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I have been reading old threads and following several threads on body off restorations trying to get smart enough to lift my body and inspect the frame, do body mounts, brake and fuel lines. I've had the car (64 vert) 30+ years and it hasn't had any major body work to my knowledge. Well I finally got started and as Joe Frazier said "everyone has a plan until they are punched in the face." I knew the driver's side frame area around body bolt 3 had some rust, but the hammer test gave me a bloody nose. Here's what it looks like and now I have to decide whether to preserve it best I can and live with it or do a complete body off and get it repaired.
Best I can tell so far the rest of the frame is solid (hammer test) and the damage is limited to what you see, but I need to get a snake camera and look inside.
Doing a complete body off presents real challenges. I'm working in a residential 2 car garage and would need a Pod for storage. I do not have welding skills and this would be my first extensive car repair. I'm not afraid of jumping in, but don't want to start an extensive project that is not required.
Would appreciate advice on how to proceed. Thanks in advance.
Con
Looking up Bottom of frame looking at body mount 3
It has taken a very long time but I've had the frame repaired, sandblasted and primed. Finding the right people to work on it is as hard as finding quality parts. The primer is a Milspec usually used on subs and other marine applications. Came out looking new.
Now the easy part - clean everything up and put it all back together. Primer; used on submarines coming off the tow Gussets repaired The rest of the frame was solid
There are sections you can use to replace that area, rather than needing a whole replacement chassis. I'll leave it to those more knowledgeable to say whether it can be done without pulling the body off, but I'm doubtful.
From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
If what we're seeing is the extent of the damage then I'd evaluate that as garden variety frame rust. All metal fabricators aren't created equal and though I believe mine could repair your frame with the body on I don't know if there are any good fabricators in your area. I've seen similar rust repaired with the body on.
If what we're seeing is the extent of the damage then I'd evaluate that as garden variety frame rust. All metal fabricators aren't created equal and though I believe mine could repair your frame with the body on I don't know if there are any good fabricators in your area. I've seen similar rust repaired with the body on.
Thanks, I like garden variety. There are a couple fabricators locally but I don't have any experience with them. One has a TV program - Fantomworks. I'll take him the photos.
There are sections you can use to replace that area, rather than needing a whole replacement chassis. I'll leave it to those more knowledgeable to say whether it can be done without pulling the body off, but I'm doubtful.
Yes - I've seen someone use those pieces. My stomach tells me the body will probably be coming off as well.
You have some options, but I think all of them call for pulling the body. Once off you can really assess which way you want to go. 1) repair your frame, 2) buy a good used frame (restomod builders are a good source), or 3) but a new frame (vette products of Michigan).
From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
If the rust extends into the number 3 cross-member then I would agree the body must come off. If it doesn't and the rust doesn't extend to the top of the rail then you may have options. One thing's for sure, you won't know what you've got until someone gets in there and finds out the extent of the bad stuff.
The body needs to come off that frame! That rust is centered around one of the most stressed areas of the frame. Rust is like an iceberg, you only see 10% of it. That frame is rusting from the inside out and has significant thinning just below the kick up. It is probably repairable, but depends on what else you find when you pull the body. Please post lots of pictures for others to see and learn. Good luck!
The body needs to come off that frame! That rust is centered around one of the most stressed areas of the frame. Rust is like an iceberg, you only see 10% of it. That frame is rusting from the inside out and has significant thinning just below the kick up. It is probably repairable, but depends on what else you find when you pull the body. Please post lots of pictures for others to see and learn. Good luck!
I would think it would be hard to get to good metal to effect a meaningful repair in that area without pulling the body. You sandblast that frame and you will be surprised how many more pinholes show up.
Take a pick hammer and tap around. If it doesn’t “Ting” when you hit it, it’s rusted through.
The frame on a convertible is even more critical than on a coupe. I would not take any chances and would bite the bullet and do what is necessary.. these boxed frames are very often rusting from the inside out. What you have revealed with your hammer test I probably about 1/4 of what dipping the frame or sandblasting it would reveal. As far as Fathomworks go, I enjoy the show but believe there are places far better equipped and experienced to do this work and far more economically.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by ghostrider20
I would think it would be hard to get to good metal to effect a meaningful repair in that area without pulling the body. You sandblast that frame and you will be surprised how many more pinholes show up.
Take a pick hammer and tap around. If it doesn’t “Ting” when you hit it, it’s rusted through.
Originally Posted by silver837
How about a bore scope and a drilled hole in the endplates. Check both sides. You can't have to much information in this situation. Best of luck
Originally Posted by Factoid
The body needs to come off that frame! That rust is centered around one of the most stressed areas of the frame. Rust is like an iceberg, you only see 10% of it. That frame is rusting from the inside out and has significant thinning just below the kick up. It is probably repairable, but depends on what else you find when you pull the body. Please post lots of pictures for others to see and learn. Good luck!
I'm afraid you've got little choice but to pull the body off of that frame. In advance you might try the pick hammer in an effort to estimate the extent, but it's almost certainly a lot of rust through as well as a lot of thinning. You don't need to drill a hole as that end plate cap is gone - serving no structural purpose, so you can just punch it out now to run a borescope up in there.
Don, where are pictures of your frame that was shot in the kick-up area? Did your before the frame removal picture look like this extent of through rust?
According to the first post, (and the pics) he has already been in there with the hammer.
What you see below is a really bad feeling, even when I knew before I bought it that the frame was bad and would probably have to be repaired or replaced. You sure don't want to have this happen when you are NOT prepared for it.
Did your before the frame removal picture look like this extent of through rust?
My frame was probably worse than OP's, at least the rear half. (The front half was fine.) It was a good negotiating point when making the purchase, I accepted that it would likely need replacement, but there's always that little bit of you that hopes maybe it won't be quite as bad as you think. NOPE!
Bubba had done his part to extend its life a little:
Back in the seventy's, GM frames rotted so badly that GM offered kits to over-plate the frame at no cost.
A customer brought in a Chevy and we unbolted the body on all points except the front radiator mount and lifted the body about 1 foot in the back and plated almost 1/2 of the frame.
Nothing is impossible for someone with imagination. Kits are out there!
It really looks like the body has to come off to access the total damage. Doing the separation in a two car garage can work if you have the entire garage for as long as it takes. I would also rent a storage facility for the parts that will come off. So you are not tripping over and constantly moving parts around, you need a bay for the frame, a bay for the body and a bay for parts. I would check my local NCRS chapter to find out who does chassis work in your area. The kick ups and frame rails are available and a mobile welder/fabricator could do the work in your garage. Jerry
Appreciate everyone's advice, the consensus being the body comes off. I ordered a bore-scope to take a better look, never pass up the opportunity for a new tool.
I'll start looking for a frame shop in SE Virginia/NE North Carolina. Any recommendations appreciated.
This is a huge decision and commitment. I'll update as I go.
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Frame Rust
Kits are out there!
