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[C2] PPG vs. RM auto paint

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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 05:25 PM
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Default PPG vs. RM auto paint

IS PPG paint reliable and suitable vs. RM paint for a C-2 metallic paint job. Specifically Marina Blue Metallic Paint.
Would appreciate any feedback. RM seems to be twice as expensive as PPG paint products.
Thanks
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gbarone07
IS PPG paint reliable and suitable vs. RM paint for a C-2 metallic paint job. Specifically Marina Blue Metallic Paint.
Would appreciate any feedback. RM seems to be twice as expensive as PPG paint products.
Thanks
PPG has been around since the beginning of automotive paint was developed. There is certainly nothing wrong with it.
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 06:38 PM
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If you’re worried about the appearance of the metallic - that may be more a function of the paint technician who mixes it and the size and amount of mettalic content he selects. And they have several lines of paint to chose from. I would be surprised if their more expensive lines are much less than RM.
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 07:45 PM
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RM is twice PPG?!? I just painted mine with all PPG stuff and holy cow. DBC and DCU2021 was nearly a grand each for a gallon.

What line of PPG are you using pricing?
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 69L48Z27
RM is twice PPG?!? I just painted mine with all PPG stuff and holy cow. DBC and DCU2021 was nearly a grand each for a gallon.

What line of PPG are you using pricing?
My best advise is to go with the paint system the shop is accustomed to using. In my case that's Glasurit urethane which I understand is a top shelf brand. However I tend to think any mainstream, legitimate system that others are not complaining about will yield top shelf results. Refinishing is more an art of knowledge, experience, technique and desire than it is material brand chemistry. I would spend more on labor than I would on a top brand.

Dan
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 08:54 PM
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They are both good paints and should be competitively priced assuming your talking about PPG DBC and RM Diamont... both solvent bases paints.
DBC is an older technology (acrylic) which uses a binder to convert it to a basecoat (it was originally formulated as a single stage only) and now converted to basecoat

RM is an old name (Rinshed Mason) and just a label added to Diamont which was a European paint brought to the states in the early 80s by BASF to penetrate a market Glasurit couldn't... Diamont is a polyester based paint never designed to be a single stage so its a bit more stable with less additives (no balancers or binders) as a basecoat and a touch more stable with the metallic patterns but both are good paints and both have excellent urethane clears in the high solid content (over 50%) and both should last 10 plus years with enough film build (3 mils plus) dry film build with enough UV absorbers.
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dplotkin
My best advise is to go with the paint system the shop is accustomed to using. In my case that's Glasurit urethane which I understand is a top shelf brand. However I tend to think any mainstream, legitimate system that others are not complaining about will yield top shelf results. Refinishing is more an art of knowledge, experience, technique and desire than it is material brand chemistry. I would spend more on labor than I would on a top brand.

Dan
absolutely agree, any mainstream good collision center paint will give the same results if its applied correctly, its all about prep and substraight.

As someone who tought OEM certification for BASF for 16 years I also agree Glasurit is the best but I am definitely bias ;-)

Stay away from the low end stuff and stay with BASF (Diamont or Glasurit), PPG DBC, AKZO Nobel Sikkens or Lesonal, Axalta or Spies Hecker... all great products when used right... if we move into water bourn it's another conversation.

And as far as cost in above paints... I track dozens of financial numbers for collision centers and dealerships, when it comes to tracking paint only cost per paint labor hour for all the above paint systems they range from $26-$30 per refinish hour so not a big difference, there is a reason your quoted a "double" price and not sure what that is.

Last edited by Golfobsessed; Dec 5, 2022 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Golfobsessed
They are both good paints and should be competitively priced assuming your talking about PPG DBC and RM Diamont... both solvent bases paints.
DBC is an older technology (acrylic) which uses a binder to convert it to a basecoat (it was originally formulated as a single stage only) and now converted to basecoat

RM is an old name (Rinshed Mason) and just a label added to Diamont which was a European paint brought to the states in the early 80s by BASF to penetrate a market Glasurit couldn't... Diamont is a polyester based paint never designed to be a single stage so its a bit more stable with less additives (no balancers or binders) as a basecoat and a touch more stable with the metallic patterns but both are good paints and both have excellent urethane clears in the high solid content (over 50%) and both should last 10 plus years with enough film build (3 mils plus) dry film build with enough UV absorbers.



