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Todays challenge. 1965 sbc 327/300 oil filter.
I want to eliminate the canister oil filter. The block does not accept the later bypass adapter, doesn’t sit flat and bolts are to big.
I have looked at the adapter that is 2 piece with the bypass in the upper part and than the 2 piece lower that has the center pipe for the screw on for the filter. There is a large hole in the block that appears to line up with the upper adapter for the bypass . This configuration seems to have a lot of potential for leaks.
I have also seen an adapter with no bypass and you use a filter with a built in bypass, but not sure it will work because of large hole in block. (Picture)
My question is, are there any other options than the conventional 2 piece adapter conversion or is that what I’m forced to use?
Thanks
I started a thread on this subject over the summer. The two piece adapter you mentioned is from Mr. Gasket and uses the canister filter bypass valve plate from the factory. It's a bother to mount correctly and does indeed invite leaks.
The single piece unit you mentioned is PermaCool number 1134. It doesn't have a filter bypass. The bypass is not needed, but ad you noted, there are spin on filters with internal bypass if it concerns you.
If Leif is using it, you can too! We only argue about light bulbs in the cluster.
Forgot to mention that the thread was started because I installed the PermaCool 1134 and found a gasket mess on the Mr. Gasket adapter I pulled out. NAPA Gold 1061 is the same filter as Wix 51061, if you're looking for it.
There is also Trans-dapt number 1324 but it looks really flimsy. The PermaCool adapter is a much better choice.
I started a thread on this subject over the summer. The two piece adapter you mentioned is from Mr. Gasket and uses the canister filter bypass valve plate from the factory. It's a bother to mount correctly and does indeed invite leaks.
The single piece unit you mentioned is PermaCool number 1134. It doesn't have a filter bypass. The bypass is not needed, but ad you noted, there are spin on filters with internal bypass if it concerns you.
I'm not aware of other options.
Thanks, I have seen this on 67 Camaro, and race cars. Looks like a better option.
If Leif is using it, you can too! We only argue about light bulbs in the cluster.
Forgot to mention that the thread was started because I installed the PermaCool 1134 and found a gasket mess on the Mr. Gasket adapter I pulled out. NAPA Gold 1061 is the same filter as Wix 51061, if you're looking for it.
There is also Trans-dapt number 1324 but it looks really flimsy. The PermaCool adapter is a much better choice.
I will check out those filters, I think I will be using the Perma Cool unit.
Just a follow up: perma cool 1134 installed and fit perfectly. K&N filter is 3003, extra tall with by pass valve in the filter.
Thanks to all.
I think i will be swapping to the Perma-Cool 1134 as well just for convenience. Since it deletes the by-pass valve i will more than likely use a filter that has one built in. I have always used WIX Canister filters for my L79 but unfortunately the WIX 51060 spin on does not have the by-pass valve but it does have the anti-drain back valve. I will probably be using the K&N HP-3002, HP-3003 or Baldwin B279 which have both. Good thing about the K&N is filtration is 10 Microns.
For my 327/300 I use the WIX 51069 which is same specs except slightly shorter than the 51061. Prior owner had installed the spin on adapter and was using the NAPA Gold equivalent to the 51069, hence I have continued to use the 51069 ever since. Just to provide another filter option for this thread.
Also, not sure the real value of the anti-drain back valve in this application because the oil filter is positioned on a vertical plane unlike some engines where the filter sits horizontally to the ground.
Last edited by boxster99t; Dec 19, 2022 at 12:01 PM.
I agree, I’m not even sure of the need for the bypass valve, in the ones listed, in a hobby car that gets driven so little, but kinda extra insurance I guess.
In the FWIW department when it comes to an oil filter bypass......
I had a really nasty cam failure about 25 years ago. A lifter shattered (yes, shattered) and metal shavings from what was left of it after that just about filled up the oil pan. Got it all cleaned up, replaced the pan, got the new cam broken in and went on my way. Until a rod bearing failed a few weeks later. Turns out a whole bunch of metal particles got circulated through the oil right along with the cam failure. Blew right past the factory bypass valve. I plugged it off at the valve body.
So when the next cam failure took place (don't ask) a few years later, I pulled the motor to be sure there wasn't anything in the oil galleys. They were clean.
Never again with a filter bypass. Never. I'll take my chances keeping an eye the oil pressure gauge, thank you.
Old Guy Question
