[C2] Clutch replacement has issues
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 612
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From: Illinois
Clutch replacement has issues
1965 stock 327/350 4 speed Muncie just had the clutch replaced by a mechanic with a LUK. After 2 weeks of normal driving clutch is working fine with the exception of a spinning / scraping sound with foot off the clutch when idling in neutral.
the mechanic tried adjusting it, which didn't help. The flywheel was resurfaced during the clutch replacement. Also feel some slight vibration when depressing the clutch pedal at times.
Going back to the mechanic tomorrow. Any thoughts on what might have happened?
Thanks,
-John
the mechanic tried adjusting it, which didn't help. The flywheel was resurfaced during the clutch replacement. Also feel some slight vibration when depressing the clutch pedal at times.
Going back to the mechanic tomorrow. Any thoughts on what might have happened?
Thanks,
-John
Popular Reply
Sep 21, 2023, 05:37 AM
Safety Car
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,785
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Make sure the inspection plate in front of the bell housing is not hitting the spinning flywheel
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,478
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From: Really Central IL Illinois
Did your mechanic use the adjustable throw out (release) bearing? As I recall, I had to pre-adjust the bearing that came with the LUK kit. Just something to check along with correct installation of the bearing on the clutch fork.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 316
From: Western NY
If noise is only heard with your foot off the pedal and if there is a correct amount of free play in the linkage, would not the T/O bearing be sitting idle on the Muncie input shaft retainer? Would almost think what ever is spinning within the transmission while in neutral may be where it is coming from.
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 229
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From: Rochester, NY
I agree with tbarb here, where there is a chance the cover plate didn't get installed correctly, thereby touching the flywheel. Take it off and see if the noise is gone, then reinstall - paying attention to where it "engages" on the oil pan lip.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 612
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From: Illinois
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 612
Likes: 69
From: Illinois
This is definitely worth looking into. I let him know. Thanks
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 229
Likes: 59
From: Rochester, NY
When it is idling in neutral - foot off the pedal - and the noise is there; kneel down beside the car and use you hand to slowly depress the clutch pedal.
Did the noise change at all from the pedal all the way out - to where you can feel the TOB contacting the pressure plate (resistance)?
Did the noise change at all from the pedal all the way out - to where you can feel the TOB contacting the pressure plate (resistance)?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,478
Likes: 2,647
From: Really Central IL Illinois
A weak or broken spring on the clutch fork at the ball or a incorrectly installed throw-out (release) bearing may still be lightly touching the pressure plate even with an inch of free play at the pedal. An inch at the pedal pad is probably less than 1/4" of movement at the bell crank and then the loss at the clutch fork ratio from the rod to the centerline of the input shaft. It might be interesting to calculate the movement at the throw-out (release) bearing you actually get with 1 inch of free play in the pedal.
When you pull up on the pedal with the engine running, does the noise go away or change?
When you pull up on the pedal with the engine running, does the noise go away or change?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 612
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From: Illinois
Did the noise change at all from the pedal all the way out - to where you can feel the TOB contacting the pressure plate (resistance)?[/QUOTE]
solution: he replaced the throw out bearing with another type. He also tightened up the linkage and adjusted the Z bar. Feels and sounds perfect now.
Thank you all!!
solution: he replaced the throw out bearing with another type. He also tightened up the linkage and adjusted the Z bar. Feels and sounds perfect now.
Thank you all!!
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 316
From: Western NY
I just replaced my clutch with a Mcload unit and their adjustable T/O bearing as the flywheel they sold me was thinner than the iron one I removed, 2 years back. On mine, after adjusting the linkage for free play I can kneel aside the car, engine off, grab the clutch pedal in my hand and push until the bearing makes contact with the PP. There is an audible "clink" when it does that. That, I would think, confirms that there is no contact when the pedal is released, therefore it is not spinning when the motor is on. With that in mind I do not see how it can be making noise. If the inspection plate were contacting the back of the flywheel, it would be making noise constantly regardless of clutch position. Yours is not installed so it's not that. Still thinking it may be the Muncie.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 612
Likes: 69
From: Illinois
I just replaced my clutch with a Mcload unit and their adjustable T/O bearing as the flywheel they sold me was thinner than the iron one I removed, 2 years back. On mine, after adjusting the linkage for free play I can kneel aside the car, engine off, grab the clutch pedal in my hand and push until the bearing makes contact with the PP. There is an audible "clink" when it does that. That, I would think, confirms that there is no contact when the pedal is released, therefore it is not spinning when the motor is on. With that in mind I do not see how it can be making noise. If the inspection plate were contacting the back of the flywheel, it would be making noise constantly regardless of clutch position. Yours is not installed so it's not that. Still thinking it may be the Muncie.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 612
Likes: 69
From: Illinois
A weak or broken spring on the clutch fork at the ball or a incorrectly installed throw-out (release) bearing may still be lightly touching the pressure plate even with an inch of free play at the pedal. An inch at the pedal pad is probably less than 1/4" of movement at the bell crank and then the loss at the clutch fork ratio from the rod to the centerline of the input shaft. It might be interesting to calculate the movement at the throw-out (release) bearing you actually get with 1 inch of free play in the pedal.
When you pull up on the pedal with the engine running, does the noise go away or change?
When you pull up on the pedal with the engine running, does the noise go away or change?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 612
Likes: 69
From: Illinois
That's excellent advice, thank you for that. And thank you to everyone for responding to my questions. So much great information is being shared on these forums.