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I am need of a engine stand. I bought a complete 1965 327 motor that has been rebuilt. It may be some time before I actually use the motor but need to have it stored on a solid movable stand. I think a two leg type stand is better than the T type stands. Who has the best price on them? Thanks all Big-K
Some 2x8’s and heavy casters you can make your own
With the price of lumber now days and by the time you buy the casters you'll spend over $100. Lol
IMHO These are best for storage. You can work on the front or rear of the engine without interference and they roll easily on the shop floor. $80 at Summit
A couple of years back I got the Harbor Freight one to rebuild my small block and liked it. $100 or $80 if you can come up with one of their 20% coupons.
I would add, if you value your well-being, stay away or modify the 3 leg/caster engine stand. After 2-3 experiences of the engine trying to fall over due to the long, single leg caster not rotating. I either scrap a 3 legger or weld another tube so that there are 4 casters. IMHO
C Ya, JM Rock
Frankenstein 59
With the price of lumber now days and by the time you buy the casters you'll spend over $100. Lol
IMHO These are best for storage. You can work on the front or rear of the engine without interference and they roll easily on the shop floor. $80 at Summit
This is the stand I'm using for storage and test stand. I had to saw off one of the "wings" on the mounting flange to allow the fuel pump to be mounted. (See reviews) You can also mount the starter on the engine with no interference. The wheels are pretty sturdy.
I would add, if you value your well-being, stay away or modify the 3 leg/caster engine stand. After 2-3 experiences of the engine trying to fall over due to the long, single leg caster not rotating. I either scrap a 3 legger or weld another tube so that there are 4 casters. IMHO
C Ya, JM Rock
Frankenstein 59
I have always been uneasy with the lack of support provided by the engine stands that attach only to the motor mount bosses. These stands place a high cantilever (twisting) load on the motor mount bosses that were not designed for that type of load, and whole arrangement looks a bit unstable.
My preferred stand is this four-legged version. The only drawback is that the two rear supports bolt to the block at the bellhousing flange, so you can't install a bellhousing unless you modify the attachment points.
I have always been uneasy with the lack of support provided by the engine stands that attach only to the motor mount bosses. These stands place a high cantilever (twisting) load on the motor mount bosses that were not designed for that type of load, and whole arrangement looks a bit unstable.
I agree with your reasoning completely, Joe. Those side mount stands look awful. My concerns match yours exactly.
However.....
I have a pair of those dreadful things. Out of necessity once, I had them support a 350 SBC with full clutch, bellhousing, and a Super T10 hanging off the back. It wasn't unstable. There was no tendency for the engine to tip over backwards. And the side mount bosses on the block didn't break.
Thanks for all the replies. I ordered a jegs side mount motor stand on casters to store my motor till ready for the swap-out. I just bought a complete 1965 327 out of a rag top corvette. The motor has not been decked so I hope the numbers are under the heavy orange paint. Motor is a fresh rebuild, standard bearings and cylinder walls, lapped the valves, all was in good spec so they did not cut anything. Set up for pump gas, 650 holly DP. 350-400 HP estimated. I plan to remove my original correct motor/trans and use this motor with my new tremic 5 speed. I have everything to make a complete swap and not steel parts from my original motor and trans set up. I want to save and fresh up the numbers matching motor/trans set up for later. Thanks all Big-K
I agree with your reasoning completely, Joe. Those side mount stands look awful. My concerns match yours exactly.
However.....
I have a pair of those dreadful things. Out of necessity once, I had them support a 350 SBC with full clutch, bellhousing, and a Super T10 hanging off the back. It wasn't unstable. There was no tendency for the engine to tip over backwards. And the side mount bosses on the block didn't break.
I was amazed.
I have two of the 4-post version, and I really like them. To allow me to mount a bellhousing and transmission, I modified one of them so it could be configured to support the engine without using the bellhousing flange. The support surfaces are the two "wings" that come out at the starter and oil filter. I designed the modification so that the configuration could be easily reversed to the original configuration.
This allowed me to check the runout on the bellhousing and then attach the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and TKO 5-speed on the stand prior to installing the assembly in my car. Here is a photo of the reversible configuration:
A combo of wood and steel works. If you plan on long, heavy engines you need a longer leg than many store bought units have. Also need 4 casters. The common, US made wheel caster units make good roll around bases. In photo the wife and I could move both body and engine unit independently. Also 2 hoists instead of a travel bar.
I have always been uneasy with the lack of support provided by the engine stands that attach only to the motor mount bosses. These stands place a high cantilever (twisting) load on the motor mount bosses that were not designed for that type of load, and whole arrangement looks a bit unstable.
My preferred stand is this four-legged version. The only drawback is that the two rear supports bolt to the block at the bellhousing flange, so you can't install a bellhousing unless you modify the attachment points.
I have a pair of the $49.99 ones. They work very well.
I have always been uneasy with the lack of support provided by the engine stands that attach only to the motor mount bosses. These stands place a high cantilever (twisting) load on the motor mount bosses that were not designed for that type of load, and whole arrangement looks a bit unstable.
The side mounts put a lot less load than the bosses get engine in car and banging gears. Let alone the guys than run solid mounts.
Not gonna break or get distorted.
I like the 4 post wheeled storage cradles too.
Last edited by Vega$Vette; Feb 4, 2023 at 09:48 PM.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by vetteman64
I would add, if you value your well-being, stay away or modify the 3 leg/caster engine stand. After 2-3 experiences of the engine trying to fall over due to the long, single leg caster not rotating. I either scrap a 3 legger or weld another tube so that there are 4 casters. IMHO
C Ya, JM Rock
Frankenstein 59
Agree with this. They are very tippy. As soon as I finish my 327 I'm getting rid of my old cheap-assed 3 leg stand, and replacing it with a four legged one. I do like the rotating head on both of them, though for engine building.
The side mounts put a lot less load than the bosses get engine in car and banging gears. Let alone the guys than run solid mounts.
Not gonna break or get distorted.
I like the 4 post wheeled storage cradles too.
It's worth noting that in the designed-for application, the motor mount bosses are designed to withstand applied forces that are perpendicular to the side of the block, and axial for the three bosses. Under hard acceleration, the engine tries to lift off the driver side mount, and it compresses the passenger mount. The applied force is either trying to pull the bosses straight out, or push them straight in.
In the cantilever configuration of the 2-post engine stand, the force is at a right angle to the axis of the bosses. The load is trying to twist the bosses off the side of the engine. This is a very different type of load that the bosses were not designed to handle.
While I'm not sure what the ultimate strength of the bosses is for this cantilever load, I'm pretty sure it is somewhat less than the designed-for axial load. I think the strength is likely adequate for a bare block, but my sense is that is marginal for a fully assembled engine, and even more marginal for a complete engine/transmission assembly.
The other factor that makes me conservative about the cantilever load is the consequence of cracking or fracturing the motor mount boss area. In most cases, such damage would ruin the block. If something is unlikely but has catastrophic consequences, I try to avoid taking the risk.
For people who want to use one of these two-post stands for a complete engine or, worse yet, and engine/trans assembly, I would suggest adding a third support point behind the oil pan. The legs that the castors attach to appear long enough to support the added part. The third support could be something simple that is just wedged in to support the back of the engine.
Yeah I think I just bought one off of Jeg's or Summit to transport my L76 engine home from the engine builders. After of course making him take the paint off of my t-stat housing, dammit!! Lol
Last edited by Rob_64-365; Feb 5, 2023 at 10:07 PM.
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Engine stands....best one?
I agree with your reasoning completely, Joe. Those side mount stands look awful. My concerns match yours exactly.
