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Looks like I just passed the point of fixing the original frame on my 67 conv driver with a 1970 350 motor. Does my one have experience with a Rolling Chassis from Corvette Correction or Street Shop?
Also, would it make any sense to put the 350 ( seams to run OK ) back in the new frame for a year or two or pull the trigger on a new LS ?
Unless you're going the resto-mod route, why not buy a new, stock frame for your '67 from Vette Products of Michigan. They have all the factory blueprints and their frames are perfect. And, a hell of a lot less money than the companies you mentioned. Just a thought.
Looks like I just passed the point of fixing the original frame on my 67 conv driver with a 1970 350 motor. Does my one have experience with a Rolling Chassis from Corvette Correction or Street Shop?
Also, would it make any sense to put the 350 ( seams to run OK ) back in the new frame for a year or two or pull the trigger on a new LS ?
if you’re going to just put in a normal small block Chevy why waste the money on a modern frame there are so many frames out there being taken out from under cars and putting good roadster shop chassis frames under them that you could pick one up pretty reasonable or you can buy a brand new frame for your car for under 6000 that is exactly like your original. If you’re going to go resto mod you have to go all the way to make the car worth doing.
Unless you're going the resto-mod route, why not buy a new, stock frame for your '67 from Vette Products of Michigan. They have all the factory blueprints and their frames are perfect. And, a hell of a lot less money than the companies you mentioned. Just a thought.
I considered a frame from Vette products but I would still have to deal with all the other components to make it a rolling chassis.
Why not, simply, R&R the suspension parts from your old '67 chassis. Replace/refurbish worn parts and all rubber bushings and you'll still be thousands of dollars ahead of the game.
Why not, simply, R&R the suspension parts from your old '67 chassis. Replace/refurbish worn parts and all rubber bushings and you'll still be thousands of dollars ahead of the game.
Right. Not to mention you are not going to get any of these things with a restomod frame.
I built a rolling chassis using a Vette Products frame and re-built/new stock components. Everything fit perfectly and worked like new and it was way, way cheaper than the restomod route; it performed like a new ‘65 car. It’s hard to beat an essentially new, stock, mid-year Corvette chassis when its in new condition.
It was fascinating walking around with Neil at Vette Products when I picked up my frame. Neil, at considerable risk, bought the C2 press dies and fixtures from GM when he left GM as a production engineer. His wife thot he was nuts. As you can imagine, the rails, I think, are the full length of the frame. I’ve posted in the past pictures of the weld jigs for welding all the rails, cross members and attachment brackets. But to add to this discussion, Neil was concerned at the time about continued C1 and C2 frame production due to him getting access to the monstrous presses required to form the rail C-sections (4 big stampings). He showed me his inventory of stampings but was concerned that the owners of the massive presses might stop feeling benevolent and allow him to slip in for a quick run. The dies are not reproductions, they’re GM. Seems like the weld fixtures may not be GM but per GM drawings. Thot it fascinating that every so many years Neil has to go beg for production time of very big and very rare presses to make stamped frame blanks. Something us hobbyists wouldn’t think about. Too bad he doesn’t drop in here once in a while. Who will replace Neil? FWIW, I took my frame and had it immersion dipped for corrosion protection. Was fascinating and cheap. My great great grandson (or grand daughter) hopefully will be thankful. Cheers Larry
There’s an acquaintance close by that bought a new frame for his 68 from Vette Products that was a complete, rolling, ready to go frame from memory. All lines were hung and run, all suspension components new/remanufactured and in place. Can’t remember about the fuel tank - this was about 15 years ago. All it lacked was the engine and transmission. From memory I want to say it cost him around $25,000 at the time.
It was an interesting project, when I first looked at the car earlier I thought it was a pretty rust free, original 427/435. He was the original owner and tracked it back down in the early 90s and bought it back. But he said it had rust in it and he didn’t want to repair it.
if you’re going to just put in a normal small block Chevy why waste the money on a modern frame there are so many frames out there being taken out from under cars and putting good roadster shop chassis frames under them that you could pick one up pretty reasonable or you can buy a brand new frame for your car for under 6000 that is exactly like your original. If you’re going to go resto mod you have to go all the way to make the car worth doing.
This is so true. If you buy an aftermarket frame, you have to put in the LS or LT and at least a TKX or T56 (preferably an 8 speed auto, this is what the market prefers) and then a professional interior and paint job and of course custom wheels. You'll have $150K to $200K in it and you would be able to sell it for an amount that is in the same ball park. Vette Products looks like a great option if you want to keep what you have. Then you can rebuild the suspension with all new components. You can even do the Ride Tech suspension for better handling and can always bring it back to original. Cost-wise, Corvette Correction will be comparable to getting an original frame, and will have a very solid C4 based suspension. Street Shop is a few thousand more for their C4-based product. These frames have new equipment and better handling compared to an original setup. I drove a Corvette Correction car, they are great. The problem is resale value. These frames are do not seem to be desirable for the resto mod market, but your car will be a resto-mod.
I just got a new frame from Vette Products of Michigan in 2021, just cuz it was easier thay having mine restored during covid. It was around $6000 painted and all, with a removeable crossmember added. everything fit perfectly, amd they are only about 20 minutes away from me, so quite convenient.
I looked into SRII, and Roadster shop, but I didn't want to dive into a full blown resto-mod, which I love, but my car is a bit too original for taking it that far, & I'd rather do that to a coupe.
I just got a new one from Vette Products of Michigan in 2021, it was around $6000 painted and all, with a removeable crossmember added. everything fit perfectly, amd they are only about 20 minutes away from me, so quite convenient.
I looked into SRII, and Roadster shop, but I didn't want to dive into a full blown resto-mod, which I love, but my car is a bit too original for taking it that far, & I'd rather do that to a coupe.
That frame looks fantastic, that is a great way to go. I'm getting pretty serious about the Roadster Shop/LS3/T56 route for my coupe. My biggest hesitation is the rear tub mods. I want to have at least some trunk space left for a couple of small weekend bags if I take the car for a weekend trip. If it eats up the whole space, I may scale back and fix up my frame and upgrade the suspension with front coilovers/discs and rear trailing arms with Heim joints and rear discs (64s have drums). I will talk a bit further with the Roadster Shop guys and maybe go up to see one of their cars.
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