When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Can I get a few pics from you guys with your header mounted plug wire setups please? Looking for options for running the wires alongside the valve covers and how you hold them up and away from the header heat. Thanks...
MasterDave- I'd also like to see how everyone mounts them , mine are just floating free. The problem I have is that the cups for the sparkplugs rub against the headers and melt . Hopefully someone knows a type of plug wire or shielding to correct this . Then I can route them to where they look good too .
MasterDave- I'd also like to see how everyone mounts them , mine are just floating free. The problem I have is that the cups for the sparkplugs rub against the headers and melt . Hopefully someone knows a type of plug wire or shielding to correct this . Then I can route them to where they look good too .
There are some shorter plugs you can use. Might help some.
I use a 90 degree boot at the spark plug, this keeps them away from the header, with the plastic wire seperators. I don't use any type of looms. I'll see if I have any good pictures.
I use 90 degree boots on the plug ends with a good set that you have to cut and fit and run them underneath and out of sight. This works on both big block cars and those with smallblocks. Custom fit them yourself. This way the engines are easy to work on and a clean upper end without unsightly costly brackets in the way and wires all over the place. A picture would not work, as mine are out of sight. Clean and simple. :thumbs: :cheers: :D
Yeah, I've been looking at the R&M's for a few days now and cannot make up my mind. I like the routing under the headers idea and if I can find somewhere to secure them to the block will probably go that route. I'm assuming you just use the old shielding holes (two per side) on the block just below the heads right? What did you put there to hold the wires? :cheers:
They are either on the block or the original equipment GM clips that attach to the oil pan bolts. I forget which way, but I know the clips should be used to seperate the wires and keep them from moving around and getting burned. Keep them started out under the shielding from the distributor and go down the back of the engine to the clips and then to the plugs. Out of sight out of mind theory. :lol: :cheers: :thumbs: Plus it keeps the engine clean looking. :thumbs:
I tried running mine under the headers along the oil pan clips and up through the stock shielding, but if I remember right the headers I had were just too close to the block. I eventually ran them through some looms mounted along the valve cover. I also used the 90 degree boots with a set of wires I cut myself.
redctoo
i had problems with the boots on numbers 1 and 3. i think a 135 degree boot will help, and i will do that this summer. however, as an immediate fix, my speed shop sold me an asbestos tape. i cut a few inches off and wraped it around the two problem boots. i even used a thin piece of wire wrapped around the tape to be extra sure it did not come off of the boot. had no problems all of last summer. also the tape is great for soldering around gas lines [i was doing basement plumbing repairs and i had to sweat copper within 2 inches of the gas line. no problemo] i think the tape resists about 1400 degrees of radiant heat, which is more than adequate.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.