[C2] 1963 Clutch Replace
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 372
From: Philadelphia PA
1963 Clutch Replace
Replacing clutch on 63. Never done one before but there are videos and I have the shop manual and can ask here if I run into something. Plan on doing it from underneath. Don’t really have the space to pull the engine.
Are there any parts that should be replaced when removing instead of reusing? I have new clutch kit, also purchased separate metal throw out bearing and bronze oil impregnated pilot bushing.
But what about flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts or any other bolts? Can they be reused or should new ones be used for torque purposes?
Also getting a new clutch fork boot since the other one is nonexistent/partially disintegrated.
For clutch fork boot I see just a normal one and gm reproduction which is more expensive. Not having the car judged so I guess no reason to go with gm reproduction unless it’s a better fitment.
Are there any parts that should be replaced when removing instead of reusing? I have new clutch kit, also purchased separate metal throw out bearing and bronze oil impregnated pilot bushing.
But what about flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts or any other bolts? Can they be reused or should new ones be used for torque purposes?
Also getting a new clutch fork boot since the other one is nonexistent/partially disintegrated.
For clutch fork boot I see just a normal one and gm reproduction which is more expensive. Not having the car judged so I guess no reason to go with gm reproduction unless it’s a better fitment.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,529
Likes: 1,965
From: Temple Terrace Florida
I would have the assembly balanced. Also check the ring gear on the flywheel and replace the gear if suspect. Lastly, it is a bit easier to replace the rear main engine seal when everything is apart. I have done it with the flywheel out and through the bottom through the oil pan and it's a bit easier with the flywheel out. Since the driveshaft has to come out, check the U joints and replace if they show signs of significant wear. Jerry
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,342
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From: Close to DC
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Very good advice! Look for traces of rust at the u-joint seal, also move it around with your hand, if you feel roughness the motion, replace it. 
Dennis
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 316
From: Western NY
Just went through this on my 66. Yes I did spring for new ARP flywheel and clutch pressure plate bolts. Check your brass pilot bushing with a magnet, some have iron dust incorporated into it. The one I pulled out of mine stuck to a magnet. Ordered my bearing from Auto Gear Equipment in Syracuse NY. Fit fairly easily using a bearing tool. I also replaced all the transmission mount bolts because that just what I do, use anti seize on those (Not the ARP bolts, follow their instructions on the flywheel and clutch bolts). I replaced the rubber transmission mount isolator and the fork boot (ZIP) too. I used a dial indicator to measure my bellhousing run out, had 0.012 and the max spec for a Muncie is 0.010 so I replaced the dowel pins (mine came out with about 5 taps of a hammer on a drift pin) with RobbMC 0.007 offset pins and got the runout down to 0.006. Try and find a Muncie input shaft to set the clutch, it fit the pilot bushing fairly snug vs the plastic tool that had noticeable slop to it. Between the input shaft and the offset dowels, my muncie went back in effortlessly and it's all in spec with new hardware. While my driveshaft was out I had the universals replaces with new Spicer permanently lubed joints, no more zerk's on that component now.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 372
From: Philadelphia PA
When you say assembly balanced, you mean what exactly? Give the flywheel (post any resurfacing) and the new pressure plate to a shop and they put it on a test engine and balance them together?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 311
From: St. Petersburg FL
However...if you did replace the PP again in the future, you'd want to balance that again right? Then you'd be back where you were. So, I don't think there is a ton of value in doing two steps. I think balancing the assembly is fine. I also prefer just having the flywheel drilled for adjustment, with no drilling, grinding, or welding on the pressure plate.
