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Hello my '63 frame end caps are crusty, in the event I pull the body I am wondering about a rest-mod type approach. Is there a "gold standard" frame manufacturer that would dramatically increase handling & braking?
There's a company in Michigan that makes new frames using the original GM tooling. Sorry, can't remember the name. Would be a whole lot easier and cheaper going this route and unless you plan on doing some serious autocrossing, not sure you'd ever notice the difference to a restomod frame.
There are a bunch of chassis hitting the market with the folks doing restomods - cheaper than a new repro, just get one that is straight and dip or blast and powdercoat.
Also if you go restomod, plan on hacking up the rear floor to accommodate the restomod frames on the market . I'm not sure if there are any out there that do not require body rear floor mods.
There are a bunch of chassis hitting the market with the folks doing restomods - cheaper than a new repro, just get one that is straight and dip or blast and powdercoat.
Also if you go restomod, plan on hacking up the rear floor to accommodate the restomod frames on the market . I'm not sure if there are any out there that do not require body rear floor mods.
There are. Street Shop is one. The benefit of other aftermarket chassis designed for performance is that your engine sits about two inches lower in the chassis, lowering your drive train and your center of gravity. Along with better rigidity. Suspension options are pretty much unlimited for later model upgrades. SRIII has built in pads for roll cage structure attachment points.
Lots of tried and true suggestions listed above.
What does it always come down to?
Desired performance and budget.
Here's hoping your choice comes under budget and exceeds your expectations.
mspell,
I recommend you consider whether or not you really want to do all that comes with an aftermarket chassis. I have done it, at home, pretty much by myself (a little help sometimes from my wife). Its not really hard if you're the kind of person who can pull the body off anyway, you can do it. Keep in mind, with the chassis with all components you'll easily have $25k in it. You will have to modify the rear floor area (not really "hacking" it) to accommodate the wider tires and new rear end components (it is not hard, you cut per directions and use SMC adhesive to glue in the new fender wells). You'll also have to get all new wheels (custom will likely be about $1000 a wheel), the tires (most aftermarket frame and brake set-ups have a minimum of a 18" rim). And keep in mind "mission creep"...with it all apart you will find things that need to be addressed. If you simply need to replace your existing chassis, Vette Products of Michigan might be the most economical way to do it and it won't require everything else to be new. It's been a while since I talked to them, but it seems a new complete frame, with shipping was under $9k.
Anyway, here is a picture of my SRIII frame, for consideration (it was about $24k as it sits, it was ordered with full C6 suspension and ZL1 rear end): [threw in the truck it was off loaded from, just for kicks].
Interesting on the wheel options...the car has the 15" Kelsey knockoffs that I love. With most aftermarket chassis requiring 18" wheels that would be a deal killer.
mspell,
regarding the wheels, I'm no authority, just conveying my experience. Maybe there's a chassis out that there that will allow for, if you have smaller rotors and brakes, 15" wheels, but I haven't seen anyone do it. You could go with a replacement frame or repairs to you existing one and add some suspension upgrades and the car will handle and drive better than original...