[C1] Hood release cable replacement





As I stated in my Concours post, the handle pulled off my hood release cable on my '61.
I actually have a new one on the shelf, as I knew this was a ticking time bomb.
I did a deep search but can't find the answer: How the hell do you get the large (15/16) nut that holds the cable handle to the bracket?
There is no room to get a wrench of any sort onto it and turn.
After 63 years, it's quite stuck on there.. so I will need to apply a large force.
I suspect I need to remove the bracket... but that also holds the parking brake cable/tube as well.
Any tips are much appreicated!
Fred
I understand completely. I recently removed mine and I was lucky enough to get it , the 15/16”nut to turn. It was tight. But now I need to install and tighten the new one. I am going to make a 15/16” flare nut wrench. I have a box wrench 🔧 I intend to sacrifice to the Dremel wafer wheel gods and cut a slot that will fit over the Bowden cables and permit me to use the wrench, it’s a 12 point. Hopefully this will work. I’ve done it before on a smaller nut. Now if someone here comes up with a better way I’m sure gonna listen.
You are correct about the parking brake and when you get the two fasteners that hold the bracket loose you’ll find very limited movement and might need to take the firewall bracket loose and then the e brake cable in the engine compartment………. Subscribed!
Drive em safe
Leo
When I cut a box wrench for a similar purpose it spread and became useless. Yes it was a cheap wrench but purpose built is better.





1) I pulled the old cables in through the firewall.. Once inside, I was able to slip my 15/16 box end wrench over them and up to the nut. How cleaver am I? Except -- NO DICE! With such a large wrench and little space, it's no help. Not only is there inadequate room to move the wrench, the parking brake is so close to the nut that it won't fit onto the nut. So no need to cut up your tools or spend $$ on custom ones!
2) With a shot of WD40 and a bunch or wrangling with plyers and vice grips, I was able to get the nut off and remove the old cable. (Thanks Bob!)
3) Placing the new cable in was easy.. however, it tends to 'bind' in weird places. Once I got it situated, the handle was UPSIDE DOWN! Oh man. Eventually had to take it all the way out and start again. Those Bowden cables act like springs.. you have to try to keep them straight as long as possible.
4) Routing the passenger side is a pain in the a$$. I ALMOST removed the package tray and blower motor to do it. They are completely in the way. But I eventually was able to get it through the firewall on the correct path.
Take good photos of the routing of the cables before you removed the old ones. It does a dance with the cowl vent and defroster hose.
I dug through both the AIM and ST-12.... Neither had much help on this.
Good luck,
Fred
Congrats on your new cable install. I understand don’t sacrifice a wrench. Thank you for that it is appreciated. Thank you for following through with your thread and sharing the information you gained, many times that doesn’t happen.
Drive em safe
Leo








