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C4 rear suspension on c1 does anyone have a picture of smart strut rods on there c1 corvette.Trying to figure out witch way the bracket goes to put the rods on.Thanks for any help.Bob
I am not sure what smart strut rods are, but here is a picture of the C4 suspension I grafted to a '62 frame. If you are talking about the spindle control rods (aka "dog bones"), I have a better picture and one with measurements if that would help.
Charles
I am not sure what smart strut rods are, but here is a picture of the C4 suspension I grafted to a '62 frame. If you are talking about the spindle control rods (aka "dog bones"), I have a better picture and one with measurements if that would help.
Charles
My memory of them, Charles, is that they were revised differential brackets with provisions for adjusting the heights of the inboard pivot points for the camber rods and a set of Heim-jointed camber rods. They might have been made by Vette Brakes, but don't quote me.
I don't think the differential bracket could be installed wrong so I'm not clear on what Bob is asking for.
Jim:
On the stock C4 rear suspension the outer tie rod ends are on top of the arm on the suspension knuckle and the inner tie rod ends are above the two bolts that hold the mounting bracket. When you put the C4 rear suspension into a C1 frame you have to mount the tie rods on the bottom of the suspension knuckle (see my picture in post #7), and even then you have to cut a slot in the frame to clear the tie rod end. In my case I made a bracket to lower the inboard tie rod ends to keep the rear geometry correct. You are correct in that the stock rear bracket cannot be installed incorrectly. A picture would help.
Charles
Jim:
On the stock C4 rear suspension the outer tie rod ends are on top of the arm on the suspension knuckle and the inner tie rod ends are above the two bolts that hold the mounting bracket. When you put the C4 rear suspension into a C1 frame you have to mount the tie rods on the bottom of the suspension knuckle (see my picture in post #7), and even then you have to cut a slot in the frame to clear the tie rod end. In my case I made a bracket to lower the inboard tie rod ends to keep the rear geometry correct. You are correct in that the stock rear bracket cannot be installed incorrectly. A picture would help.
Charles
Charles,
You are referring to the rear steering rods and I'm referring to the camber control rods. The Smart Struts which I remember were for the camber rods. And, yep, Bob W. needs to post pictures.
Jim
Charles,
You are referring to the rear steering rods and I'm referring to the camber control rods. The Smart Struts which I remember were for the camber rods. And, yep, Bob W. needs to post pictures.
Jim
You are correct. Senior moment for me.
What would be the reason for changing the height of the camber rods?
Charles
Charles,
You are referring to the rear steering rods and I'm referring to the camber control rods. The Smart Struts which I remember were for the camber rods. And, yep, Bob W. needs to post pictures.
Jim
You are correct. Senior moment for me.
What would be the reason for changing the height on the camber rods?
Charles
You are correct. Senior moment for me.
What would be the reason for changing the height of the camber rods?
Charles
One reason to lower the inboard pivot point would be to reduce the amount of camber change in jounce. That's important when running very wide tires to keep the full footprint of the tire in contact with the road. That's my layman's understanding. There are probably also arguments which could be made which involve roll-center heights, but I've never wrapped my mind around those concepts.