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What does this pull switch above my emergency brake handle do? Looks like it might be hazard blinker system. Anyway, it's not working. I am pulling the gauge cluster to fix odometer trip meter, install some L.E.D. bulbs, replace the speedo cable, service the tack cable and general clean up. What is the best lube for the tack cable, I plan to remove the center drive from the outer sleeve and clean it all really good and reassemble it. Thanks all Big-K
If it helps, here's pics of mine, from my '66 3/4 ton truck. Note there is a bulb inside. As Keith says, it will illuminate when the flashers are blinking.
Big-K - That's the V74 Hazard Flasher option available in 1966. I like the idea of being able to light up all four corners if need be. I believe it was a dealer installed option.
I've added it to my midyears. Pics
attached. If it's not functioning, check to see if the orange wire is connected at the fuse block.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
With regard to your second question in your original post . . . The best lubrication for your tachometer cable would be kable-ease. Others may have alternate opinions, but this is what many of us use to lubricate both the tach and speedometer cables. I have attached a picture for your reference. Good Luck with your winter projects. C.J.
Be advised several members on here say to go easy on the lube, and be sure to let it drain out of the sleeve before reassembling. There is a tendency for any excess to work its way up the cable and into the tach, the speedometer or whatever, causing problems.
I am now installing the restored dash cluster assembly and needed to position it so I could do all the hook ups needed. I find it a heavy unite to hang on bolts from the mounting holes of the dash. This is working out well and I have room to get on my back under the dash to put all the stuff back in place. I did not have time to complete the hook ups today but plan to get back at it Monday. I plan to test everything before final install and mounting. I need to hook up the column wires to test the turn signals too. Big-K
If the zip tie method makes it difficult to seat the cluster, consider using four, four inch, 1/4-20 carriage bolts to suspend the cluster while you work on it. Once all connections are made, slide the cluster in place and remove the bolts one at a time and replace with the factory screws. Looks great. Post a picture when complete. Jerry
The cluster puts a lot of stress on the on the dash bolting tabs hanging out on the bolts. My method allows the cluster more access to the back and zero stress on the bolting tabs while connecting everything and pulling and pushing lamps in place and such. After everything is tested and ready, I will add the 4" long guide bolts, cut the zip tie and slide the cluster in place....(-: This project takes time and its better on the dash not to have the cluster hanging there from the fragile bolting tabs. Thanks all Big-K
I am now installing the restored dash cluster assembly and needed to position it so I could do all the hook ups needed. I find it a heavy unite to hang on bolts from the mounting holes of the dash. This is working out well and I have room to get on my back under the dash to put all the stuff back in place. I did not have time to complete the hook ups today but plan to get back at it Monday. I plan to test everything before final install and mounting. I need to hook up the column wires to test the turn signals too. Big-K
If it stays in that contraption to long it is going to put a dent in the pad and they don't come out
Well, it's on the bolts, only have some testing to do and make sure all the gauges work and such before bolting it in....(-: Column is also ready. Big-K
Yes in the olden days they were installed so you have emergency blinker, start all cars having them.
Winter projects
