Paint ?s
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 320
Likes: 110
Paint ?s
66 roadster, bare glass then body work 2K high build primer , blocked. Pinholes filled ( thanks csherman) single edge razor blade worked great with glaze. Another primer and blocked with 220. Deck lid and doors off. Want to paint door jams and underside deck lid with tci global single stage urethane. Then put doors and deck lid on use 3M door jam tape and paint whole car. I don’t have paint booth and tci global says not to cut and buff. Oh and the big issue is it is silver metallic. Am I in over my head?
Racer
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 267
Likes: 57
From: cutchogue long island n.y.
YES. VERY OVER YOUR HEAD.
have you ever painted a car before? personally i would not use single stage for silver. i would go base coat clear coat.
2nd you say you block sanded with 220. i would finish with 400 at least. my personal opinion.
if you use single stage what you spray is what you get. if the silver metallic blotches or runs you will never get rid of it.
single stage is great for solid colors. personally i like ppg paint. but to paint a metallic in single stage you better be pretty damn good.
you have to regulate the air fluid mixture just right. what type of gun are you using?
if you never painted a car before PLEASE pay a pro to shoot it for you.
have you ever painted a car before? personally i would not use single stage for silver. i would go base coat clear coat.
2nd you say you block sanded with 220. i would finish with 400 at least. my personal opinion.
if you use single stage what you spray is what you get. if the silver metallic blotches or runs you will never get rid of it.
single stage is great for solid colors. personally i like ppg paint. but to paint a metallic in single stage you better be pretty damn good.
you have to regulate the air fluid mixture just right. what type of gun are you using?
if you never painted a car before PLEASE pay a pro to shoot it for you.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,409
Likes: 1,821
From: Apple Valley, MN
I’d say at least 20 fathoms.
What kind of primer(s) did you use? If none were a sealer, then you will want to apply a sealer before topcoats.
You will most certainly be disappointed with trying to apply a metallic in a single stage. You need to apply clear coats to allow for color sanding, buffing/polishing and UV protection.
A word of caution - catalyzed paints, irrespective of brand/line are VERY dangerous to your health. Do NOT apply without a NIOSH respirator. (N95s are for Covid, NOT paints).
Full disclosure - I have painted many vehicles in garages so it can be done but there is no substitute for a good paint booth.
Having the right gun is only part of the application issues. You need to have a large (60 or 80 gallon) compressor and oil/water filters to avoid contamination. Small compressors will run all the time, heating the air (via the compression) and moisture will condense out in the tank and lines.
Silver is about the most difficult to achieve a uniform appearance. A high quality HVLP gun (like a Sata) is a must.
Paint material costs are ridiculous these days so be prepared for sticker shock.
What kind of primer(s) did you use? If none were a sealer, then you will want to apply a sealer before topcoats.
You will most certainly be disappointed with trying to apply a metallic in a single stage. You need to apply clear coats to allow for color sanding, buffing/polishing and UV protection.
A word of caution - catalyzed paints, irrespective of brand/line are VERY dangerous to your health. Do NOT apply without a NIOSH respirator. (N95s are for Covid, NOT paints).
Full disclosure - I have painted many vehicles in garages so it can be done but there is no substitute for a good paint booth.
Having the right gun is only part of the application issues. You need to have a large (60 or 80 gallon) compressor and oil/water filters to avoid contamination. Small compressors will run all the time, heating the air (via the compression) and moisture will condense out in the tank and lines.
Silver is about the most difficult to achieve a uniform appearance. A high quality HVLP gun (like a Sata) is a must.
Paint material costs are ridiculous these days so be prepared for sticker shock.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,778
Likes: 2,445
From: Northern California CA
YES. VERY OVER YOUR HEAD.
have you ever painted a car before? personally i would not use single stage for silver. i would go base coat clear coat.
2nd you say you block sanded with 220. i would finish with 400 at least. my personal opinion.
if you use single stage what you spray is what you get. if the silver metallic blotches or runs you will never get rid of it.
single stage is great for solid colors. personally i like ppg paint. but to paint a metallic in single stage you better be pretty damn good.
you have to regulate the air fluid mixture just right. what type of gun are you using?
if you never painted a car before PLEASE pay a pro to shoot it for you.
have you ever painted a car before? personally i would not use single stage for silver. i would go base coat clear coat.
2nd you say you block sanded with 220. i would finish with 400 at least. my personal opinion.
if you use single stage what you spray is what you get. if the silver metallic blotches or runs you will never get rid of it.
single stage is great for solid colors. personally i like ppg paint. but to paint a metallic in single stage you better be pretty damn good.
you have to regulate the air fluid mixture just right. what type of gun are you using?
if you never painted a car before PLEASE pay a pro to shoot it for you.
I spent months with hundreds of hours preparing our '63 for paint. I did all the preparation work, primed & blocked numerous times. Used guide coat each blocking session. I did this several times and went up to 500 grit paper.
When it came time to actually spray the color (silver blue), I knew I didn't have enough experience to spray the paint (two stage), correctly.
I was able to contract with an incredible painter who only agreed to paint after he viewed the work I put into the prep.
The guy had/has thousands of hours behind the paint gun. So glad I contracted him for a day, and even happier that he agreed to do the job. Gave me several compliments about my prep work. Again...several hundreds of hours in my prep work. Yet I'm sure a professional could have cut that down to at least half, but I'm not a professional.
Good paint is extremely expensive! Pay a professional to apply the paint, especially if it's a silver color.
Pat
Last edited by ptjsk; Feb 6, 2022 at 11:50 AM.
Melting Slicks<br><img src="/forums/images/ranks/3k-4k.gif" border="0">
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Colorado Springs Colorado
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Probably not what you were hoping to hear, but sounds like damn good advice
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2018
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Agree with all above, but is would only use a fresh air respirator with todays paint.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 320
Likes: 110
It is exactly what I needed to here! I agree with the hours of prep time. Will continue with prep till I am satisfied then get pro to look it over. I am not attached to silver but trim tag is silver. Yes I have painted before imron white but not metallics. Thanks for all advice.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 494
From: Michigan
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
Really like your silver blue paint color. 
I almost painted mine silver metallic, but my painter told me silver paint is almost impossible to color match. Very easy to keep clean and hides most minor scratches.
I almost painted mine silver metallic, but my painter told me silver paint is almost impossible to color match. Very easy to keep clean and hides most minor scratches.
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66 roadster, bare glass then body work 2K high build primer , blocked. Pinholes filled ( thanks csherman) single edge razor blade worked great with glaze. Another primer and blocked with 220. Deck lid and doors off. Want to paint door jams and underside deck lid with tci global single stage urethane. Then put doors and deck lid on use 3M door jam tape and paint whole car. I don’t have paint booth and tci global says not to cut and buff. Oh and the big issue is it is silver metallic. Am I in over my head?
You will need to finish block with 600 - nothing finer - why - you do not want sand scratches - metallic love sand scratches - so if you need to reprime and re block do it #2 - base coat clear coat - DO A SPRAY OUT ! - determine how many coats for coverage - I bet it will be at least 3 and how many clear coats - I rec at least 3
Doing your jams first is smart - you will need to sand back to the jam edge to sand back your overspray - also you will need to back mask your jams so you dont get dry spray or over spray into those nice jams
I would spray the car together - let chance of the panels not matching.
Take your time -