And therein lies the broblem with BC/CC paint. I would NEVER use anything other than single stage urethane enamel paint on one of these old cars. The only reason the clear coat will last that long is because these cars are garaged all the time and see the sunlight for minimal time. Single stage enamel spots in like lacquer and can be buffed to look like it AND it is WAY less expensive. I see so many BC/ CC paint jobs with orange peel in the color coat and it will be there forever. You see it on new cars all the time so people have come to expect it but not ME.
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 68hemi


And therein lies the broblem with BC/CC paint. I would NEVER use anything other than single stage urethane enamel paint on one of these old cars. The only reason the clear coat will last that long is because these cars are garaged all the time and see the sunlight for minimal time. Single stage enamel spots in like lacquer and can be buffed to look like it AND it is WAY less expensive. I see so many BC/ CC paint jobs with orange peel in the color coat and it will be there forever. You see it on new cars all the time so people have come to expect it but not ME.
Always like a nice single stage black, will always look richer over BC/CC but a wetsanded and buffed single stage metallic color looks terrible
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 09:50 PM
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You can’t wet-sand and buff single stage metallic. The flake is in the color coat hence it being single stage.
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JD'S WHITE 93
You can’t wet-sand and buff single stage metallic. The flake is in the color coat hence it being single stage.
correct... well you can wetsand and buff it but it looks like ***
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Old Dec 6, 2022 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Golfobsessed
Always like a nice single stage black, will always look richer over BC/CC but a wetsanded and buffed single stage metallic color looks terrible
I struggled with this during the below 2007 build. Chrysler used Acrylic Enamel in 1961. I wanted to achieve high reflectivity without looking greasy as I find two stage black often appears. Below is 2007 single stage Glasurit urethane. The quality is a result of the prep and sanding. There was much of that. Far more than this lowly Plymouth had at birth. Again, skilled craftsman know how to duplicate mid century finishes using paint sold today. Focus on the work done and not the paint brand. (That is my daughter's reflection in the rear quarter).

Dan







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Old Dec 6, 2022 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by dplotkin
I struggled with this during the below 2007 build. Chrysler used Acrylic Enamel in 1961. I wanted to achieve high reflectivity without looking greasy as I find two stage black often appears. Below is 2007 single stage Glasurit urethane. The quality is a result of the prep and sanding. There was much of that. Far more than this lowly Plymouth had at birth. Again, skilled craftsman know how to duplicate mid century finishes using paint sold today. Focus on the work done and not the paint brand. (That is my daughter's reflection in the rear quarter).

Dan





beautiful... definitely urethane over acrylic and for me the only way to paint black.. clear will always micro scratch white which gives a milky look after a few washes, black micro scratches black and always looks black.
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Old Dec 6, 2022 | 11:48 AM
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PPG products are top of the line. I worked for them some time ago and have used their stuff for years w/o issues. Company started as Pittsburgh Plate Glass Company in 1883.
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Old Dec 6, 2022 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dplotkin
My best advise is to go with the paint system the shop is accustomed to using. In my case that's Glasurit urethane which I understand is a top shelf brand. However I tend to think any mainstream, legitimate system that others are not complaining about will yield top shelf results. Refinishing is more an art of knowledge, experience, technique and desire than it is material brand chemistry. I would spend more on labor than I would on a top brand.

Dan
there is your best advice. Don’t take your painter out of his comfort zone. Most paints today are pretty comparable and from my experience as a sales rep for Axalta / DuPot for 30 years everybody’s paint has someone’s technology inside the cam.

I just completed a total restoration on the 59 and I paid for the slightly higher than bargain bands but it was worth it as seen below






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Old Dec 6, 2022 | 05:10 PM
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Nice restoration.
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Old Dec 6, 2022 | 07:34 PM
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My 58 Plymouth PPG base coat clear coat
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Old Dec 7, 2022 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JD'S WHITE 93

My 58 Plymouth PPG base coat clear coat
There's two of us. I wish folks here could try your 58 Plymouth, it was so far ahead of its time in handling, every police department in the nation wanted them.

Dan
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