67 starting problem
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,679
Likes: 657
From: Blairsville , Georgia
67 starting problem
My battery is fully charged. Connections are good at firewall including red wire. When I turn the key I just get a click and the courtesy lights go out. I then go take the negative battery cable off of the battery and place it back on again. My courtesy lights come back on and then I turn the key to start and rinse and repeat. I am either thinking bad ground at the starter or a bad starter. Any other ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jay
Thanks
Jay
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,994
Likes: 1,500
From: Prescott Arizona
Jay - How old is the battery? When you take a battery into your FLAPS, I believe it's tested by putting a load on it. The static numbers can be fine at a glance, like 12.4 or so, but when they test them, it's typically more than just a VOM showing the charge number.
It's always a pain to haul a battery out of an old Vette but maybe take it down to the local auto parts place and let them test it.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
It's always a pain to haul a battery out of an old Vette but maybe take it down to the local auto parts place and let them test it.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,679
Likes: 657
From: Blairsville , Georgia
I agree with everyone. The battery is about 3 years old and seems to be very strong. I will check all connections at starter and solenoid and then remove battery for a load test. I am just confused why the courtesy lights go out and I get the click and then I remove the negative cable and put it back and the lights come back on.
Thanks for all of the help.
Jay
Thanks for all of the help.
Jay
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 318
From: Longmont Colorado
before you remove anything I would use an insulated screwdriver to join the contacts on the solenoid and have someone then turn the ignition on . . if you then get the starter to turn over it is not the starter but rather the solenoid . . if the starter doesnt turn over, the problem is the starter itself. Diagnose before removing parts! I know in my car removing the battery is a pain, maybe not so much in yours.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,679
Likes: 657
From: Blairsville , Georgia
Well here is my update. I cleaned all of the starter/solenoid terminals and wire connectors. I tested the battery under load and it is very good and strong. I cleaned battery cables and terminals. I was ready to start and turned the key and had exactly the same result. Courtesy lights go out and a click and nothing else. I was lying on my back with tools in hand to pull the starter and something told me to go and take the key out of the ignition and then put it back in. I did exactly that and the car started immediately as normal. I guess my ignition switch is starting to go bad even though I have never had that problem before. I then started it another half dozen times over the next hour and it started every time.
Now on to the next problem. I need help from a Holley carburetor expert. It is leaking gas from the vent of the bowl closest to the firewall. I guess that the float is sticking. I gently tapped on it to see if I could free it but the vent cap just came right off and then was leaking even more. I gave up at that point and figured I was not going to be lucky a second time in one day. I will start a new carb problem thread.
Thanks to everyone who helped me with my starting issues.
Jay
Now on to the next problem. I need help from a Holley carburetor expert. It is leaking gas from the vent of the bowl closest to the firewall. I guess that the float is sticking. I gently tapped on it to see if I could free it but the vent cap just came right off and then was leaking even more. I gave up at that point and figured I was not going to be lucky a second time in one day. I will start a new carb problem thread.
Thanks to everyone who helped me with my starting issues.
Jay
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,428
Likes: 2,597
From: Really Central IL Illinois
Typical of bad connection at the battery or the starter. Clean the battery posts and connections at the starter and ground to the bellhousing. If you still have the problem, put a jumper cable between the negative and a good ground and try it. Then put a jumper cable between the positive post and the large terminal at the starter. This will tell you if you have a bad cable on either side of the battery. I use NO-OX (or a good electrical contact grease) on the battery posts and connections to improve the connection. Just a guess.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,428
Likes: 2,597
From: Really Central IL Illinois
I don't see how the lamps are tied to the ignition switch. I think you are still looking for a bad ground or something common to both. The ignition switch sends 12v to the solenoid (purple wire) in the start position, but has nothing to do with the lamps. Anyway, hope you have it fixed.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,679
Likes: 657
From: Blairsville , Georgia
I don't see how the lamps are tied to the ignition switch. I think you are still looking for a bad ground or something common to both. The ignition switch sends 12v to the solenoid (purple wire) in the start position, but has nothing to do with the lamps. Anyway, hope you have it fixed.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Jay
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,428
Likes: 2,597
From: Really Central IL Illinois
If you loose power to everything, it could be the red wire contact in the firewall connector in the back of the fuse box. There are multiple posts on here about it. Other than that, the battery cables, connections at the battery and starter and feed from the horn relay are common. Hoping one of the expert electrical types chime in for you.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1,764
From: Central Michigan
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Since the starter heavy leads don't go through the ammeter I doubt it would show a -40 amp draw I'm thinking. My neighbor had the same issue with his C3. Turned out the wire that activates the starter solenoid was rubbing against the block and wore through the insulation for a short. Was able to confirm it by unplugging the coupler (don't know if a C2 has one) to the solenoid wires and the draw stopped. Just a thought.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 645
Likes: 54
From: Greensboro NC
Veteran
Ive had the same problem with 67...........checked everything finally determined it was the red battery wire it was aged out it had started to corrode on the inside just enough not let a full charge to the starter , changed it out and problem solved
Just mt two scents worth
aclassicnut
Just mt two scents worth
aclassicnut