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Best advice. After that...its the example in the best condition, with the most matching and proper components regardless of year or engine size that you can afford.
Dan
Also this philosophy will save you the most money in the long run
I think you are asking for people to suggest their favorite cars, or the cars they own. I’m not sure thats helpful.
My answer to you, a newbie looking for the best choice for purchase, is buy the best car you can afford.
Overall “best” year cars mean nothing unless you are comparing like cars in top condition. If your budget is entry level, it doesnt matter mow much some people prefer a ‘67 over a ‘64.
1. Inform yourself with the unending amount of available resources these days. 2. Ask questions until you cant think of any more. 3. Always bring a qualified inspector with you if you are bringing your wallet.
I've gotta agree with all of the advice you've been given here, especially having a qualified inspector do a Pre Purchase Inspection for you. I have two 66 Coupes, both inspected by well seasoned NCRS judges. Even if you're not going for a full matching numbers car, they will be able to tell you the good, bad, and ugly about the car, including any potential safety issues due to rust, wear/tear or Bubba "repairs". And, they're usually pretty aware of current market values for the cars they're inspecting. If you find a car you're interested in having inspected, you can ask for a recommendation here on the Forum for someone in the area where the car is located. Lots of helpful and knowledgable folks here.
A good reference book you might want to get your hands on (sometimes available from CF members on the C2 Parts Forum) is: The Complete Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide - Vol. 2 by Noland Adams.
Here is how I looked at it some 13 years ago in a nut shell: the '63s had too many parts exclusive to that year and along with the '64s they didnt have disc brakes or side pipes as an option. The '67s cost more, so I decided to exclude them and spend that extra money on a better condition '65 or '66. This limited, but also made it easier in that my search was only looking for a '65 or '66 coupe. It just had to be rust free and reliable, nom or not. It took 3 years to find such a midyear that I and Pancho thought worthy of his inspection. The rest is history.
1966 427/425 hp, Nassau blue, blue dash, white leather seats and door panels, 4 speed, side pipes, knock off wheels with a red stripe around the tires. Get an early one so you get the cooler styled seat belts instead of the push button ones.
Agreed.
'64 gauges, ***** and door panels were the best. I really don't care for the mushroom cap ***** and flat gauges in my '67. That is all.
The 64 is my second favorite because of your reasons, but the 67 is my favorite because of the "no frills" body, mushroom *****, and flat gauges, but I've been married to a redhead for 53 years, so you may question my sanity.
For Rallysport70, just get a rust free small block car if your looking for a driver. From your handle I suspect you know about vintage car problems, but the C2 is a great platform to build on. (modern power and overdrive transmissions)
One thing that I would suggest is to find one locally, buddy up to the owner, let him know that you are looking to purchase one, maybe grease the wheels with a case of craft beer as an offering and see if the owner will let you drive it. Some people simply don't fit well in these old cars and some are surprised to discover how archaic they are. Some of us wouldn't have anything else, these things are the best. Also a good opportunity to find out if you want a coupe or a convertible. I personally like the idea of a NOM well sorted small-block as a mill, these are pretty bullet proof and there are millions of mods out there to suit your own tastes. Whatever you decide don't get too frustrated, the hunt for the right car is a pretty fun experience. Now go getcha one !
Don't let the drum brake on the 63's and 64's spook you away. My '64 will stop just as well as my '67. Granted if you were road racing or coming down Pikes Peak in a big hurry, the disc are better/stay cooler. But for just cruising in-town and hwy travel the difference is imperceptible...
Don't let the drum brake on the 63's and 64's spook you away. My '64 will stop just as well as my '67. Granted if you were road racing or coming down Pikes Peak in a big hurry, the disc are better/stay cooler. But for just cruising in-town and hwy travel the difference is imperceptible...
…..unless you go thu a big puddle or standing water. But in general I agree with you! Hell, I never drive my 67 in the rain anyway!
Also this philosophy will save you the most money in the long run
