C2 trailing arm shims
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 784
Likes: 228
From: Salt Lake City
C2 trailing arm shims
I am reinstalling the trailing arms in my 67. There are no holes in the frame for the cotter pins that I believe are to make shim adjustments easier. I am not sure it is possible, but is it worth it to drill the holes? If so, I assume the align with the second big hole in the shims? Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,354
Likes: 2,726
From: Close to DC
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
The cotter pin was/is used by many of us only to make sure the slotted shims (C3) do not work their way out. It's you choice to drill or not. 
Dennis
Dennis
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 1,975
From: Temple Terrace Florida
The shims changed in about 69 or 70. The newer style shims make a tough job of aligning a bit easier. The newer style slip in as opposed to the pivot bolt going through them. If your car is not to be judged, consider using the newer style shims and drilling a hole to capture the shims at the bottom of the frame pocket. I drilled a hole and use a black zip tie to keep the shims in place. Works for me and my alignment guy. Jerry
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 951
From: Corpus Christi, TX
Get a set of 1963 "tongue" shape shims. The tip of the tongue rests below the lip on the frame opening so the shims can't work their way out. No holes needed.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/5820...CABEgJ81fD_BwE
https://www.corvettecentral.com/5820...CABEgJ81fD_BwE
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 784
Likes: 228
From: Salt Lake City
Jerry, once I learned it was a C3 thing, I searched for it and found what I needed. It is at a bit of an angle, but I was able to drill one side tonight, in just a few min. Should make the whole process easier. Particularly if I do the alignment myself. Thanks for your help.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 284
From: cary Il
[QUOTE=Nowhere Man;1607251101]Use the correct mid year shims and forget the latter C3 ones[/QUOTE
defiantly use the C3 shims and drill the holes, if you want them to stay in
besides, that's why they made the change, easier to install
defiantly use the C3 shims and drill the holes, if you want them to stay in
besides, that's why they made the change, easier to install
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 9,438
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
[QUOTE=LT-1 kid;1607252851]how many times do you plan on removing them? It's not that big of a deal to do it correctly the first time
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,939
Likes: 5,478
From: Richardson Texas
[QUOTE=Nowhere Man;1607252860]
I have to agree with Keith on this one. As much as most drive these cars (which isn't very much) doing a correct alignment may be a once in a lifetime preposition...barring any damage due to road conditions or accident.
I've written this before but I will do so again. Buy both the correct set of shims and a set of slotted shims. Find a competent alignment shop (harder to do than the alignment itself). Have them do the alignment using the slotted shims because it is "easier" for them, thus being less expensive for you. When you get the car home, count the number and thickness of each shim on each side of the trailing arms. Remove the trailing arm bolt, remove the slotted shims and replace with the correct shims with the holes in each end (same number and thickness as the slotted shims that you removed), reinsert the bolt and nut and tighten down, insert cotter key...and, you're done. Many miles of happy, trouble free driving without drilling holes in your chassis and worrying about slotted shims falling out...been there, done that.
JMHO, of course, but it works for me.
I've written this before but I will do so again. Buy both the correct set of shims and a set of slotted shims. Find a competent alignment shop (harder to do than the alignment itself). Have them do the alignment using the slotted shims because it is "easier" for them, thus being less expensive for you. When you get the car home, count the number and thickness of each shim on each side of the trailing arms. Remove the trailing arm bolt, remove the slotted shims and replace with the correct shims with the holes in each end (same number and thickness as the slotted shims that you removed), reinsert the bolt and nut and tighten down, insert cotter key...and, you're done. Many miles of happy, trouble free driving without drilling holes in your chassis and worrying about slotted shims falling out...been there, done that.
JMHO, of course, but it works for me.
