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[C2] Differential

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Old May 30, 2022 | 03:48 PM
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Hy guys. I've got my dads '64, which he bought new and raced in SCCA B production in the mid to late '60s. (Got a previous thread about 17" Torq Thrusts going too). Anyway, there's a TON of play in the axle stub shafts, and the posi is barely doing anything, practically an open diff at this point. I assume the worn posi has something to do with the loose stub shafts. Now assuming it's actually a '64 diff, it seems nobody will touch them because of parts availability. No worries, it's not a numbers matching car, and I'd prefer 3.55 over the current 3.70 anyway. So my question is, what years will interchange, including the much more available C3 diffs? I see vague mention of different yokes in various years, but nothing concrete. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks
Scott
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Old May 30, 2022 | 04:17 PM
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Look for a 71-78
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Old May 30, 2022 | 05:21 PM
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They can be rebuilt. The posi's were DANA and junk. The ring and pinion were junk. However, the housing and axles should be good. Now excessive axle endplay may be the axles but original 64's were pretty good, maybe your Dad had some work done to it years ago, especially if it was raced.
I would remove it and pull the cover to see just what you got. They all had issues so don't expect to get someone's used diff and bolt it in without checking it. Any 63-79 will bolt into your car. You will need to get the better 69-79 front bracket. If you look for a used diff look for 72-79 but the other years will fit, they had weaker posi's in them.
If you have any questions just let me know.
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Old May 31, 2022 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
They can be rebuilt. The posi's were DANA and junk. The ring and pinion were junk. However, the housing and axles should be good. Now excessive axle endplay may be the axles but original 64's were pretty good, maybe your Dad had some work done to it years ago, especially if it was raced.
I would remove it and pull the cover to see just what you got. They all had issues so don't expect to get someone's used diff and bolt it in without checking it. Any 63-79 will bolt into your car. You will need to get the better 69-79 front bracket. If you look for a used diff look for 72-79 but the other years will fit, they had weaker posi's in them.
If you have any questions just let me know.
Thank you! This is very helpful. Since it was raced, I have no idea if it's the original unit from '64, but I kinda suspect it may be as the car did come with 3.70, and I believe that's what this is. It's a shame as the gears and bearings are all quiet, just a worn posi and massive play on the axle shafts. You say an Eaton is a drop in? (assuming correct gear pattern, of course)
BTW, am I correct in thinking that a worn posi would create excessive axle play as I assume the side gears sink further into the carrier as the clutches wear?
Scott

Last edited by MaxLean; May 31, 2022 at 04:31 PM.
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Old May 31, 2022 | 06:04 PM
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Scott,
I would be surprised if it's still the 64 but you never know. You can look at the lower LH corner of the diff for the casting date and the stamping on the bottom. However, it can still be a 64 housing with new internals. The only way you're going to know is to remove the diff and pull the cover for a look. send me some pictures if you do and I can tell you what I see.
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Old Jun 1, 2022 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
Scott,
I would be surprised if it's still the 64 but you never know. You can look at the lower LH corner of the diff for the casting date and the stamping on the bottom. However, it can still be a 64 housing with new internals. The only way you're going to know is to remove the diff and pull the cover for a look. send me some pictures if you do and I can tell you what I see.
It's probably going to be a while before I tear into it as I'm seriously considering the Ridetech setup and I'd like to drop the diff only once. and do it all at the same time. BTW, what exactly causes the axle play?
Scott

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Old Jun 1, 2022 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxLean
It's probably going to be a while before I tear into it as I'm seriously considering the Ridetech setup and I'd like to drop the diff only once. and do it all at the same time. BTW, what exactly causes the axle play?
Scott
I rebuilt a 1974 rear for someone and it had excessive end play on the output shafts. This is what I found and it was a real pain to get the shafts out. They were worn so bad the snap ring grooves are gone.
GTR1999, I was told that the 70's side shaft were not properly hardened on the ends, is this true? These shaft tell me it was true.
Joe



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Old Jun 1, 2022 | 05:01 PM
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It's true, original 70-79's were lightly case hardened and by 50k miles it was gone. The earlier ones are a little better but by 74 they were poorly hardened. By the time they wear to the snap ring you have to watch that the axle doesn't crash and grind into the housing.

The 63 to 69's were much better, some have worn but not as bad as the 70's. I have rebuilt original c2 diffs with over 100k miles and still had to fit the original axles to the tuned posi's I built.
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Old Jun 1, 2022 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxLean
It's probably going to be a while before I tear into it as I'm seriously considering the Ridetech setup and I'd like to drop the diff only once. and do it all at the same time. BTW, what exactly causes the axle play?
Scott
Axle end play comes from poor posi setup, worn axles, worn posi cross shaft holes. Stock built posi's, new loaded posi's are not the best.
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