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This summer I had a small problem with the igntion harness at the fuse block. The problem is the pin-plug at the fuse block. The Main fuse block feeder (red wire) is loose inside the plug again. It apears as though it has gotten hot and melted the plastic pin-plug housing. This allows that particular pin (red one) to move around. This is no good. The car will go dead at any given time. To fix the problem all you have to do is wiggle the pin-plug.
I would like to find a NEW pin-plug for the harness. The only problem is I cannot find one. I called M&H electrical and they said they make harness' but do not sell parts.
If they do not make "just" the pin-plug am I stuck buying a new ignition harness??? I also thought about using some adhesive to "glue" the pin mount in it's place inside the cannon plug. I tried something like this this summer and it did not work very well.
This is how I fixed mine. I just hard wired the red wire. I soldered the same gauge wire to the engine side, pushed it thru the firewall at a convient spot and soldered it to the corresponding wire on the dash side. No more intermittant starting problems, no more poor lighting or charging problems. One of the best things I have done for this thing. Been this way for almost 3 years now. :cheers:
I had a simular problem with mine that I reconnected and reinsulated behind the fuse box, Then I started having problems with back up lights and found more overheated wires behind the fuse box. I felt I was fairly warned and just changed both harnesses out. Its a 2 day job thats not very hard and comes with a big sence of releif.
GL
Holler if you need help
I am thinking about going with a new ignition harness. Should be a simple project. (Famous last words). M&H ignition harness is 130.00 skins. Same price for the one out of Paragon.
GL, did you do the ENTIRE harness, I mean the entire car out just the igntion and cockpit. Was routing the bigest problem, I am asuming it is just plug and loop??
You would think that someone would sell the plug end and some new pins that attach to the respective wires. This way you would have a fresh conection and new pins on one side of the plug. In my perfect world it would be a 10 dollar kit.
...this is not my usual rant because if i had a problem with one of the firewall connectors, today i would probably try bypassing it and do the solder deal BUT, having had a dash fire (i will only EVER have one dash fire), my advice is to suck it up and drop the coin......cheap insurance and why quibble over something that is clearly safety related?
...this is not my usual rant because if i had a problem with one of the firewall connectors, today i would probably try bypassing it and do the solder deal BUT, having had a dash fire (i will only EVER have one dash fire), my advice is to suck it up and drop the coin......cheap insurance and why quibble over something that is clearly safety related?
(QUOTE) ...this is not my usual rant because if i had a problem with one of the firewall connectors, today i would probably try bypassing it and do the solder deal BUT, having had a dash fire (i will only EVER have one dash fire), my advice is to suck it up and drop the coin......cheap insurance and why quibble over something that is clearly safety related?
Agree Kid and I did replace my main harness. The faulty connector for me was the ign red wire only, (it was loose in it's socket) so I just hard wired the one. There is NO chance of a fire with a solid wire IMO but if I had a few more loose in the block I would have replaced that harness also.
Ghostrider 20
I changed out the main and rear harnesses ( firewall&back) everything was plug and -play but first I used masking tape and marked where everything went on the old harness and then pulled it and transfered it to the new harness I also cleaned up and painted the cluster and glove box since it had to be taken out anyway of course new carpeting since I was routing the rear harness ( but that isn't necessary) my carpet needed it. To pull the cluster first drop the steering colum then replace the cluster screws with 1/4x20 x6in. screw stock which will let you pull the cluster and old harness streight out and let you have an easy time taping and marking before you disconnect anything electrical. :seeya
I would like to say I made these tricks up but the fact is I got all this info right here on the Forum and feel free to ask all the questions you want these guys are very knowledgeable..... :flag
Fresh harnesses (on both sides) are the "correct" cure, and will no doubt outlast your ownership of the car. However, this "red wire" syndrome is the most common cause of electrical problems in old Corvettes, as the red wire is the main power feed, and when the connection corrodes, the resistance increases, which generates heat, which melts the plastic cavity around the red wire connector. You can also cure it without replacing the harnesses by hard-wiring the red wire and running it through the firewall adjacent to the connector (with a grommet), and you'll never have the problem again. :thumbs:
Thanks agian for all the advice. I just ordered an ignition harness from M&H. Now, some advice on installing the harness. Should I just leave the old one hooked up and follow it with the new one? Then swap as I go along?
You need the AIM or LL's color coded diagram. The harness looks like a box of multi-colored snakes when you take it out of the box, but every wire is color coded and the diagram tells you exactly where to put each one. The only way to do this IMO is to just take the old harness completely out first. Then you lay out the new harness under the dash and start plugging in according to color. You'll find out quickly that all the grey wires are dash lights, etc. The easiest way is to have your gage cluster hanging on two 1/4 X 20 6" long bolt stock. Keep it about 3-4" away from flush and you will be able to get under and snap all the wires in place. It's really quite simple once you get going. No Fear :D Actually for me the hardest thing was tucking the wires out of the way so as to not pinch them when closing up the cluster but it all went quite well. It was cool to have everything light up and work correctly.
Mark, with the wiring disgram, it is simple. If you don't have it, you could take photos of the existing harness and then copy it. It is really pretty difficult to screw up.
I did a 67 coupe two years ago in less than an hour.
I am just installing the Ignition harness. I am not doing anything under the dash. From the description of the item I ordered it is just the engine compartment ignition harness. Of the two cannon type plugs on the firewall it is the harness with the main power wire. The fuse block side looks good, no damage and no corrosion.
After some investigation I think JohnZ's conclusion is on the money.
THis summer if you remember I had a high rom cut-out that was due to a voltage problem. Upon some investigatoin of the fuse block cannon plugs I noticed they were corroded. I cleaned the pins and then noticed the red-wire problem. The poor contacts led to a "resistor" condition and then a heat build up that led to the melting of the harness plug. Then of course without the plug having suficient tolerances to hold the pin in posistion a good contact can no loger be achieved.
I was wondering, even new, these contacts are kind of cheesy. Not much of a contact surface. I am not running anything inside the car that would really require alot of juice. Just the ignition and lights. I can imagine guys with power everything, and then a cd player etc.
I am wondering if the wire circumvent is a better option, just hardwire the darn thing with some 12 gauge.
Whatever path you choose, be absolutley certain that therer is going to be no risk of any fire. And I'm not trying to scare you; just being ultra cautious. Any, again, buy a good fire extinguisher. Ya never know and yaa don't wanna.