I've got a friend that's very interested in a 58. What should he be looking for as far as the frame or anything else that would rust? Any and all help will be appreciated.

Thank you!

 

Google on "Bird Cage Rust" go to you tube and do the same.
A frame can be dealt with in several ways. A rusted bird cage ,ON ANY LEVEL, is a deal breaker .
Eddie
'62

 

My 1958 has an aluminum birdcage, so you should be OK with that.

 

Didn't know a C1 even had a birdcage. However, check the frame for rust, or places that may have been welded or repaired if that is a concern. You can look behind the kick panels and up under the dash for any suspicious rust. Check even more carefully if the frame has been coated over with any kind of thick material. You can see most of the rust possibilities on a C1, it's not sealed in fiberglass around the windshield and cowl like a C2

Check this out for some very helpful pictures:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...bird-cage.html

 

No "birdcage" on a C1. Link posted by 65GGvert is perfect. Rad support, frame at the rear wheel kickup as well as the rear crossmember are all "first look" places. Great pics in the link.

Tom

 

Kick ups, rad support, battery tray and rear cross members.

 

On a test drive, while rolling slowly, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and note whether there is a feeling of notchyness or lumpiness as you turn the wheel. If there is, most likely the sector roller is pitted/damaged and the steering box needs to be rebuilt.

 

In addition to what other members have mentioned:

• Title/VIN (there are legitimate reasons for variations for these, but you need to know them going in and have a confirmed solution for any and all issues BEFORE purchase)
  • Validate the VIN by checking the frame stamp under the driver's seat. My post here shows how. This will also be a good way to assess any frame rust.
  • Make sure the frame stamp and driver's door pillar VIN tag match and that the tag is correct and attached correctly (Philips screws)
  • Verify the title is clean and transferable
    • Check the NMVTIS database to see if the title information is on file
    • Verify with the state of seller's title everything is in order
    • Verify with state of buyer's title that the car will meet all requirements
• Hidden fiberglass damage. Many old repairs are poorly done, you need to inspect under the car in common crash locations like front, back and all 4 corners.
• If originality is important get an NCRS guide and check all the parts and identifying features like engine, transmission, rear end, etc. numbers
  • If you not experienced in this it is best to find either a professional expert to inspect the car, or at least contact you local NCRS chapter to see if a member is willing to look the car over for you.
• If it will be a driver and originality is not important standard used-car stuff applies
  • Check fluids and for leaks
  • Make sure all electric items are working
  • Locks, windows, top, heater, vent, etc.
  • Steering and ride quality
  • Driveline slack
  • Transmission function
  • Engine compression test
  • Maintenance history

Most any problems identified from inspecting can be fixed. It is however important to now what they are in advance in order to fairly value the car and know what you are getting into.

Good Luck!

Charles

 

Lots of good advise here.. The "Frankie the Fink" post in the linked thread shows the potential problem areas very clearly.

 

If your friend is not moderately familiar with the early Corvettes (53-62)------------------------------- HE NEEDS TO LOCATE A BUDDY WHO KNOWS A FAIR AMOUNT ABOUT THESE CARS AND TAKE HIM TO GO ALONG AND LOOK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

56 and “early” 57 had no support structure
under the cowl/dash/door pillar area. Quite
prone to sagging etc. I know from experience.
Decades ago. Made some makeshift repairs
so the driver door wouldn’t virtually fall off.
It was a beater so it was not a real issue like
it would be today for building a nice car.
Later I had 57 with support and you could see the difference in the body by walking by.
I dont know of any remedy but Im sure there are experts who can advise. I am currently
negotiating on an early 57 thats gonna need some attention so if any one can chime in
it would helpful for others in the same situation.
Good hunting!

 

Unless you write all this down he is not going to remember it all especially since some advice here doesn't pertain to a 58. Take DZAUTO'S advice and fiend someone with knowledge of C1's. Check your local Corvette club or ask if someone here on the forum can go with him

 

Thanks everyone for the help and advise. I'll let him read your comments so he can educate himself before he goes to check it out.

 

Most of us fall in love with a car and overlook the defects and problems which later become expensive issues. I had a friend that had to have a C5 and bought a beautiful black on black for reasonable money. I tried to sway him away, but he bought it anyway. His father was a mechanic, but he hated to get greasy. He rarely drove it as the electronics were a constant challenge. I worked on it a couple of times to fix computer related problems. When the anti-lock brakes failed, he wouldn't let me tear into the board to investigate and repair a know cold solder joint. GM quit making the board and he wasn't comfortable driving it with the ABS light on.

A knowledgeable friend is good, but even better is to pay a few hundred dollars to get a NCRS type inspector to look at it before buying. Could save thousands in repairs and aggravation.

 

When I brought my --hopefuly- 62 into the club for an evaluation many of the guys had already owned several C1's and we all inspected the frame very closely and no one found any problems. The several weeks after I had owned it a member gave me an issue of Muscle Cars that had an article about a Cascade Green 60----neat article but also in there was an article about "So you want to buy a vintage Corvette" there was a quite "If gthe frame is rusty you can deal with that. If the bird cage has rust RUN, do not walk away." There were sever pictures of bird cage rust as well as an explanation of exactly where to look on C1's and C2's. It also explained that the C2 was particularly vulnerable to this. So, I guess, according to this really fine article, there is some sort of Bird Cage.

This article scared me to death because I already oened the car. It also kept me away all night, could not sleep. Could not bring myself to tell my wife what I had read. Finally after two weeks I finally got up the courage to crawl under the dash and into the places the article recommended---poked around and Voila----solid as a rock. I almost passed out from relief.
I was VERY,VERY lucky.
I still have this issue and would happily scan and send a pdf to anyone who would like it---pm me.
The Youtube clip of the Sting Ray was absolutely nauseating. The car LOOKED absolutely Pristine until the started poking----what a mess.

Eddie
I would post it here but I dont really think it would be appropriate or legal.

 

I have a 2012 Ford Expedition that has an aluminum tail gate---I just this week repainted it because the aluminum underneath the pain corroded so badly that the paint bubbled in several spots.
Aluminum may not RUST but it certainly will corrode----ask any sailor with an aluminum mast or aluminum hull----that can be its own nightmare.
Rust, corrosion----call it what you will---it's still BAD!
Eddie

 

I realize this is a off the OP's topic but since you asked...
I have a 56 donor car for my 57 clone restomod. My original plan was to get a reproduction body that has the mid-57 upgrade cowl structure. Unfortunately, the body is "temporarily out of production" with no forecast return date.
If I have to repair/restore my 56 body I will install the bracing which is mostly available. I may have to fabricate some pieces if I can't get them. The bracing install is significant and while possible, would likely not be worth it on a finished, assembled, painted car. If the body is dissembled and requires other significant repairs like mine, then adding the bracing is just one more step. See this thread on my body. Post #16 has a working parts list. Also this thread and this one on reinforcing an old cowl/dash.

Charles