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OK, I try to stay out of truck talk on this forum. Most dont know a pogo stick from a fifth wheel. But, sometimes we would mate a alum wheel to a steel
wheel. We would use a plastic spacer between the wheels to prevent the crud from forming. A brass fitting with a plastic washer between the alum radiator and
the brass would do the same thing.
End of truck talk.
10-4
It would be helpful if all the recent people posting read the entire thread. GM has installed zincs in the heads of LS series engines for at least the last 12 years if not longer (I visually identified one in the passenger side head of a 2012 L99 I installed in my LR Defender, so I can only personally speak for that time period). Arguing whether they are required or not is a wasted exercise as the science has already proved that they are where there are large chunks of dissimilar metals. It is also worth noting that zinc doesn’t directly protect aluminum. It is more reactive to iron and is consumed first through galvanic corrosion thus indirectly protecting aluminum components. This thread was not started based on stock C2 engine configurations, but for those with aftermarket gizmos like aluminum radiators, heads, etc. At the end of the day and as always, research and then determine what works best for you.
I think you've mentioned the LS engines previously. So someone believes zinc is beneficial in some cooling system configurations. The second statement which I've highlighted is consistent with the electronegativity of aluminum being slightly more anodic than that of zinc, which suggests there is no benefit. So I don't quite understand the thinking behind the inclusion of zinc. I'd like for someone who knows chemistry better than I do to explain the science behind that.
The OP asked if a Brass drain is okay to use, and I say it IS because it has been done for decades without any problem. Why? I don't know but the use of brass valves in aftermarket aluminum radiators goes back to the sixties. I always wondered how the 61-62 Corvettes used an aluminum surge tank hard mounted with metal brackets to the exhaust manifold? They did it, no problem. I am not a metallurgist but I'm guesing that grounding has a major effect on this. Like when aluminum rivets used on metal brackets are just floating, un-grounded, you have major problems
The more I read the more confused I get.
So a question for all you guys.
Since my C2 with Dewitt radiator sits on rubber and is mounted to a fiberglass core support, should I run a ground strap from mounting bolt to the frame?
The more I read the more confused I get.
So a question for all you guys.
Since my C2 with Dewitt radiator sits on rubber and is mounted to a fiberglass core support, should I run a ground strap from mounting bolt to the frame?
NOOoooooooooooo! That rubber is there specifically to insulate the radiator from ground. You do NOT want to ground the radiator. If you do, you'll short out the "battery" which consists of the engine block, radiator, and antifreeze. You'll end up promoting corrosion.
I have a question for those in the know about G=05 Zerox antifreeze. I have a older (1998) Ford / New Holland 655E backhoe that calls for antifreeze with SCA (supplemental coolant additive, 5%) which I believe is nitrite to prevent cavitation around wet sleeved cylinders on diesel engines. I use the G=05 in both of my old Corvettes and would like to use it to drain and refill this engine. The G-05 plastic container say's good for H/D diesel engines but does not mention SCA additive.
Does the G-05 contain the SCA additive and am I correct that the SCA additive is actually nitrite? Can I use this in the engine.
The more I read the more confused I get.
So a question for all you guys.
Since my C2 with Dewitt radiator sits on rubber and is mounted to a fiberglass core support, should I run a ground strap from mounting bolt to the frame?
First I would do a check to see if you have any current in your coolant. Below is a nice write up on the procedure. If you have a high voltage problem I would try to find that before doing anything. CLICK HERE
As far as grounding an aluminum radiator goes, it won't hurt it. Many radiators (C1 Corvette, Early Camaro, etc) were flange mounted without any rubber or insulation and this doesn't change anything. Rubber cushions were NOT used to isolate the radiator, they were used to float the radiator and help prevent leaks from frame distortion. Grounding your radiator and using it as a ground are two different things. Some aftermarket aluminum radiator companies actually offer radiator ground straps as an accessorory. I know I you'll get different opinions on this however, I sold about 7000 flange mounted (grounded) aluminum radiators over the last 25 years and I saw no pattern of increase failure with this.
Here is a pic of the engine/tranny (L99/6L80) I removed from a 2012 Camaro and installed in my LR Defender. The red circle is the zinc location in the passenger head. I installed a temp sensor for the aftermarket gauge I used. I can’t recall if I replaced the zinc or if it is the bolt just behind the sensor (it had a head very similar to the one behind the sensor). I also included a pic of the gauge just for reference.
That combination can and will result in the gradual eroding of the water passages in the aluminum. No question about it.
Electronegativity of iron is 1.83V and that of aluminum is 1.61V. That makes a 0.22V battery which is shorted out. Corrosion is pretty much inevitable.
The Buick nailhead V8 (53-66) is an iron block using an aluminum water pump. Original pump bodies are almost always eaten up from electrolysis, front cover corrodes with it and then coolant in the crankcase. Only known problem these otherwise wonderful motors have. Kanter recently began making a cast iron pump body, I run one on a 60 Electra. (Aluminum pump shown)
The second statement which I've highlighted is consistent with the electronegativity of aluminum being slightly more anodic than that of zinc, which suggests there is no benefit. So I don't quite understand the thinking behind the inclusion of zinc. I'd like for someone who knows chemistry better than I do to explain the science behind that.
I do not understand the chemistry either, but I can tell you that on my catamaran the sacrificial zinc on the aluminum saildrive (attached to a cast iron engine) was eaten up and had to be replaced every two years and the aluminum saildrive was fine. This was in warm Caribbean ocean water so electrolysis was a major concern.
Wanted to put a bow on this thread (it is Christmas time, after all). Finally got around to draining the coolant from my DeWitts Restoration Radiator today...perfect weather. I had bought a new brass petcock in anticipation of having to replace the aluminum one in the radiator with the broken loose "T" handle. Once I removed the old petcock with a 9/16" wrench, I realized that there was nothing (functionally) wrong with it...it wasn't leaking. So, after draining and refilling with a 50/50 mixture of Zerex G05 and distilled water, I reused the aluminum petcock. Get a heck of a lot better drainage with that petcock completely removed.
Happy Holidays to all!!
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
