device? It's like people who use a battery disconnect, but then install a 1a (or whatever) fuse around it to keep their clock running expecting that to keep the battery draw off. Then if you try to start the car, or even open the door, it pops the small fuse.
Back around 2000 Sears sold a battery with a built in remote controlled kill switch. I bought it! Worked great. Then I got a letter in the mail asking me to bring it back for my money back in full or a new ordinary battery. Evidently there were problems.
Remember that a kill switch on either battery cable will have to pass significant current. The trouble many have with the flee market green ***** is that they are a poor design. If you are unwilling to use a knife switch or drag race disconnect consider cleverly disabling the ignition primary instead. It will be far easier to wire and hide, and current handling capability will be less of a concern.
I went nuts trying to locate the reason for my "hard starts": Timing, A/F mixture, cooling sys, battery/alternator, etc, then realized this corroding POS was the culprit. Once removed, the car has started perfectly every time, hot or cold!
I have a KTNNKG remote battery disconnect switch. Makes it easy to turn on and off your automobile battery from a distance of 50 to 100 metres. I can be guaranteed to keep my batteries off while my car is not in use even if I approach from a distance. The remote control is also offered in a useful shape that may be hung from keychains
I may be wrong but to use a cutoff of any kind on a modern daily driver would mean losing your pre-sets each time, radio stations, seat positions etc.
Also from the looks of it and name of it I'd bet its from China they can keep it.
This is my idea of the perfect cut-off switch.
phil2302
if you buy a good cut off switch it has the fused wire just like yours. If thr car is tried to start the fuse blows and car will not start. Otherwise all your presets stay and your clock keeps runninh.
I went nuts trying to locate the reason for my "hard starts": Timing, A/F mixture, cooling sys, battery/alternator, etc, then realized this corroding POS was the culprit. Once removed, the car has started perfectly every time, hot or cold!
Had this on 3 cars for 10 years - never a problem. Maybe drier climate here? What was the problem with yours?
I went nuts trying to locate the reason for my "hard starts": Timing, A/F mixture, cooling sys, battery/alternator, etc, then realized this corroding POS was the culprit. Once removed, the car has started perfectly every time, hot or cold!
Yep, I had the same problem with the battery kill switch (the different kind with the **** that is turned) on the car when I bought it. Took it off, and viola, no problem. Haven't had one on the car since and I'm ok with that. The wiring on mine is in great shape, so I don't feel the need to cut the battery off when parked in the garage. But to each his own, as I know battery kill switches are popular.
Yep, I had the same problem with the battery kill switch (the different kind with the **** that is turned) on the car when I bought it. Took it off, and viola, no problem. Haven't had one on the car since and I'm ok with that. The wiring on mine is in great shape, so I don't feel the need to cut the battery off when parked in the garage. But to each his own, as I know battery kill switches are popular.
Same here. If I was so worried about the wiring I had to disconnect the battery all the time I'd fix the wiring or rewire the car.
I may be wrong but to use a cutoff of any kind on a modern daily driver would mean losing your pre-sets each time, radio stations, seat positions etc.
Also from the looks of it and name of it I'd bet its from China they can keep it.
This is my idea of the perfect cut-off switch.
I've been using this approach for several years - like minds
