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Regarding the plug - I've read that reading a plug for rich/lean performance needs to be done at the end of a wide open throttle run (e.g., drag strip) with the engine shut down immediately. Otherwise you're reading other running conditions (i.e., idle to low RPM). So my question for the OP is, what condition are you wanting to evaluate by reading the plugs?
It’s much harder to read plugs today with the lack of lead, cleaner fuels, and detergent additives than back in the good old days when you could practically see the dinosaur tooth marks on the plugs.
That said, your plug looks good, perhaps a bit lean. And that said, too much octane not only wastes money it can delay flame propagation eroding power. Also, this strange obsession to avoid any ethanol is puzzling. Fuels with 10% ethanol have been proven safe and non-corrosive in older engines in every test performed. More than 10% however, can cause problems with older seals and materials. I run 93 octane with 10% ethanol in my L72 with no issues as I have in every high performance engine I have owned over the decades since it has become a standard additive with zero issues. And finally, 11:1 compression in an oem engine is questionable at best with 93 octane today measured equivalent to 98 octane back in the day means you have no issues even at 91 octane.
running lean, I don't want to cause any damage. The car was running rich before excessive smoke idle, black plugs carbon.
Let me say this differently. A carburetor has systems that vary the amount of fuel depending on driving conditions (i.e,. idle, low speed cruise, high speed cruise, wide open throttle). It is possible for a specific carb to run rich in one condition and lean in another. Reading the plugs will tell you most about the condition you were in before the engine was shutdown. So if you cruise around for a half hour and then let it idle for five minutes before you shut it down, you'll know more about the idle mixture than the cruise mixture. . . . It sounds like you are concerned about general cruising conditions. The surest way to find out if your carb is tuned correctly for the variety of conditions you may encounter is to have it run on a dyno with the ability to read the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust. And unless you are intimately familiar with idle circuits, power valves, jets, etc., I suggest you find a reliable carb guru to adjust your carb to its nominal stock configuration.
Your plug looks perfect. If you don't have any surging or "trailer hitching" at light part throttle cruising, like a steady 60 to 70 on the highway, you're not running too lean.
That and unless the gas has lead, the octane won't change the plug appearance at alll.
Keep in mind that the Chevrolet L79 was advertised at 11:1 compression but in fact most measure in the 10.3 to 10.5:1 ratio. With a proper tune yours should work well on premium gasoline and save you some money.
11:1 sounded good but was optimistic and overstated by GM. Maybe on your rebuild they shaved your heads and you have higher than normal compression but probably not.
Mark