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I am using my original 300 h.p. oil pan on my new 383 engine as I have power steering and can’t use a larger pan. This pan has a sheet metal type “enclosure” around the oil pump and I have purchased a Windage tray. Should I cut the original sheet metal enclosure out of the pan?
NO need to do that.
Also, do you have the flat or curved windage tray?
If you are using the Chevrolet style studs for a Chevrolet style windage tray and an oil pan (NON-windage tray style pan) that has the flat baffle spot welded in the pan, here is what I have done to several engines. Worked great.
With the studs installed, place the pan onto the engine. Loosely install bolts at the 4 corners. The flat baffle in the pan will contact the front studs, and also may contact the middle studs. Put pressure down on the pan. Wiggle the pan around VIGOROUSLY. This will make scratches on the flat baffle. Remove the pan and drill holes where the scratches are. Make the holes large enough to clear the nuts which attach the windage tray to the studs. Do a test fit of the pan to assure the studs fit in the holes and that the pan will make full contact on the pan rails of the block. "Adjust" the holes if needed.
I've probably done this to 5-6 pans on cars that will not clear the big pan, with excellent results.
Interesting any chance you have a pic of it/enclosure? It sounds like it may help with oil slosh under hard braking, cornering, acceleration with that 383:-)?
Different windage tray studs for early and later engines, for clearance shorter stoke, 350 stroke..
My guess, the rod bolts will hit the flat tray. I think Moroso sells one for strokers.
You are EXACTLY correct. take a look at this flat windage tray, The "adjustments" to the tray are what I l did MANY years ago tor rod clearance in a SB400. Again, after the adjustment to the tray, ZERO issues.
I have never had to do any adjustments to a curved windage tray when installed in a SB400, except slightly slot the holes for the studs.
01-30-2023, 11:27 AM
300 h.p. Oil pan and Windage tray
