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In the early years, Chevy used two different motor mounts. The “short and wide” version measures 2⅝ inches between the ears, and 1¾ inches from the engine mount surface to the center of the mounting-bolt hole. The “tall and narrow” mount measures 2⅜ inches between the mount ears, and 2 3/16 inches from the engine mount surface to the center of mounting-bolt hole. Simply measure your old mounts to choose the correct replacement. If you don’t have the old mounts, measure the width of the chassis frame stands. Remember, proper engine angle and header fitment depend on choosing the correct mount.
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
I have a 502 Gen1 in my 65 stock chassis. The 65 originally came with a Small Block. This is the motor mount I used. I searched for 67 and this worked fine for me. I also bought some new ARP Motor Mount Bolts to go with the Polyurethane Mounts. Don't know if this will help. Just My $.02 worth..
In the early years, Chevy used two different motor mounts. The “short and wide” version measures 2⅝ inches between the ears, and 1¾ inches from the engine mount surface to the center of the mounting-bolt hole. The “tall and narrow” mount measures 2⅜ inches between the mount ears, and 2 3/16 inches from the engine mount surface to the center of mounting-bolt hole. Simply measure your old mounts to choose the correct replacement. If you don’t have the old mounts, measure the width of the chassis frame stands. Remember, proper engine angle and header fitment depend on choosing the correct mount.
Thanx! I think I probably have the wrong mounts. They are 2 5/8 wide but only 1 11/16 high. Everything is in and looks good except the McJacks header will not clear the steering box . This may be my answer.
Are those the McJacks shorty version? I have he short ones and they clear my Borgeson box.
I know you said Doc was cranky, and I’m not sure when you had your last interaction with him, but my experience with them has been the complete opposite. They have been great to work with. I would give them a call or send an email to see what they have. His wife answers the phone when I had a question. If she didn’t know the answer, she would ask Doc and either call me back or he would reply in an email. He even told me to call him about the differences in some parts I had since I’m modifying my car and gave me some cheaper alternatives. We talked for awhile and he said he semi retired around 2001 and doesn’t answer the phone anymore. I asked if it was better to order over the phone or online and if I recall correctly, they have not done phone orders since the late 2000’s.
I got the 65 - 69 Corvette Big Block 2" Primaries, Factory Cast Iron Replacements for BBC. I am waiting for McJacks to open up & I will give them a call & they should be able give me a definitive answer if I need the 2 3/16 tall version. That will get me another 1/2 higher & should clear my stock steering box. And I must have caught Doc on a bad day. I only called him once and it was many, many years ago.
Yep, those look identical.... McJacks still not answering phone.... Still got nothing. I may have to put power steering on? The good news is the oil pan cleared no problem But while I was watching that I banged up my header & I will have to redo the ceramic coating
I spent the afternoon texting pic's back & forth with Jack ( McJack's) while he measured his 67 steering box location & I measured mine. He did show a lot of concern & was really trying to help figure this out, but I had to convince him that this was a no hit car & the frame was not tweaked. Both steering boxes locations matched up so the consensus is the motor needs to move forward to clear the header. I will loosen up the motor & trans mounts this evening & see if I can wiggle the engine forward. If that doesn't work I will order some of the slotted mounts from Doc Rebuild. The Zip ones I have do not have a slot. MAN!! Nothing is ever easy on these old cars I will post again when this is resolved so maybe it will help someone else who is having the same headache.
That blows on dinging up the manifold. I scuffed the coating on mine when I wasn’t paying attention when I tightened the bolts. I had to install the driver side by coming up from the bottom. The passenger side dropped on from the top. I think my Borgeson box sticks out more than factory. I will try and get out later this afternoon and see if I can measure the width on my mounts and let you know. I agree with you on the nothing easy part as I am in the middle of the one step forward and two steps back mode right now.
I loosened all the mounts & got the engine to move approximately 1/16th of an inch forward & I need about 1/4 more. I ordered the Doc rebuild mounts so we will see what happens. If anyone has a Mark VI ZZ502 & has used McJack's headers plz chime in. I saw threads where the earlier 502's used McJack's and they were fine. If the new mounts do not do the trick I will either go to the BFH or an exhaust shop & see what they can do & get it recoated. McJack said I can return them if they are not scratched, but I am way past that. I may start a new thread on this if I find a solution, but I am still thinking it is a mount issue though. Zips products just always seem to be close, but just not quite right. Hope they are not a sponsor.
So I just took some measurements as best as possible from the driver side. My opening between the tabs on the mount look to be about 2-11/16 ish. The thing is, one tab appears to be square with the motor face side and the other tab seems to be spread out a little near the end opposite the engine side, if that makes sense. They both appear this way and I wonder if when the engine and trans were on a huge angle resting on the horns if they would have opened a little? I fought that thing for several hours till finally getting the right height and angle they just sort of popped on. I get the same measurement as this pic you posted below. I thought ZZ502 and 427 were the same block so hopefully a different mount will fix your issue.
Thanx for that info Elwood & going above & beyond trying to help me.... I am now thinking with the mounts, being 1/8 wider than the horn IE 2 5/8 on a 2 1/2 horn, when I torqued the through bolt down my tabs on the mount pulled/ bent in from the back side & not the front causing the misalignment. 1/8 can make a huge difference down the road. This time I will do what you did & NOT tighten down the though bolt on the horn until everything is lined up. BTW my mounts slid on easily... took me about 5 minutes to drop the engine in by myself..... Guess I got lucky, but I still have the body off which probably helps a ton.
Fixed... I think. Got the mounts in from Doc and they were an 1/8 inch too wide like I expected. I put a 1/8 alignment shim on the front side between the mount & the frame horn to get the motor forward as far as possible. Header was still hitting but not as bad. I had to put a 1/8 thick lock washer under the bottom bolt on the steering box to tilt it out a little bit & now the McJack headers clear by a hair. I just hope this doesn't mess up alignment my steering wheel when eventually put it in. I don't think in 1967 these cars were made to exact tolerances so there should be some wiggle room. If I am wrong I will get the BFH out and dent in the header.
I don't believe the frame horns have to be tight against the mount. Just torque the lock nut as needed and leave it, it's not going anywhere. My experience with small and big blocks is they all have a little wiggle room between the mount and the horn.
I don't believe the frame horns have to be tight against the mount. Just torque the lock nut as needed and leave it, it's not going anywhere. My experience with small and big blocks is they all have a little wiggle room between the mount and the horn.
I had to put in the shim on the driver side to keep the engine forward as far as possible. The last set of mounts were thinner metal & let it come backward when tightened & I couldn't get the header in. The passenger side I left as is with a 1/16 gap on either side.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
But while I was watching that I banged up my header & I will have to redo the ceramic coating 
I will post again when this is resolved so maybe it will help someone else who is having the same headache.
