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Rebuilt engine will be installed soon.
'Know how to prime the oil by turning the oil pump thru the distributor hole. BUT how do you prime the fuel for first start-up?
Or a mustard or ketchup or hair saloon chemical type bottle with a small dispenser tip.
That is what I use. A pint clear plastic lab squeeze bottle with a 8-10 inch length of small bore clear Tygon tubing on the discharge end. Bottle marked off in 2 oz increments with a magic marker. Fill with about 8 oz gas, and add 2-3 oz to both primary and secondary sides thru the bowl vents. The tubing allows you to keep the bottle upright and read the volume marks.
I have also successfully used a large lab syringe, but it is a bit more messy.
That is what I use. A pint clear plastic lab squeeze bottle with a 8-10 inch length of small bore clear Tygon tubing on the discharge end. Bottle marked off in 2 oz increments with a magic marker. Fill with about 8 oz gas, and add 2-3 oz to both primary and secondary sides thru the bowl vents. The tubing allows you to keep the bottle upright and read the volume marks.
I have also successfully used a large lab syringe, but it is a bit more messy.
If the engine has not been run on an engine stand to break in the cam you better have 15-40 diesel oil in it and run it at about 2000 rpms or so for about 20 minutes to break in the cam. This is very important for future engine life.
If the engine has not been run on an engine stand to break in the cam you better have 15-40 diesel oil in it and run it at about 2000 rpms or so for about 20 minutes to break in the cam. This is very important for future engine life.
Thanks Andy,
I'm up to speed on the break-in. Any and all advise is welcomed.
Just thought I would make sure. I don't know your age ,but a lot of younger car guys don't know this stuff. No offense intended. I have also had good results priming my Chevrolets with an old distributor with the shaft turned down to 1/2 inch. Seems the oiling tools sometimes don.t fit quite like a factory distributor.
Just thought I would make sure. I don't know your age ,but a lot of younger car guys don't know this stuff. No offense intended. I have also had good results priming my Chevrolets with an old distributor with the shaft turned down to 1/2 inch. Seems the oiling tools sometimes don.t fit quite like a factory distributor.
Thanks again for the info.
Re: my age...in 1965 when I was a senior in high school I worked and saved and bought a 1963 Stingray roadster.
Kept it for three years then decision time - keep the Vette or go to school, I made the right choice.
I would call this project (a 1965 frame-off roadster) a mid-life crisis but I'm w a y past that.
That is what I use. A pint clear plastic lab squeeze bottle with a 8-10 inch length of small bore clear Tygon tubing on the discharge end. Bottle marked off in 2 oz increments with a magic marker. Fill with about 8 oz gas, and add 2-3 oz to both primary and secondary sides thru the bowl vents. The tubing allows you to keep the bottle upright and read the volume marks.
I have also successfully used a large lab syringe, but it is a bit more messy.
Larry
You can also fill a Holly through the float level inspection ports, and the AFB through the bowl vents until the accelerator pump works or the primary mains dribble. The fuel pump should prime and flow before the float bowls empty.
Timing can be at TDC for the no load varied high idle cam break over 20 minutes. The advance can be set after the cam break in.
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