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While you are back there doing an inspection, look at the trailing arm bushings and the shims on each side of the bushing. As the car stops and starts you will hear a clunking sound as the suspension loads and unloads. Jerry
I only took one pic earlier, before heading out to dinner. I’ll take more later when we get home.
The trailing arm shims are there, and tight. I tried prying on them but they didn’t budge. There looks to be a gap but maybe there are additional shims down in that pocket that I can’t see. I tried prying on the trailing arms too and they didn’t budge either.
I appreciate all the input guys. I’ve always done all of my own work and try to keep things in top top shape. Just yesterday I changed out an O2 sensor on my 2015 Z06. That was a chore, since my hands didn’t fit up in there very well.
Figured it out, and boy do I feel stupid. Up until this point I have had the car on the lift, and jacked up with the jack on the jack tray to do my looking around. Finally a little while ago I thought I’d test drive here on my little dead end road in front of my house again, and listen for the sound. It was definitely coming from the left rear. So I pulled back into the shop, but this time left it on concrete. I jacked her up and proceeded to pop the center cap out, to remove the pin and start knocking the knock off loose. To my surprise the pin was missing! The wheel also felt a tiny bit loose on the hub. So apparently the pin fell out and my wheel had a very minor looseness to it. After putting it back together tightly, she does NOT make that sound any more on acceleration nor on deceleration. Glad I found it, and thank you all for the hints at things to look for. Sometimes it’s the obvious. This is exactly why I don’t ignore strange sounds that I start testing on vehicles. It could have been a bad day if that wheel had come loose!
Figured it out, and boy do I feel stupid. Up until this point I have had the car on the lift, and jacked up with the jack on the jack tray to do my looking around. Finally a little while ago I thought I’d test drive here on my little dead end road in front of my house again, and listen for the sound. It was definitely coming from the left rear. So I pulled back into the shop, but this time left it on concrete. I jacked her up and proceeded to pop the center cap out, to remove the pin and start knocking the knock off loose. To my surprise the pin was missing! The wheel also felt a tiny bit loose on the hub. So apparently the pin fell out and my wheel had a very minor looseness to it. After putting it back together tightly, she does NOT make that sound any more on acceleration nor on deceleration. Glad I found it, and thank you all for the hints at things to look for. Sometimes it’s the obvious. This is exactly why I don’t ignore strange sounds that I start testing on vehicles. It could have been a bad day if that wheel had come loose!
That wheel was installed improperly if someone was counting on that pin to secure the KO spinner.
Just get the spinner good and tight and throw away those silly, worthless pins.
Michael
To add to Jim's suggestion, you might check every KO wheel to make sure they are indexed properly. That is to say that the guide pins on the KO adapter are aligned in the correct holes in the wheels. If you don't have the correct long lug nuts to hold the adapters on, it is easy to get the wheel indexed on the short lug nuts instead of the guide pins. That will allow the wheel to rock just a little and keep the spinner from being the correct torque or from going on far enough.
When you say you have tightened them, what do you consider tight? Don't be too gentle!! I believe the manual calls for 8 sharp blows, but you can usually tell when it's tight by the sound and watching for any further movement of the spinner. If you are scared of damaging the spinner, it can be replaced cheaper than a fender.......
Gary
Good morning! I’ve got a lingering clunking sound when I either accelerate or slow down rapidly in one of my ‘63’s. I’ve changed the snubber rubber, and the main drive shaft u joints. I still hear it but only when it’s an abrupt hitting of the brakes or accelerator.
I have owned this car for several years and not yet changed the rear diff fluid. Thinking it couldn’t hurt. I see a square bolt up top, which I assume is the fill plug, but where is the drain plug? Do you drain it by removing one of the snubber bushing bracket bolts?
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