Is it me or am I reading these accelerator linkage adjustments incorrectly ??
The procedure in the AIM seems to be calling out to finally adjust by (add 2 turns on the swivel towards the carburetor which will shorten the rod)

The procedure in the shop manual is calling out to finally adjust by (add 2 turns on the swivel to to lengthen rod)
**Should I sleep on it:-).?**

Thanks
Chalie



Shorten rod?




Lengthen rod?

 

IMHO shorten or lengthen isn’t the question to start with. That depends on how the linkage was previously set (which may or may not be correct) What you want is for the carb butterfly’s to be just fully open (but not forced over center) when the accelerator pedal is fully at the end of its travel and on the floor .

For me the best way to accomplish this is to basically disconnect all the return springs and the carb side linkage from the fire wall side first so the linkage is loose. I have found it is good to have two people involved - a helper to sit in the car and the hold the pedal fully depressed ( AFTER every thing is loose ) and the primary person/ mechanic/ adjuster ( me on my car) under the hood and making the adjustments.

With the air cleaner removed and choke plate fully open, look down the throttle body and move the carb side of the linkage so that the throttle plates/ butterflys are vertical. Hold the carb side of the linkage in that position with one hand and with the other hand move the carb side of the linkage so that the two are adjacent. Holding them in that position with one hand , use a Sharpie or similar to mark across both parts of the linkage at 3 places. That will tell you the position to use when you reassemble things.

Now reconnect the carb side linkage with the pedal/ firewall side so that those marks line up. Double check the the pedal can be fully depressed and the throttle plates just vertical but not forced over center at this setting. Make any necessary final adjustments. If all is good reinstall the return springs and try it again,
if it all works smoothly without binding reinstall the air cleaner and enjoy!

 

The way I'd regard those technical manuals is that the AIM is for initial assembly and the chassis manual is for repair and service.

Could be from a serviceability or ease-of-access standpoint on a completed car vs a car being built, or the way replacement parts are provided to the shop. Who knows by this point. I've always found the GM chassis manuals aren't far wrong.

 

I think the point is to have the lever hard on the firewall be the stop point and not the carburetor so adjust two turns to lengthen the rod.

On a 63 car that's another issue, the lever bump out will not touch the firewall because it makes contact down below where it bolts to the pedal rod. I can't remember how many different levers were used over the five year period.

 

Appreciate the feed back, after I upgrading my 65 327/365 (O.E. Holley carb) to Rochester F.I. & took the car out for it’s first road run it seemed I would really have to push down on the accelerator pedal to get the same power I had with the carb.?

F.I. ran great just seemed I was always very close to the floor with the pedal (like I was running out of travel) with this F.I. set-up that’s when it dawned on me I could be way off with the linkage adjustment ? I kind of remember following the AIM, but could have had a senior moment:-)..

I’ll need to dig into this & verify further ?
Thanks
Chalie

 

FI? Woulda been nice to know that in the original post.

 

maybe I should up date the heading, just figured a lever off a unit carb or other shouldn’t matter, if u can lend more info please educate me?
thanks
Chalie

 

No big deal, but I wouldn’t have spent so much time explaining how to sync the carb with the accelerator pedal if I had known it is FI. WTH, pixels are cheap and I’m retired!

 

It was one heck of a reply:-) Seriously I appreciate it.. gotta be more specific in my old age, u think my kids would have finally had a breakthrough with there old Dad?..