nutt

I have a bit of rust in these areas and I decided to fabricate the upper rear door piece myself and weld in place. A couple ways to go about this, either skip weld while using a heat shrink so I don't disturb any bond joints to the south of it, the rear door jamb panel that's held at the top with the two flat rivets. The other option is fabricate that entire piece and rebond and rivet it at that point. Not sure the procedure AO Smith used to bond at that point since I don't see any bonding agent, just the two rivets. Any advice is appreciated.

The second issue is some delam at the upper a-pillar and after peeling that out a bit, the cause is some surface rust which can easily be blasted and epoxied. Thinking I should create a patch of glass, then bond it to the prepped metal and finish off the glass work. I will peel as much out until I hit virgin metal. I am concerned about any delam in the future.

Big question is how much heat can these bonding joints take before I compromise them........I can get within an inch or so using the heat shrink and keeping the area hot to the touch for a few seconds, that's my thought on the yield point but not certain. Please advise.........

Pop Chevy

Why not use structural adhesive ? they hang car doors with the stuff.

Vettechallenger

If you are not already a member, join the NCRS so you can post technical questions on their discussion board. Members with all kinds of technical knowledge and experience are there to help.

silver837

Or you can get the same or better info here .

DansYellow66

There is a paint and body forum section if you haven’t visited it. It’s under General Corvette Topics.

vjjack04

Have you looked at the "Mid-year Mitch" you tube channel. He has some great info on fabricating bird cage areas. Here's on that might help you:
You could probably contact him, too.

nutt

Super excellent video! No, hadn't heard of him till now, but that's the info I needed. Seems they never attached that jamb fiberglass to the lower "foot" with anything but those 2 rivets and the fact he welded right next to the bond strip was proof enough that it's possible to keep the heat lower than the yield point. That's my biggest concern. The mud on the a-pillar is no issue really, just didn't know if that was factory applied. Mine has red paint on it, so I can be confident it was a factory blending. I'm not finding the rear door jamb rivets anywhere for sale, and I see plenty if not most, C2s with that area just mudded in. I'm not a fan of that,I like my stuff to appear factory untouched. I'll make sure to keep those intact and proud on display. Seems most restorers have mudded that seem between the fiberglass and "shoe" section of the door jamb also, not a fan of that either. Thanx for that link!!