When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is my first major project - the fuel line. In order to take care of that project I have another project - removal of the right rear trailing arm. This doesn't bother me that much since my right trailing arm is unrestored but does have a new spindle. Here are some basic questions -
1. If I put the shims back in the way they came out will I need a toe out/in alignment?
2. How do you get that pivot bolt out and back in? There is no room for a socket on eaitehr side. I suppose i could use two box wrenches but how do you torque it down when replacing it?
3. This side hasn't been off in a long time from the looks of things - what new hardware do you recommend?
4. I'm going to guess that the bushings are old and that the bearing is old as well. I've seen ads for rebuilt trailing arms/spindles from $200 to $800. I'm not interested in "correct" parts but do not want junk. What do you recommend?
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Allcoupedup)
Removing the bolt is sometimes a pain in the Royal. Remove the nut and washer and use a punch to drive it through. If it will not move , then you have a problem which will require cutting the bolt. This can be done with a torch (very carefully) or a sawsall. If you do not change the bushing, alignment should remain the same, but if you have to change the bushing, all bets are off. It should still be close, but should be checked. Tightnen the bolt untill the shims tighten up in the housing.
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Allcoupedup)
....well, some bad news first...if you are pulling one trailing arm, you should remove both and have them both redone - it costs me about $600 to have them rebuilt locally but i completely disassemble and restore the usable parts before i take them in..
that being said, the right (passenger side) trailing arms are usually the worst because of the years of debris thrown up there when the car is driven off onto the shoulder....you should ASSUME that the through bolt will not budge and you will need to cut it once on each side of the bushing - took me 12 sawzall blades and a solid day's work to cut my last one loose.....you SHOULD first try to loosen the bolt on it's own after soaking it for a few days with real pentrating oil (please remember dw-40 is NOT a good penetrant)...if you use a torch, you need to know that if you are not careful, you burn your car and house down - other than that :rolleyes: ........
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Allcoupedup)
I recently went through this removal. My friend and I were able to get the retaining nut off, then used a wrench to "unscrew" the bolt. There was just enough corrosion that the bolt wouldn't budge with or without weight on the arm.
The passenger side though required cutting. I used a sawzall with 9" blades and placed the cut between the bushing and the first shim. This cut very quickly, if you try to cut the rubber of the bushing, the blade will gum up and cutting will stop. Use a "fine" tooth blade. For reference, my first cut began cutting through the bushing and took about an hour and several blades, the second cut (between bushing and shim) took less than 5 minutes and I used one blade.
As others have suggested get stainless hardware and shims. The slotted shims are easier to use than the slotless shims. I used a pair of hemostats to help manuever the bolt into place.
As far as rebuilding the arms, its relatively easy but you need to make or buy specialized equipment to do it yourself. I am sure that you can get some good recommendations for rebuilders from the forum.
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Ed T)
...that reminds me...good point on the shims...buy the shims that have the hole, not the slot.....take a cut off wheel and cut a 45* slot in the shim, running from the hole towards the center of the shim.....allows you to drop the shim in while the new arm is loosely bolted in, pull it to lock it in and then the shim will NEVER drop out like a regularly slotted shim :D
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Kid_Again)
Excellant reading guy's......I will be removing both Arms and DIF in the begining of March in prep for BG trip.
Will see may we can get a quarm of "NJCC" at my place for some Saw's All action and a little beer....... We can see if we can break the record for droping trailing arms and the diff.. By the way..........who has the fastest "Ginnis" record???? ....Is there even one???? :cheers:
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Kid_Again)
...that reminds me...good point on the shims...buy the shims that have the hole, not the slot.....take a cut off wheel and cut a 45* slot in the shim, running from the hole towards the center of the shim.....allows you to drop the shim in while the new arm is loosely bolted in, pull it to lock it in and then the shim will NEVER drop out like a regularly slotted shim :D
Damn, thats a good idea! I will give it a whirl if I have shim problems.
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Viet Nam Vett)
....hey, VNV, where were you thinking about taking the t-arms?.....i'm dropping the '65 t-arms and am taking them to that place up on rt 206, you know, you know
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Kid_Again)
Quote*
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
hey, VNV, where were you thinking about taking the t-arms?.....i'm dropping the '65 t-arms and am taking them to that place up on rt 206, you know, you know
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok "Secret Squirrel" I Know the place in Mt Holy....is that it??
No, Mine are being sent away to another secret place. They ship you a box first to ship the arms back to them. The box is made just for "T" arms. I'm also sending my Diff to them for a rebuild...and they send you a box to ship that too.
If you don't tell anybody who it is I'll send you an email......Check your email in about 10 min........
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Viet Nam Vett)
...OK read the email...yeah, good place
...i dunno, same price as my "secret" place, drop em' off and pick em' up at my convenience and i drop my diffs off to YET another secret place which is in medford lakes, on the way to the OTHER secret place :skep:
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Re: Removing trailing arm.... some basic questions (Kid_Again)
Heh Kid..
I IM RAY Z and told him who I use and told him to contact you for your local guy.. but I see your at work and not doing anything but hanging out here
..... :lol: :lol:
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.