I am thinking about changing my manual door locks to electric. Does anyone know who makes a conversion kit?

 

Not exactly door "locks", but I installed door "poppers" in my '59 when I first built it. Not a kit. I installed some solenoids that had a remote unit so when a button on the remote was pressed, the doors would "pop" open. I shaved the door handles, but found out later that the rules under which I was planning to race required outside handles, so I had to re-install the handles.
Charles

 

Dakota Digital and others make universal kits.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....prod/prd92.htm

Universal Car Door Lock 4PCS,Geevorks 12V Door Lock Actuator Keyless Entry System with 2 Remote Controller (Remote 50-80m),Central Control Locking Kit with Trunk Release Button https://a.co/d/0uZKQTh

I am not aware of any kits specifically made for C1 Corvettes. I plan to put them in my 56, but that’s a few months off. I will post details of how I do mine after I’m done.

Charles

 

Which kit is the best option? The one with the actuators or the other one with the solenoids.

 

Door locks use the actuators which both push and pull. The solenoids are pull only and intended for latches.

 

What year corvette are you doing this on?.... M

 

are you saying that the solenoids open latches?

 

Hi Charles... If you remember, where did you mount your solenoids and what part of the latch mechanism did you attach the solenoid cable to.... thx... M

 

In general, solenoids can also be used to open hood and trunk latches... That's why you can get sets with 4 channel remotes... 2 for doors, 1 for hood and 1 for trunk... M

 

I really want to do the hood. I'm going to try and find out how to wire it.

 

Yes, the "solenoids" are only for latches. The "actuators" can do both locks and light duty latches.

Both the "solenoids" and "actuators" referenced in the kits meet the electrical definition of a solenoid:

"A solenoid is a device comprised of a coil of wire, the housing and a moveable plunger (armature). When an electrical current is introduced, a magnetic field forms around the coil which draws the plunger in. More simply, a solenoid converts electrical energy into mechanical work."

However, the ones called "solenoids" in the kits only operate electrically in one direction (pull), and rely on a spring to move back to the rest position. The ones called "actuators" operate electrically in both the push and pull directions by reversing the polarity. That way they can both lock and unlock via remote.
DD Solenoid Instructions
DD Actuator Instructions

For additional information, "door poppers" are non-electrical spring loaded plungers that "pop" the door open when the solenoid operates the latch. This is needed for shaved (removed) door handles since you are not pulling on the door when the latch is released by the solenoid.

If you are doing a C1 see the diagram below:
The lock actuator would need to operate ROD 3724119 in the diagram below.
The latch solenoid would need to operate ROD 3724118

 

What model Corvette are you working on?

 

A 61... Adam's post is very good... Door opening/closing and door lock/unlock are two separate systems, similar to using the key to open the lock and the door handle button to open the door... I plan to eliminate the door locking function and only use the door opening function... The locking feature is, in my opinion, not needed if you remove (shave) the handles.... Also my understanding is that the door will open and close without the use of "Door Poppers"... To open the doors on a C1 you have to pull on a part of the latch mechanism that releases the star wheel, one of such Adam pointed out as rod 3724120, to which the interior door handle is connected... Initially I planned to use this but ran into problems mounting the solenoid... Still working on exactly how to do this... I know Charles Bernhardt, who responded to your thread, had to install a pulley for the cable between the run from the solenoid to the latch... Some connection points are complicated due the window which prevents running the cable across its path... Also due the the orientation of the door lock mechanism, you might have to pull rather then push the attachment point... In combination with solenoid placement it becomes a puzzle which we will solve... I have my doors apart so I have been studying the situation... Hopefully Charles or someone who has done this will chime...

 

The hood may be quite a challenge since there are two release latches. It will require custom cable and bracket work to combine both into one for the solenoid to pull on. Or perhaps you could adapt a reproduction hood pull cable to have the solenoid pull it. Or even use two solenoids. Is it really worth it, or are you looking for the novelty of having an electric hood release?

Hi Mark,
I have not done anything with regards to the doors on my 56/57 yet. My post was simply based on analyzing the AIM diagram. Although there are minor differences in the parts, I think all 56-62 door mechanisms function the same.

I do not plan to shave the door handles on my 56. I did that to a few early Impalas in the 70s when I was young. Always a hassle when they would fail. The good quality parts do look a lot better now. Finding a place for the solenoid is always a challenge. It looked to me that attaching to the lever on the CONTROL ASSY. 3723509/10 would be a good start, but there may not be any way to avoid the window in that location. If Charles B. already figured it out, for sure take his advice over mine.

I am planning to add remote electric door lock actuators. Hoping they will fit in-line below ROD 3724119. There are smaller actuators available from other sources, but I will try to make the universal ones work first.

Side note: The cheap universal actuators will probably only last a few years. The automatic locking bolts on my garage doors use the same part and they both failed after about 5 years. The plastic housings were either glued or heat welded together and they separated allowing the guts to jam. New ones cost me $12 for two on Amazon. I will use the cheap ones to develop my design then probably use the $40 DD units with their lifetime warranty for the final install.

Charles A.

 

have you tried installing one of these on a C1?

 

answering Adam, I just want to do this. I am going to try and find a way to use a single latch.

 

Here are the only pictures that I have of the solenoid that used to "pop" the doors open on my '59. There was a small pulley at the top so that the cable was pulling on the latch when the solenoid was actuated.