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freshly rebuilt 327. Hard starting - timing hard to adjust because of the Fuelie distributor. Any special way to adj timing??? Engine has crisp throttle acceleration. Timing needs to be retarded a little. Any ideas ?? It’s a pain to raise and reposition the distributor. Suggestions . Thanks
It isn't necessary to reposition the whole distributor and it shouldn't be possible to do so. There should be an orientation pin on the adapter plate and a corresponding notch in the base of the distributor which is there to prevent the distributor from being rotated and which assures proper alignment of the drive cable.
The distributor is made in two pieces. The lower piece houses the pump drive mechanism. The upper piece houses the ignition components. Adjusting timing is as simple as loosening the band clamp which ties the two sections together and rotating the upper section.
This is the screw that will loosen the clamp so you can turn the upper part of the distributor to reset your timing. As Jim has noted the lower section should not be allowed to move due to the pin in the lower adapter/manifold.
It isn't necessary to reposition the whole distributor and it shouldn't be possible to do so. There should be an orientation pin on the adapter plate and a corresponding notch in the base of the distributor which is there to prevent the distributor from being rotated and which assures proper alignment of the drive cable.
The distributor is made in two pieces. The lower piece houses the pump drive mechanism. The upper piece houses the ignition components. Adjusting timing is as simple as loosening the band clamp which ties the two sections together and rotating the upper section.
Originally Posted by plaidside
This is the screw that will loosen the clamp so you can turn the upper part of the distributor to reset your timing. As Jim has noted the lower section should not be allowed to move due to the pin in the lower adapter/manifold.
You guys are incredible! That's going the extra mile to explain it and provide pictures too!
Love the education I get from you guys, as well as other forum contributors!
I don't see how cold starting is possible at all without a pre-heating tube coming out of your left exhaust manifold, and no functional choke..
Unless you're running an electric choke and just have it disassembled for some reason?
I don't see how cold starting is possible at all without a pre-heating tube coming out of your left exhaust manifold, and no functional choke..
Unless you're running an electric choke and just have it disassembled for some reason?
I thought the exact same thing when I saw that photo, I found this tool/set-up very helpful with that band clamp just a good tweak to loosen it is all it took me & same for when I tightened it, bugger of a spot on my 65 Unit the first time.
This tool helped me.
I think I p/u those 1/4” drive speed/knurled palm tools from amazon if memory serves me correct. After the initial break loose with the ratchet I then can loosen it with just that little speedy/knurled deal & the same for tightening & then use the 1/4” for final tightening (just a tweak dont want to break that clamp).. Good Luck appreciate your humility.. I know u been around cars a long time, but that distributor had me in a fog as well at times, not to mention that F.I. unit still does:-).. Chalie
After you loosen the clamp and rotate the distributor, if you still can’t seem to get the timing right, because the vacuum can rotates into the plenum, its possible your distributor is half a tooth off. To solve that, you will have to pull the distributor.
I don't see how cold starting is possible at all without a pre-heating tube coming out of your left exhaust manifold, and no functional choke..
Unless you're running an electric choke and just have it disassembled for some reason?
In the photo what's missing is the "choke pull off" and the hot air tube. Their purpose, if present, is to gradually turn off the choke as the engine warms up.
As shown, the choke likely won't turn on. This would have a minor effect on cold starting, but it's not a show stopper.
Since his left side exhaust manifold isn't drilled for a heat tube, the use of an electric pull off would be a good choice.
Agree with Jim. I’m running headers on my engine so got hold of an electric choke. Not all chokes rotate the same direction.(ask me how I know!).
Anyhow found an elect. choke for a 2 barrel Rochester.
Bolted right up and works fine.
Also with headers on my 64, I'm running an electric choke.. My car won't start cold without it..
If your '64 FI is a 7380 model, it has a starting fuel bypass mechanism which is completely independent of any choke mechanism. Your engine should start even if everything inside the FI unit is fubar. It won't run, mind you, but it will start.
The car was purchased with a 350, FI and headers. Was converted to elec choke previously. The elec choke inop and a new neat coil is in the mail.
many parts of the FI unit were missing and exhausting effort underway in an attempt find all the parts. Thank for your input
Last edited by Joe Inama; Mar 4, 2023 at 10:38 AM.
Reason: Spelling
I have an electric choke but I don’t believe it has enough throw. Could one of you guys give me a source or part number for yours? Also, the direction of the coil may not be correct for your application, but with some patience, you can pull the coil and flip it over.
I have an electric choke but I don’t believe it has enough throw. Could one of you guys give me a source or part number for yours? Also, the direction of the coil may not be correct for your application, but with some patience, you can pull the coil and flip it over.
63 FI help
