[C1] Door Striker
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 32
Likes: 10
From: Long Island NY
Theres a tool for it, an impact driven screwdriver with a few different tips. They sell at harbor freight or other tool stores. Its a hammer shock type device that would break the screw loose. Go easy at first. It should do the trick.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 810
From: Justin, Tx
Other option to an impact screwdriver is to put a larger than normal philips head screwdriver on the screws then tap/hit the end of the screw driver. You should be able to hit it pretty hard without damaging anything. Then put a vice on the shaft of the screwdriver and push on the end with your body weight (so it doesn't slip in the screw) and turn on the vice grip. Also, If you have a small can of WD40 or the like, you could possibly squirt from the back after removing the gas tank cover.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 904
From: Warminster PA
Many battery powered drills these days have an impact setting. You might want to try that. I have a couple Milwaukee 18v drills and have had success using the impact setting to loosen things that I couldn't with a regular screwdriver. Also (without going out to the shop to check) I believe the screw heads are for a #3 phillips - make sure you are using the correct tip.
Another trick that works sometimes is to tighten the screw first. May break the threads loose. Many screwdrivers have a hex on the shaft you can put a wrench on for additional leverage.
I don't remember if you can see the backside of the striker if you remove the seat - if so maybe you can get some PB blaster on the back side.
Tom
Another trick that works sometimes is to tighten the screw first. May break the threads loose. Many screwdrivers have a hex on the shaft you can put a wrench on for additional leverage.
I don't remember if you can see the backside of the striker if you remove the seat - if so maybe you can get some PB blaster on the back side.
Tom
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,001
Likes: 1,056
From: Arlington TX
2024 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 Restomod of the Year Finalist
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I tried all of the above on mine and if you saw how my screws were corrosion welded to the nutplate, you could see why none worked. I removed the wheel and line sighted to the wheel well right behind that striker. Cut a 3” x 5” square out with my jigsaw and a thin blade and then you have access to the backside. I then bonded the fg piece back in, swept in bondo to fill the sawcut. Can’t even tell it.
if you want pics of my project, I’ll post them here. Good luck!
if you want pics of my project, I’ll post them here. Good luck!
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 113
Likes: 7
From: University Park, TX
I managed to get 2 of them out today, thanks for the ideas. I worked from the door side. They first loosened up only little, and then got stuck. I could not even screw them back in. I used WD40 from the little opening, an impact driver with a large bit and a strong heat gun (covering the surroundings). One Phillips bit even broke, fortunately screw heads are holding. Tomorrow I will try PB and more heat.
Impact driver: https://amzn.to/432y1E8
Bits: https://amzn.to/42aDhV0
Impact driver: https://amzn.to/432y1E8
Bits: https://amzn.to/42aDhV0
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,001
Likes: 1,056
From: Arlington TX
2024 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 Restomod of the Year Finalist
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
According to tests, the best penetrating oil to use is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 374
Likes: 88
From: Hye Texas
I have the exact same problem with a 61 I’m restoring. I’ve tried everything listed here and more. They won’t budge even with an impact.
I’ve decided to leave them and mask them off before paint. I don’t want to risk breaking the bolt or nut plate or the fiberglass.
I’ve decided to leave them and mask them off before paint. I don’t want to risk breaking the bolt or nut plate or the fiberglass.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 547
Likes: 264
From: Quebec, Canada
It is a bit tricky but you can drill out the bolts and install new nut plates. You can fish the new plates through the big round holes in the floor of the gas tank compartment. The driver door is relatively easy as you can do it through the hole where the gas filler hose goes. I've done it on my '61. I assume you '60 is the same.
I spoke too fast. You can't fish the nut plates through the holes in the bottom of the gas tank compartment. But I did get the one installed on the driver side by fishing it through the hole where the gas filler hose goes.
Apologies.
I spoke too fast. You can't fish the nut plates through the holes in the bottom of the gas tank compartment. But I did get the one installed on the driver side by fishing it through the hole where the gas filler hose goes.
Apologies.
Last edited by scowser; May 25, 2023 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Correction
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,454
Likes: 315
From: Scottsdale AZ
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 113
Likes: 7
From: University Park, TX
I am happy to inform that the 3rd screw is also out. Between PB, WD40, heat gun, impact drill; I finally attacked the last one with a vise-grip as it was a few millimeters out and I was able to grip the head. Those screws are seriously sturdy, I guess steel.
